Give it a shot and see what happens. You may need to resort to more aggressive fillers if it doesn't work. The trick with eliminating seams is being persistent.

Mr Surfacer will fill the gap very well. Or you could use Liquid Putty from the same company.. A bit finer..

Hi Kevin

My favourite filler for tasks like this is a trick I learned in the early days of Armorama - probably the best tip I've ever picked up! - "Supafiller" (a mix of superglue and talcum powder). Neat superglue works as a filler too, but the resulting joint is often harder than the surrounding plastic. The beauty of "Supafiller" is that it dries quickly, doesn't attack the plastic (but don't use it on clear parts - it'll fog them), doesn't shrink and is easy to sand - and, importantly, is about the same density as styrene.

Basically, pour a drop of superglue onto a palette and mix in some talcum powder until it has the consistency of toothpaste. I apply it with a toothpick and it sticks like the proverbial "poo to a blanket". You can quickly build it up in layers for major modifications.

All the best

Rowan

Kevin, I feel your pain. Small seam lines always are the hardest to deal with. Squadron Green or White putty just doesn't work very well in that situation. It's not that it doesn't fill the recess, it does, but wet sanding removes the top layer and some of the recessed layer, so that you have either the same indent, or it's slightly less, but you still have it.

I use 4 alternate solutions:

1- I thin Squadron Green stuff with Tamiya Xtra Thin glue till it's a very soft like paste. Then using a small flat dental or sculpting tool, I apply small dollops to the seam and really push it in. Let dry and repeat. Let dry and dry sand. Even when I polish that seam, I don't use wet paper, as I'm concerned that the water will dissolve some of the Green stuff.

2-Thick Super Glue. Again, I apply it in dollops, smooth. Let dry, then a 2nd coat. Let dry, and wet sand. Regular Super glue is usually too thin to fill anything but a scratch. Several coats are needed. Never tried the Talcum powder method, but it seams that it makes the Super Glue thicker as well. A option I will have to try myself.

3- As Jessica alluded to, you can always use stretched sprue or plastic rod to fill slightly deeper seams. I've used this method many times. Sand when dry, then a coat of my thinned green stuff to finish off the procedure.

4- I've also used Tamiya's regular Gray Primer straight from the bottle applied in a few heavy coats. Fills small seams and scratches as well.

Just take your time, repeat as necessary. All plastic joints that were joined with plastic cement will have some melting of the plastic. When you don't get it to bubble up, there is usually a concave seam left to deal with. Believe me I know. I'm an expert at getting that concave seam line.

Joel

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I'll give it another go during my days off of work this week.

As an update, I tried the "Supafiller" Rowan suggested, mixing talcum powder with CA glue. It works wonderfully well. It's quick drying and although I can still see the seam, it's completely smooth. The real test of course will be priming the model, but I'm confident at this point I won't have to touch it up.

Kevin, glad that method worked. Going to be trying it myself in a day or two.
Joel

Hoi,

I am just bumping this,

Because soemone of my local hobby club asked, and because it is such an interesting topic