The using small scissors (I also cut the breaks in the rim with these) I cut the wheel secured to the plastic away from the sheet.

I then attach the rims together at the hub and the clear plastic disk center. Once secure and dried in place I carefull take each section and press them down near the hub so that the outer rim sections will touch the clear plastic disk and using VER LITTLE cyano I let the capillary action draw what it will and then pull away. Keep a pourous rag handy to catch any pools.

In the PE gun segment I showed you my inprogress Spandau armoury. Here Is the wheel shop.


With the exception of installing these into wheel halves or drilled out whole wheels, this completes the how to end of this thread. Are there any questions that pertain to the topic?

Stephen,our prayers are with you and your wife at this time. Jesus said"If you only believe-anything is possible for those who believe"....We pray for speedy recovery and peace my freind

Thank you sincerely Jim and all. We are well, she is making fine progress. Maranatha.

In the area where you cut the rim after it's been glued down on the clear disk . A cap is left from this. Would you use thin strips of plastic or putty ?

Best Wishes to your family and you

And for the complete detail nuts amongst us, here is something I found of a Czec website... I cannot for the life if e remember exactly which thread it was on...

Now this I gotta try!

Cheers,

Hugh

That edge or rim area is usually sunk into a rut or gutter formed by two tire halves being united. If you add a strip of curled plastic between the wheel rims it works better if both wheel surfaces / faces are conical. Here it is from page 1.

So here is what you had to do:
Purchase a sheet of polystyrene clear plastic. Evergreen, Plastruct or even the clear stand plastic that comes with Preiser figures. Cut a clear disk slightly larger that your wheel rim. This will be the basis for your wheel. For 1/72 try using .010 thou clear plastic sheet for the disk, for 1/48 use .020 thou clear sheet plastic. For 1/32 use .030 thou...

On some wheels if you look at the forward profile you will note that either both spoked wheel faces or only the outside face stick out beyond the tire. In any case always use a small hollow tube to pass through the clear disk center and through the center of the spoked rims. If the inside wheel face is vertical or flat with out any cupping / dishing outwards you can get away with attaching it directly to the clear disk But again you will need the hollow tube running through their centers through the center of the outside wheel face.

Now, there's an idea... You are going to regret having said that Stephen!...

Cheers,

Hugh

Now that was an old build. I may have an image or two I could scan. Those are in the catacombs next to the last door on the left of the south wing. . .I think?

Another case where exposed wire wheels were seen in the war.