Hello all,
I pulled out the 1/72 Eduard Fokker F.1 profipack from my stash to start to build. Does anyone have any tips on how to paint the "streaked" paint appearance on the body and wings in this scale? Has anyone built this one yet and are there any tips for me?
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
1/72 Fokker F.1 & Dr.I camouflage
guitarlute101
West Virginia, United States
Joined: December 18, 2006
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Joined: December 18, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, July 04, 2007 - 02:51 PM UTC
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 03:27 PM UTC
Greetings guitarlute101;
(There are several steps so try this on a scrap piece of plastic first.)
From the factory production 318 Fokker Dr.I triplanes were all painted the same.
1. paint all the upper "fabric" surfaces a base colour similar to unbleached linen in acrylic. radome tan, french beige, antique white, dirty white, doped linen.
2. after it thoroughly dries spary a clear flat (lacquer0 over these surfaces.
3. Let dry thoroughly.
4. Use camouflage pigment Testors field drab , olive drab, etc by loading up a flat brush and then sqeeze most of it out. Use a sheet of copy paper and stroke the brush on it until you begin to get streaks. This is called dry brushing.
5. Now on each separate surface pull the brush over the surface from front to back on the wings or top to bottom on the fuselage sided. One direction only. do the ailerons, elevators separately from the wings. These items almost never have the same direction angle but were similar.
6. The angle on the wings was overlaping about two rib spaces from front to rear and as it came back this angle drifted to the left. / / / / / / like so.
7. Check photos of real aircraft.
8. The undersurfaces were lt. turqouis blue. Except for the panels / fields for the under surface wing crosses these were unpainted linen or clear doped linen to be precise.
9. all other cross fields were white. All production Fokker Dr.I triplanes left the factory with iron cross insignia.
10. All metal areas were painted in an oil based version of the fabric olive drab camouflage and was a bit more itense. These colours have been interpreted by various historians. Check your refernces. Struts were usually painted lt. turqouise blue similar to the undersurfaces.
(There are several steps so try this on a scrap piece of plastic first.)
From the factory production 318 Fokker Dr.I triplanes were all painted the same.
1. paint all the upper "fabric" surfaces a base colour similar to unbleached linen in acrylic. radome tan, french beige, antique white, dirty white, doped linen.
2. after it thoroughly dries spary a clear flat (lacquer0 over these surfaces.
3. Let dry thoroughly.
4. Use camouflage pigment Testors field drab , olive drab, etc by loading up a flat brush and then sqeeze most of it out. Use a sheet of copy paper and stroke the brush on it until you begin to get streaks. This is called dry brushing.
5. Now on each separate surface pull the brush over the surface from front to back on the wings or top to bottom on the fuselage sided. One direction only. do the ailerons, elevators separately from the wings. These items almost never have the same direction angle but were similar.
6. The angle on the wings was overlaping about two rib spaces from front to rear and as it came back this angle drifted to the left. / / / / / / like so.
7. Check photos of real aircraft.
8. The undersurfaces were lt. turqouis blue. Except for the panels / fields for the under surface wing crosses these were unpainted linen or clear doped linen to be precise.
9. all other cross fields were white. All production Fokker Dr.I triplanes left the factory with iron cross insignia.
10. All metal areas were painted in an oil based version of the fabric olive drab camouflage and was a bit more itense. These colours have been interpreted by various historians. Check your refernces. Struts were usually painted lt. turqouise blue similar to the undersurfaces.
guitarlute101
West Virginia, United States
Joined: December 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,121 posts
AeroScale: 1,063 posts
Joined: December 18, 2006
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AeroScale: 1,063 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 04:49 PM UTC
Thank you, Stephen. I can't wait to try this. I'll let everyone know how it turns out and/or post pics if possible.
Mark
Mark
rolf
Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 05, 2007 - 05:48 PM UTC
Stephan although you mentioned production Dr.Is Mark asked about the F1. I thought I read somewhere that all F1s left the factory with the light Blue-Grey overall and then streaked with the olive over the top. I am working on a Dr.I so Stephans tips will come in quite handy. Thanks.
