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Pre-Flight Check
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Sea Fury, Finished.
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,581 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 05:01 AM UTC
Here you go Ryan, finally finished it. This as been on the go for several years. It's a simple model and I can't honestly say why it's taken so long to complete. It is built out of the box, apart from the addition of an Airwaves PE interior, an improvement on the kit pit but not a lot can be seen. I also replaced the kit canopy with an airwaves vac-form, replaced the pitot tube with stainless steel tubing and had to scratch build the arrester hook cos I had lost the kit example. Some of you may remember me posting in progress shots of this, not a million miles from being finished. It has taken this long to clean all the gunk and residue from the masking which had been on for years Doh. It is painted with Xtracolour enamels and the decals are by Almark. I had to replace the roundels because the red centres were misaligned. The decals I used as replacements had seperate centres but were not opaque. So I had to mask off the white portions and give them a coat of white. Must admit I nearly gave up completely on this and I'm not entirely happy with it now. My normal area of interest is WWII but this is one good looking bird and it represents Lt Carmicheal's machine flying off HMS Ocean in August 1952 in which he shot down a Mig 15 during the Korean war. The kill mark is apparent, just forward of the cockpit. :-)





MAL
Thor
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: June 19, 2002
KitMaker: 190 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 05:13 AM UTC
Another amazing bird Mal!
It seems that every time i see one of your finished models, i've gotta search my jaw somewhere on the floor (hmmm, strange sentence, but you get my point).

How do you shade the panel lines? I've tried to do that myself on every kit i make, but the result differs. I always get shading on places i dont want a shade to be seen.

Dolf
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Joined: September 15, 2002
KitMaker: 8,985 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 06:41 AM UTC
absolutely fantastic you did a great photography job as well I might have to take airplane building a little more serious it's kind of a btwn diorama thing to me right now...i guess I just needa great inspitation lke this to motivate
WeWillHold
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 17, 2002
KitMaker: 2,314 posts
AeroScale: 82 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 06:48 AM UTC
Hold:

Would you please just publish your book, (with pics of course), as I've suggested in the past, ----so I can buy the thing???

Just another beautiful bird on your part.

ps: I keep asking---- but how do you finish them this fast, (and this good :-)??

Thanks for the pics

Steve aka WeWillHold
Favorisio
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United Kingdom
Joined: December 30, 2002
KitMaker: 277 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 07:00 AM UTC
Can't think of much new to say Mal, you've done it again :-) Another really nice looking plane. The weathering looks interesting, especially behind the exhausts (if that's the technical description).

Those panel lines, you always have them looking really clean, but would they be this dark in reality? Not criticising you understand, just curious. I'm sure if that's how you do them it must be right, everything else seems so realistic.

Well done mate.

Roger
TwistedFate
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 11, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 07:19 AM UTC
Mal, GET A JOB!!!! You are making us normal mortals look bad. I don't have a job and I still can't churn them out this fast and still have them look this good. Great job.
bison44
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Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 27, 2002
KitMaker: 471 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 08:42 AM UTC
The canopy looks good, you would never know it had masking on it for years. Is hard to believe that is a crappy old hobbycraft kit. You made it shine! Now to finish mine......
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,581 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 09:26 AM UTC
:-) Dolf

Quoted Text

How do you shade the panel lines? I've tried to do that myself on every kit i make, but the result differs. I always get shading on places i dont want a shade to be seen.


I posted this on another thread for a similar question. It's an email I sent to one of the other guys, sort of includes a bit of theory as well:
This is what I do but there are no rules in stone

