I'm curious just how much some of you guys spend on cleaning up the surfaces before you use a primer. Do you sand it so perfect that you almost need to do no work after you apply the primer, or do you fix most of the irregularities of the model after you prime it? If you have to scribe lines, I'm assuming you do it before priming, right?

I don't know why, but for some reason I find myself spending about 80% of the time building a model on this stage. I always try to make it perfect and end up with little work to do after priming, but this operation is sure time taking.

Maybe it's because I always end up building older/more troublesome kits when I should be focused on more beginner oriented/newer (better fitment) kits?

Another thing I'm curious about is just how do you deal with regular putty? I have become somewhat disappointed in it because unless I wait for a couple of days, it always tends to shrink. I mostly use super glue now due to this issue. I find Tamiya's light-curing putty to shrink less, but it seems that its adhesive properties are not as strong as regular putty's or superglue's.

Thanks for any help you can provide!

PS. Of course, I am glad to receive input from anyone, not just the experts.

Primer? Me use primer? I must be in the wrong thread.

On primer: I generally do not use it but i do wash my models with a tiny drop of mild kitchen detergent and water (of course) before applying paint.

On models: I tend to go for the best model around of a given airplane that I want to build. i simply do not see any reason to buy a kit with known flaws, bad fits... when there are Hasegawa's or Tamiya's around. This is strongly reducing the need for putty, sanding...

On putty: I learned a brilliant trick on Aeroscale: to use masking tape to cover the area close to the joint you have to fill with putty. It avoids that the putty messes up the complete surface and protects the surface when removing excess putty/sanding.

On sanding: before sanding an area with panel lines it can be useful to make these lines deeper before they dissapear completely under the violence of the sanding paper.

Hi Madwolf!

To start with, I applause your choice of kits! I am myself a High Planes/Ventura/MPM-kit junkie and I have never understood the point of building Tamigawa !

Regarding your protracted filling/sanding/priming process: Are you sure there isn't a bit of psychology in it? Sanding and filling are slow and safe processes that rarely end in disaster. Painting is just the opposite! I realised that starting painting is an obstacle for me to overcome and I tend to stay in the safe and easy part of the process that is sanding and filling...

Apart from that: Yes, I try to fix as much as possible before priming. On the other hand, I know that I will find blemishes after priming as well since they show up so well then so there is no reason to overdo the first round of preparation.

Regarding putty: I have had a period of using an acrylic solvent based body filler that dries very fast and is easy to sand, it also bites into the plastic. The disadvantage is that it shrinks. Not much but it does. And it does so a long time after being applied to the model. Now I am back to white Milliput again. Two-component, heavy to mix, slow-curing (overnight), cures rather hard and it doesn't stick as well to the plastic. And it is tricky to scribe as well. But it doesn't shrink, not at all!

Another trick regarding the panel lines that sometimes works: Apply the putty then, before the putty has dried/cured, run a sharpened toothpick along the panellines through the putty to clean them out.

Regards

Magnus

Thanks a lot for all your help, guys.

As to why I end up with older/poor fit models, it is mostly because of my choice of subjects and most of the time there is only one model available in that scale and of that type.

My last model was an XXI type U-boat in 1/144 scale. Only Revell made that u-boat in 1/144 and it was released in 1992 (re-released since, but it is only a repack). There is of course the Robbe 1/40 which is quite a bit larger and very much more expensive (meant primarily for R/C).

The current model I'm working on is a MiG-29 UB. Only Academy made MiG-29s in 1/48 and again in 1992. This one is the most challenging build I've done so far. It has many errors and fitment is quite poor. Large amounts of filler are required for many of the joints.

Academy has obviously made progress since 1992, since in the 1997 edition of a 1/48 Su-27 I have, they've taken greater care with the design of the model and the joints will not require anywhere near as much work as the MiG does.

So I guess if you're not particularly picky about what you build, you can always stick to newest model releases and then you're fine. I guess I should take a break and build something new next time.... like the Eduard Fw-190 A-8 I have in the stash.

[quote
So I guess if you're not particularly picky about what you build, you can always stick to newest model releases and then you're fine. I guess I should take a break and build something new next time.... like the Eduard Fw-190 A-8 I have in the stash. [/quote]

You are absolutely right.

But I try to be picky AND stick to the newest model release

Still, if I want a particular model then I will build it even when it is a nightmare. I am working on a small article on a few recent nightmares and what I learned from it.

Far from an expert, I'll just mention something that I have used with some success.
Red-Cap Spot Putty. Red Oxide Primer. It's available in auto supply stores in the US.
It's a PPG product.

It's very pliable out of the tube(it comes in a big toothpaste tube that will last a lifetime). It dries in minutes, although you have ample time to work it, doesn't seem to shrink and sands great although it is harder than plastic. I mainly like it because if you have to scribe thru it, it won't crumble. It's really nothing more than thick automotive primer. It will etch plastic but not like liquid glue will.

The main disadvantage is that it's red. Although i've not had any serious problems in this area, I could se that, at least on lighter colors it might show through if not adequately covered.

Hi Steve

Red Oxide Primer putty is something of a holy grail in the UK - an almost mythical beast that we read about frequently, but can't (as far as I know...) buy over here. Does anyone have a handy link to get some?

All the best

Rowan

Rowan -

You might try this -

www.hammerite.com/uk/products/usage/ug_red_oxide_primer.html

This is paint base. The stuff I'm talking about is a putty like you say. Maybe Hammerite makes something similiar. You might also try the PPG website (that stands for Pittsburg Plate Glass). They may export it but it's possible that you Brits are such excellent drivers you never get deep enough scratches in your cars to need it. That's what it's for - dings that are too deep for paint but don't warrant bodywork. If worste comes to worst, we can make arrangements for me to send you over some assuming I can still find it. The tube I have is probably 15 years old and I have no clue where I got it.

Rowan -

Here's a site you might try -

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/bodyandbumper.aspx

The stuff they sell isn't the same brand as mine but it's similiar although I've never used it.

Steve

Hi Steve

Many thanks for the links and your kind offer. Red Putty is something that I've often seen written about in magazine articles over the years - but it always seems to be US modellers using it. I only ever came across one modeller over here who had any - and he got it on a trip to the States.

I do hope to make it over to the US one day. I'll have a huge list of places to visit and things to buy - and this thread has reminded me of one more thing to look out for. It's not a priority - there are loads of other fillers available here - but this has piqued my curiosity about the red stuff again.

All the best

Rowan

I'm going by a PPG later today. I'll check on it.