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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Pfalz "silver grey"
rolf
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 07:29 AM UTC
Whats a good match for the Pfalz "silver grey". I paint primarily with enamels. Thanks.

Roy
CaptainA
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Indiana, United States
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,117 posts
AeroScale: 2,270 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 08:02 AM UTC
Are you doing the Roden Pfalz?
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 08:02 AM UTC
Greetings Roy;

I used Testors Model Master buffable Aluminum over all and then a flat Testors Dullcote. Two separate applications of the clear flat is good.

Then to replicate the actual metal areas I use clean airbrush thinner with a brush to remove the clear flat from only those areas. Then a semi gloss on the metal areas only.


rolf
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 11:48 AM UTC
I have the Roden Pfalz but have not built it yet. Actually this is for my first pfalz ever...a Glencoe (ex Aurora I believe) that took me about two hours to complete (last Friday night with the modeling buddies build) minus the painting and rigging. I figured I would use this as a test bed for painting and such. I want to build my Roden Pfalz as that of Ltn Werner Voss Jasta 10. I also have a couple of the Eduard Pfalz that I plan on doing in the future. Stephan, did you buff the aluminum paint after it dried? I really like your mount for Ltn Hohn. It looks great.

Roy
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, July 01, 2007 - 02:31 PM UTC
No buffing! Thats the secret. Lacquer based paint and lacquer based clear coat (Dullcote). Don't buff it, Wait until yo get to the metal parts ( that you removed the flat coat from.) Then buff and clear semi gloss. Their sealer is a little too glossy. (By the way 52 pieces of decal film to do Höhn's D.III)
rolf
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 04:04 AM UTC
O.k. Stephan I went with the MM buffable aluminum and after the first coat am certain that some kind of preping is neccessary. Every little nick and scratch is visable from ten miles away. Did you prime your kit before spraying the aluminum? I am glad that I am doing this all on a practice kit (old Aurora kit). Also what PSI do you spray it at. Mine was set to about 9 PSI and was still having some of it dry before hitiing the model (it may be the weather here right now, its very warm). Thanks.

Roy
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 06:40 AM UTC
Greetings Roy, I don't use primers as such. I check my union seems by shooting a dull coat over the sanded seams. I hold it up to the light to check and resand. When satisfied I give the whole fuselage a once over with a 1200 grit. Two thin coats of buffable aluminum from a spray can. One coat of Testors Model Master dullcote all from a spray can.
CaptainA
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Indiana, United States
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,117 posts
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Posted: Friday, July 13, 2007 - 08:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

(By the way 52 pieces of decal film to do Höhn's D.III)



Can you give us some more views of this aircraft? It looks great.
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 04:27 PM UTC
It is upcoming soon in another portfolio.
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