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liquid masking film
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
Idaho, United States
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2007 - 04:34 PM UTC
spent an unusual amount of time masking off the external/wing landing gear well on a tamiya A6M2 zero...airbrushed the wheelwell with the proper tamiya paint, X-13 METALLIC BLUE,prior to had airbrushed on model master acrl grey primer..airbrushed on tamiya I.J.N. acyrl light grey paint,had masked off along the wheel well perimeter with liquid masking film and tamiya masking tape:( peeled off the liquid mask after a few hours and off came the paint and the primer why? I suspect I need to use enamel primer and/or paint? or not use liquid mask which makes masking any thing more difficult I cleaned the painting surface prior to any paint...any suggestions guys? I have LOTS of patience
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 12:57 AM UTC
Model manufacturers sometimes spray oil on their molds to facilitate removing the sprues from the mold. You need to clean the parts, or better, the model once completed with some kitchen soap and water. and rince afterwards to remove all possible soap leftovers.
I let paint dry for a week at least before applying another coat or putting on a mask (tamiya mask)
I never work with liquid mask becasue it is a pain to remove.
I never use primer (which seems to be a mistake) but then I always use enamel which seems to stick better to plastic than acryl.
Not using primer is a mistake also becasue it helps seeign all the details which need some correction befroe applying the final coat.
I hope that this helps a bit
I let paint dry for a week at least before applying another coat or putting on a mask (tamiya mask)
I never work with liquid mask becasue it is a pain to remove.
I never use primer (which seems to be a mistake) but then I always use enamel which seems to stick better to plastic than acryl.
Not using primer is a mistake also becasue it helps seeign all the details which need some correction befroe applying the final coat.
I hope that this helps a bit
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
Idaho, United States
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 08:25 AM UTC
somewhat of a confusing response on the primer, I bought a couple of inexpensive tamiya models to practice on...seems like I need to change to enamel paints and wait longer to dry... a whole week though? I did scrub off all surfaces before in a tub of dish detergent and prior to painting cleaned off again with windex....I will try the enamels, half the enjoyment is striving for better results, the liquid mask was dissapointing however that is to blame on the acryl paint....I think thanks for your help.
CRS
California, United States
Joined: July 08, 2003
KitMaker: 1,936 posts
AeroScale: 1,168 posts
Joined: July 08, 2003
KitMaker: 1,936 posts
AeroScale: 1,168 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 08:41 AM UTC
I have had mixed results when using liquid masking products over the years. I use only enamels and lacquers on my models and have had serious problems when using liquid masking and lacquers. In either case (enamels or lacquers) I prefer to use masking tape whenever possible. The only liquid mask I have had consistent positive results with is liquid latex for mold making, but some caution must be exercised as these products contain ammonia, which may attack the paint or plastic in some cases.
This is by far the biggest disaster (to date) I've had with liquid masking, the lacquer Metalizer ate right through the masking.
This is by far the biggest disaster (to date) I've had with liquid masking, the lacquer Metalizer ate right through the masking.
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 09:25 AM UTC
About masking tapes, I only work with Tamiya tape. It is sticking "just enough" and does not take paint of. It is available in several widths.
I use the 10 and 18 mm width. For difficult masking jobs I stick 10 cm or so of 18 mm tape on a clean piece of glass and cut it with an exacto knife in stripes of 3mm or so. These thin stripes ideal for masking e.g. canopies.
I have experimented with liquid masking tape based on white glue with a few drops of detergent added.
It works but the results are of "variable quality" depending on the mixture of glue and detergent. I do not recommend this
I use the 10 and 18 mm width. For difficult masking jobs I stick 10 cm or so of 18 mm tape on a clean piece of glass and cut it with an exacto knife in stripes of 3mm or so. These thin stripes ideal for masking e.g. canopies.
I have experimented with liquid masking tape based on white glue with a few drops of detergent added.
It works but the results are of "variable quality" depending on the mixture of glue and detergent. I do not recommend this
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
Idaho, United States
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 10:34 AM UTC
yea I think I am through with liquid mask, I am not sure how to mask off curved area with tamiya tape...which is what I have been using, is it possible to mask off curves with tape? I have an area under my a6m2 zero canopy that needs to be masked off and painted cockpit green, seems not possible to mask with tape? how do you suggest i mask of without ant type of liquid mask? thanks for all your help..this is an awesome web site will make the switch to enamel paints.....I have $150.00 worth of acryl paints....what a waste
CRS
California, United States
Joined: July 08, 2003
KitMaker: 1,936 posts
AeroScale: 1,168 posts
Joined: July 08, 2003
KitMaker: 1,936 posts
AeroScale: 1,168 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 10:56 AM UTC
Dave to mask curved surfaces with tape 1. cut / slit the "back" edge of the tape several times, enough so the "front" edge and curve to establish the masking line. 2. follow up with as many layers of tape as it takes to mask off the area on the "back" edge to avoid over spray.
I actually taped an old T-shirt to a model to mask off the rest of the aircraft after establishing the masking line in the above manner.
An example of how I mean for you to cut the tape to make it follow a curved surface:
I actually taped an old T-shirt to a model to mask off the rest of the aircraft after establishing the masking line in the above manner.
An example of how I mean for you to cut the tape to make it follow a curved surface:
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
Idaho, United States
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Posted: Monday, September 10, 2007 - 02:42 PM UTC
oh I see! thanks so much...excellent info
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
AeroScale: 1,587 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 01:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
.....I have $150.00 worth of acryl paints....what a waste
don't throw them out yet. Just use enamels for the tricky jobs right now. You will certainly find a use for these acryls
UNITEDSTATESNAVY
Idaho, United States
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Joined: July 07, 2007
KitMaker: 243 posts
AeroScale: 150 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 02:10 AM UTC
thanks so much for all your help...and patience with me...what a great hobby, tried floquil enamel primer and my paint adhesion problems are solved