Roy
Roy
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Posted: Friday, July 06, 2007 - 06:42 AM UTC
Though somepeople may disagree with me I must admit it could be either. Dan San Abbott and Alex Imrie have spent many pages of published and internet text on opposing sides.
On the three pre-production birds there are photograph identifiers and at least one eyewitness account saying lt. blue overpainted with green streaks. Modern historians have taken photo images and weighed in with their ideas. The truth is we don't know. This subject is typical of WWI subject that are only availble in black and white images.
I have modeled the subects in both versions.
Here is a bit of fun.
http://www.fokkerdr1.com/
On the three pre-production birds there are photograph identifiers and at least one eyewitness account saying lt. blue overpainted with green streaks. Modern historians have taken photo images and weighed in with their ideas. The truth is we don't know. This subject is typical of WWI subject that are only availble in black and white images.
I have modeled the subects in both versions.
Here is a bit of fun.
http://www.fokkerdr1.com/
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 06:08 AM UTC
SuccorPhysh
Texas, United States
Joined: June 24, 2007
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Joined: June 24, 2007
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Posted: Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 09:27 AM UTC
I did this 1/32 scale Dr.1 with an air brush.
rolf
Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
AeroScale: 26 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 07, 2007 - 01:54 PM UTC
Great paint job. Did you rig this kit yet? Looks great.
Roy
Roy
SuccorPhysh
Texas, United States
Joined: June 24, 2007
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Joined: June 24, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 01:26 AM UTC
I sort of gave up on the rigging and had set this one aside for a while. I am currently working on the 1/32 scale SE5a - rigging and all - and hoping that success with it will inspire me to go back and finish this one. RIgging scares me.
FalkeEins
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 07, 2005
KitMaker: 868 posts
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Joined: March 07, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 02:18 AM UTC
nice finish Mike.....here's my old Smer (48th ?) Dr.1 finished using the brush technique exactly as described by Stephen....(currently minus tail )
rolf
Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
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Joined: August 17, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 02:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I sort of gave up on the rigging and had set this one aside for a while. I am currently working on the 1/32 scale SE5a - rigging and all - and hoping that success with it will inspire me to go back and finish this one. RIgging scares me.
Well the nice thing about the Dr. I is that there isn't much rigging to do. Alot less than the S.E. 5a.
Roy
SuccorPhysh
Texas, United States
Joined: June 24, 2007
KitMaker: 82 posts
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Joined: June 24, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 11:42 AM UTC
I just have this bad habit of never finishing a model. So, as the SE is spread over my work table I am trying to keep myself from becoming distracted and sliding back onto work on the Dr. 1. Having read about the rigging techniques on this site, however, I plan to do it eventually.
Here is how I did my wings.
Here is how I did my wings.
Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2007 - 05:55 PM UTC
Hi all!
I built the same kit as Neil a few years ago (the Smer Dr.1). I painted the darker green color first and then the streaks with a fine brush and diluted light green paint. Somehow I made the opposite of the real technique (dark paint on lighter undercoat)...
Stephen, before you say the model is too glossy, it was raining heavily that day!
Jean-Luc
I built the same kit as Neil a few years ago (the Smer Dr.1). I painted the darker green color first and then the streaks with a fine brush and diluted light green paint. Somehow I made the opposite of the real technique (dark paint on lighter undercoat)...
Stephen, before you say the model is too glossy, it was raining heavily that day!
Jean-Luc
rolf
Washington, United States
Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
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Joined: August 17, 2004
KitMaker: 301 posts
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Posted: Monday, July 09, 2007 - 02:25 AM UTC
Wow, thats a great looking kit Jean-Luc. And a smer kit to boot. Looks great.
Roy
Roy
FalkeEins
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 07, 2005
KitMaker: 868 posts
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Joined: March 07, 2005
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Posted: Monday, July 09, 2007 - 02:34 AM UTC
super work (of art) Jean-Luc..
when I think of the number of times mine nearly went in the bin...
when I think of the number of times mine nearly went in the bin...