Wood Grain Demo
4
Comments
OK, let's get started. For this demo, I'm using a piece of white sheet styrene. The base color will be the same as I used on the LVG (and suggested by Wingnut), Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow. On my model I varied the shade, between sections of the fuselage exterior, by adding some XF-2 Flat White to the XF-59 in some areas, and also painting a few areas in XF-60 Dark Yellow. This was done in an attempt to give some variety to the finished look of the wood.
See Pic #4
First, I sprayed on a couple coats of the XF-59 base color using my trusty old Paasche H (the best airbrush there is for laying down solid coats of paint!). For this use, I thin my Tamiya paint about 50/50 with PPG's DTL 876 Acrylic Lacquer Thinner. This causes it to dry fairly quickly and makes for a tougher finish than when thinned with Tamiya's thinner. I've heard that Tamiya paint finishes tend to be delicate but about 30 minutes after I painted this test piece I tried scratching it with my fingernail. All I got were some shiny spots on the paint. I had to really gouge at it to remove any paint. Even at that, I allow the base color to cure overnight before applying the oil paints.
See Pic #5
See Pic #6
Now it's time for the fun part. I squeeze out a small amount of each of the oil paint colors onto a palette, which in my case is just scrap of aluminum foil placed on a plastic lid. I also put a few drops of the Drying Oil in the corner of the foil, or another little container, so I can mix tiny amounts in with the paint as I'm working. The Drying Oil will thin the paint so you want to use it sparingly.
See Pic #7
Next, using one of the wide brushes, I lay down a thick layer of the darkest color (Burnt Umber). It doesn’t have to be perfect, just a good, thick, even coverage.
See Pic #8
See Pic #9
Then I pick up brush loads of the other colors and blend them into the Burnt Umber to get some subtle variations in the shade.
See Pic #10
See Pic #11
See Pic #4
First, I sprayed on a couple coats of the XF-59 base color using my trusty old Paasche H (the best airbrush there is for laying down solid coats of paint!). For this use, I thin my Tamiya paint about 50/50 with PPG's DTL 876 Acrylic Lacquer Thinner. This causes it to dry fairly quickly and makes for a tougher finish than when thinned with Tamiya's thinner. I've heard that Tamiya paint finishes tend to be delicate but about 30 minutes after I painted this test piece I tried scratching it with my fingernail. All I got were some shiny spots on the paint. I had to really gouge at it to remove any paint. Even at that, I allow the base color to cure overnight before applying the oil paints.
See Pic #5
See Pic #6
Now it's time for the fun part. I squeeze out a small amount of each of the oil paint colors onto a palette, which in my case is just scrap of aluminum foil placed on a plastic lid. I also put a few drops of the Drying Oil in the corner of the foil, or another little container, so I can mix tiny amounts in with the paint as I'm working. The Drying Oil will thin the paint so you want to use it sparingly.
See Pic #7
Next, using one of the wide brushes, I lay down a thick layer of the darkest color (Burnt Umber). It doesn’t have to be perfect, just a good, thick, even coverage.
See Pic #8
See Pic #9
Then I pick up brush loads of the other colors and blend them into the Burnt Umber to get some subtle variations in the shade.
See Pic #10
See Pic #11
Comments
To simulate wood grain on Wingnuts planes artist oils are recommended. Many posts use Tamiya acrylics. Is there a problem using acrylic burnt umber and the other suggested colors? Thanks.
NOV 03, 2016 - 05:28 AM
No, there shouldn't be any problem, as long as the paints you're using are compatible with the undercoat. The benefit of using oils is that they won't lift off the acrylic undercoat but if you can make it work, then go with what you've got
NOV 03, 2016 - 09:24 PM
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