I am just getting back into modelling after a 10 year absence. My interest is 1/32 scale prop WWII. My first kit is a Hasegawa 1/32 BF109G-6 kit, really nice. I grew up modelling and using Model Master paints and I see they have a line of MM2 with all the RLM colors. During my research on the net I have noticed the majority of builders in their articles list they use Gunze and Tamiya paints.

Looking for feedback from others, I never had luck and never really liked acrylics and I love the the MM2 line has all the RLM colors as well as other countries. I love the way the MM sprays and is very durable.

I too grew up using Testors / Model Master paints and still prefer to use their enamels rather than acrylics, I like the ease of application and durability of the enamels. Clean up is a bit more difficult with enamels but I still prefer them.

I've tried acrylics a couple of times and was not happy with the results (just my personal experience). Many folks here use acrylics and do get great results.

A secondary reason you may notice more use of Gunze and Tamiya paints is, I have been told, Testors produces are not available in all markets around the world.

Hi Michael,
I would say, stick with the paints that you know. I much prefer enamels, the biggest advantage of which, I find, is that they don't clogg the tip of the airbrush. This is especially true when spraying at low pressures, as with Luftwaffe mottle camo.

I too have tried acrylics and I actually believe that it is easier to clean up after enamels. I never believe that water is cleaning away acrylic paints because, once dry, acrylics are water proof. So, as they dry very fast I am always expecting not to be able to thoroughly clean up Because of this I have always spent far more time than I care, cleaning, or trying to clean up after spraying acrylics.

Mal

I concur. Stick with what you know. I prefer enamels myself though I have acquired a few acryls for various projects. IMHO, acryls are to picky, kind of a PITA to work with. And I've had acryls lift under tape, something that's never happened to me with enamels. Soon I'm going to be trying the White Ensign Models enamels that have been reviewed on this site.

i grew up with Humbrol enamels. Since I have experimented with modelmaster, gunze, tamiya...

and I still like the humbrol most.

I guess that it depends mostly on what you are used to

I use enamel and acrylics. What ever color comes closer to the color I need is what I spray. I haven't had any problems yet. When they dry, what does it matter?

BTW, that is a great kit.

For some people, like me, the smell of turpentine or mineral spirits makes them feel sick. So Enamels are out of the question! I used to use them just for metalics- but since finding Alclads even that has stopped.

So i've tried lots of acrylics out of neccessity. And i can tell you one thing for sure. The Japanese and American/European acrylics are totally different types of paint. They use a different type of base carrier for the pigments. You can mix Gunze and Tamiya paints together, but try mixing them with other acrylics...

I have huge problems with Xtracrylic and to a lesser extent Pollyscale paints for spraying- hard to thin and still get to cover, weak adhesion etc. But Tamiya and Gunze are simple to use and give me no trouble at all.

I think you'll find that most anti-acrylic people have mostly used the non- Japanese paints.

And water is no good for cleaning acrylics, like was mentioned above. Just buy a cheap alcohol cleaner like Methylated Spirits (in Australia that is just Ethanol with an additive to make it taste bad- so it can't be used as a cheap way of getting sloshed). Isopropanol is also good, but it's expensive- unless you get it falling off the back of trucks at work like i do

Most has already been said, you'll get the best results from what you're comfortable with.

I paint with acrylics because I can't stand the smell of turps, even the low-odour variety.

I think the difference between the Gunze and Tamiya paints is that they are alcohol-based, and should be diluted with the appropriate thinners. Vallejo, Pollyscale etc are actually water-based and can be diluted with water only. I had a hell of a time spraying Pollyscale and won't be using it again but that was me not the paints.

my $0.02
Cheers
Wiz

I find i get the best results by thinning with the manufacturers own thinners - yes you can thin Acrylics with water, but a better finish is had with the correct thinner, and a couple of drops of retarder.

Andy

Very interesting, I must admit that I don't really like the fumes from clean up for MM paints. What do you guys use to clean up Tamiya/Gunze paints in your airbrush? I have always had a big coffee can of laquer thinner, I clean my airbrush in that and also clean my paint cups, it smells terrible but really works well. If I tried Tamiya/Gunze paints would you suggest I put rubbing alchohol in my coffee can and use that for my airbrush cleaner? I have also heard to use Tamiya thinner for Tamiya paints and it can be used with Gunze paints but it would be better to thin Gunze with rubbing alchohol.

This is only my own method of course. What works for one person doesn't always work for others!

But straight after spraying with Tamiya/Gunze i spray through with Methylated Spirits (which is just 95%Ethanol). I use that simply because it's the cheapest form of alcohol...plus it can be bought in any supermarket in the cleaning section. I then just use a cotton bud (Q-Tip in the US i think) to clean what i can get to and soak the airbrush parts that come into contact with paint in a jar of Meth. Then once every 2 weeks or so i soak the parts in laquer thinner to give them a really good clean- like you said that stuff really cleans well.

I use Isopropanol (just rubbing alcohol really) for thinning, though some people say Tamiya's own thinner works better.

Even though they don't smell so bad, don't be fooled into thinking the acrylics are safe to breath. Tamiya and Gunze are alcohol based and all alcohol is toxic- even the stuff you drink. And atomised by an airbrush is a very quick and efficient way to ingest it. So you still still need to spray with good ventilation.

Andrew

I find that if you just use water in your coffee can it actually works better than mineral spirits. acrylic paints work great in an airbrush just dont let it dry or its a real pain to clean. I also use humbrol paints and i find they clean up just as fast as the tamiya for those I use cheap paint thinner in my coffee can.

p.s I find Tamiya paints work best with Tamiya thinner a little more money . But really its a drop in a bucket compared to how much money we spend on this hobby.
cheers .
allan

Hi.

GUNZE is in my opinion the "boss" with that satin gloss, perfect!
But i mostly use transparent finishes once decals are placed. and there that delicate semi gloss is gone.
A big drawback of Gunze is that it is verry delicate and it looks like it drys quick, it tends to take ages to harden! And only a fully hardened paint plane can be hand handeled. Something VERY dificult for me. I always want to hold it to look and fiddel with it. With Gunze you allways be too soon and quigkly your finger prints are all over it never to leave! Gunze cant stand: Amoniac, soap, alcohol, breath, maskrol, maskingtape etc.

There for i am back with Xtra color! All the collors are there (RLM, FS etc) and they are gloss!, simply brilliant! Decals adhere the best.
The paint dries fairly fast and hardens as fast.

Toughest paint is Revell and Enamel. Most colors of Revell is exelent for airbrush
Les for Hair brush. Enamel is good for brush and as good for airbrush.

In the end i like paint with good covering even very thin applyed and that stays on!

Arie

Hi there Michael. I recommend acrylics because in my opinion they are as good as enamels or oil based paints. Some would disagree just my two cents worth.
Polly Scale is being discontinued so I have been using more and more Testors Model Master Acryl line of paints. I think you'll find they thin with a little water just fine and are safer to use. Just thought I would add that. Take a look at my photos which show my gallery and you can see all the kits I have built are done with acrylic paints. Hope this helps some. Take care, Russell

Hi Michael,

I too grew up with enamels, mainly MM & Humbrol, but swiftly moved to acrylics.
I prefered them due to the ease of cleaning, not because it offers a better result... Gunze are far better in the airbrush factor (slower time to clog) but Vallejo are my standard nowadays: easily available, cheap and carry most RLM colours- add this to a good density in cover plus dilution works better with plain water than alchool. Also have some Xtracrilics and so far so good...

Unfortunately Michael hasn't posted on Kitmaker for 3 years now, but I'm sure these paint recommendations are still useful.