Quoted Text

You are making the same mistake I, and I'm sure many others, make when we first try out the old wash technique. Not protecting the colour coats. If you paint with enamel paints, then use enamel thinner in your wash it will lift the paint. you need to protect your colour coats from the effect of the thinner. When I first encounted this problem I switched to artists watercolour paint for the wash. This solved the problem, but I wasn't able to get the effects that I wanted. The answer is to use a clear varnish of some type. Enamal varnish is no good, it will lift aswell. The answer is to use Klear (Future in America) floor polish, yep floor polish (it's great for canopies as well but thats another story). Here's what to do:
I'll start from after the colour coats are on, (My weathering process starts before then, if you are interested let me know).
1. Give the paint plenty of time to cure (dry properly), each manufacturers paint is different, so between 24 hours and a week. (Xtracolour definatly a week).
2. Remove all dust and particles.
3. Brush on a coat of Future. I use a soft 1/2- inch flat brush. Transfer the Future into a small container, I use a film canister. Dip in the brush and draw it over the edge of the canister, removing most of the Future, apply to the painted model. Gently does it, to much future, or being to aggressive will cause bubbles. These may build up at edges and detail anyway, if they do, dry out your brush on a paper tissue and touch it to the bubbles, or draw it through the bubbles to clear them. Future is self levelling and dries quickley. Clean your brush with plenty of water.
4. Apply a second coat of future. Wait at least 30 mins, I wait an hour for the first coat to dry.
5. Apply your decals. ( The first 2 coates of Future act as your gloss coat as well).
6. Apply a third coat of Future. This might not be necessary, depends on the decals.
WASH TIME:
First of all a few things to think about:
a. Colour of the wash. I would avoid black, to stark. I use a mix, depending on the camouflage colours, for example, a MK V Spitfire in Ocean Grey, Medium Sea Grey and Dark Green, I would use Madder brown, Black, Paines Grey and white, for the top surface with more white for the undersurface. These are artists oil paints. You can use enamel paints, experiment.
b. Thinner, any is fine, I use the cheapest white spirit I can find.
c. Consistency. Again experiment. My washes are relatively thick, because of what I'm trying to achieve. Basically you want very thin paint.
THIS IS WHAT YOU DO:
1. Mix the wash in a small container, I use caps off milk bottles.
2. Use smallish brush, dip it into the wash.
3. Touch the brush to a panel line and capillary action will draw the wash down the line. The same thing will happen around raised detail. Where it stops apply more wash.
4. When the thinner evaporates it leaves the colour in the recesses and around raised detail. There will be areas that don't have enough colour, you can reapply the wash. Areas like rudder and elevator hinges lines require more anyway (and probably a bit darker).
5. It's up to you when you wipe of the excess. If you don't leave it long enough you will wipe away the colour as well. I leave mine on for up to 24 hours or more.
6. Wiping off the excess. Take a lint free clothe, wrap it around your finger, dip it in clean thinner, dab off the excess thinner on another clothe. Wipe over the model, in the direction of the wind flow. As you wipe off the excess use a clean area of clothe, any stubborn areas use abit more thinners. In hard to reach areas use a cotton bud.
7. Apply the matt varnish of your choice.

There may be other issues that you need to think about, before, during or after the wash, to do with weathering but thats a different subject.

I think I've covered everything. Don't hesitate to contact me again, If I've not made sense or there is anything else you would like to know


As I said this was a reply to someone else, but if you want to discuss anything or take me up on the last paragraph, no problem.
blaster76 thanks, why not join in the Battle for Britain campaign? You would be surprised at my "studio"LOL.

WWH

Quoted Text

ps: I keep asking---- but how do you finish them this fast, (and this good ??


Basically Armorama and you guys and gals here have given me the inspiration to finish up all the models I had on the go when I joined. This Sea Fury, like I said has been nearly finished for years, plus I'm out of work and have plenty of time. I don't know about "this good" I can find alot wrong with them, but I am a bit of a perfectionist, which is probably why I never finished them. On the other hand I love posting the pics when they are finished, I welcome the chance to discuss them and my techniques, which is probably why I am now finishing them.

Roger

Quoted Text

Those panel lines, you always have them looking really clean, but would they be this dark in reality? Not criticising you understand, just curious. I'm sure if that's how you do them it must be right, everything else seems so realistic.


Lots of things can affect this, this panel lines are quite deep, so they retain a good depth of wash which helps to make it look dark, I never use straight black. In contrast the panel lines on my soon to be completed Bf109E-7 Trop, are shallow and under the paint and Klear, even though they are very thin, they have almost disapeared. This makes it very dificult to get the wash to stay put. So far I've had several goes at it and have had to try something different. But for this the 109 would have been done first. Hoping to post it Friday or Saturday. :-)
I don't know if the panel lines would be this dark, possibly not but then again this plane saw combat. One of the reasons for washing the panel lines, in my opinion is more about effect. It is impossible to replicate anything 100% accurately, what I aim for is something that; a, looks good, and b, is interesting, c would be realistic but thats sort of part of a and b. I mentioned earlier that I am a bit of a perfectionist, well that gets in the way of producing models hence, a and b. I could quite easily be a rivet counter, but in my experiance rivet counters don't finish models they just criticise the kit manufacturers for not including every rivet on the latest model. I hasten to add that detail freaks and rivet counters are not the same. I am a closet detail freak, but then the perfectionist jumps out.
Incedently the panel lines aren't quite so pronouncd in real life :-) and Roger just cos I do it don't make it right. If I feel it's important and/or I can check it out then I will do it, if not I rely on common sense and a knowledge of the military. The exhaust staining is as per the prototype. There is a piece of Bare metal foil layed down first, then light grey followed by a brown shade.

Tim
Thanks, all I can say then is you must try harder LOL
MAL
shermanfreak
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 24, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 03:20 PM UTC
Mal's manufacturing plant comes through with another fine finished product....super work.
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 04:21 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Mal, GET A JOB!!!! You are making us normal mortals look bad. I don't have a job and I still can't churn them out this fast and still have them look this good. Great job.



I say get a life, he is making us looked very bad. Let's gang up on him!!!!

But seriously nice nice looking plane AGAIN!!! Man, you are the King!
mj
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Illinois, United States
Joined: March 16, 2002
KitMaker: 1,331 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 04:32 PM UTC
Mal, I would die a happy man if I could come close, not exact, but close, to producing a bird like this. You have some high standards, that is apparent. But, when you are good, I guess that is acceptable. In the meantime, I am printing out pics of your prodigious output, and pinning them in front of my modeling table. They will provide inspiration to get my butt in gear. I still have no idea where the talent will come from, however. Keep posting pics of your projects, Mal, but man; you're killing me!!

Mike

SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, March 20, 2003 - 04:40 PM UTC
I have a question, anyone ever seen pic of Mal, I recently start to suspect he is an alien, no human can churn out good model so fast!!!!
penpen
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Hauts-de-Seine, France
Joined: April 11, 2002
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2003 - 12:04 AM UTC
hello Mal !
That's a great looking sea fury !
I still have difficulties with washes on armor and I hadn't dared get seriously to them pn planes... so your method will just come in very handy ! I should try it next week !
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,581 posts
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Posted: Friday, March 21, 2003 - 08:20 AM UTC
:-) Ryan

Quoted Text

The canopy looks good, you would never know it had masking on it for years. Is hard to believe that is a crappy old hobbycraft kit. You made it shine! Now to finish mine......


Thanks, i think I must have spent more time on the canopy, in the end, than the entire model. Used everytjing to get the residue off, then a couple of coats of Klear. Close up you can see a few imperfections but overall I'm quite pleased, If I had a second vac-formed canopy I would have used that.

Shermanfreak, Dave
Thanks

Mike

Quoted Text

Mal, I would die a happy man if I could come close, not exact, but close, to producing a bird like this. You have some high standards, that is apparent. But, when you are good, I guess that is acceptable. In the meantime, I am printing out pics of your prodigious output, and pinning them in front of my modeling table. They will provide inspiration to get my butt in gear. I still have no idea where the talent will come from, however. Keep posting pics of your projects, Mal, but man; you're killing me!!


Mike I'm flattered. I suppose it helps when you love the subject, one of the reasons I turned from the dark side. I've got a feature coming up about my Bf110G-2, where I try and give the lowdown on how I did it. Basically though if you can put a model together anybody can do what I do. Why don't you join one of the group builds, we can talk you through it if you like, take a look at the Spitfire group build that was started to help Roger (Favorisio) through his first aircraft build. Alternatively I'm more than willing to communicate via email or PM. :-)

penpen HHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWLLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!
Thanks. Remember if you try my method, and it turns out wrong. It wasn't my method LOL
Mal
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