Well, let me know what you think.
Bear in mind I don't own an airbrush yet(you know not the pain of getting an f-15 for christmas and not having an airbrush!), so this is the product of some patience with a brush(well a lot of different sizes of brushes)
This is the older kit, with some raised panel lines and such.
This is also my first ever attempt at weathering, so I kind of overdid it. (though I have seen a lot of pictures of Japanese aircraft with almost no paint left, so maybe this is an intermediate stage?) Tips for the future would be helpful, thanks.
World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Tamiya Raiden 1/48 DONE
BattleRabbit
United States
Joined: October 17, 2007
KitMaker: 23 posts
AeroScale: 21 posts
Joined: October 17, 2007
KitMaker: 23 posts
AeroScale: 21 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 07:24 AM UTC
calvin2000
Colorado, United States
Joined: July 25, 2007
KitMaker: 886 posts
AeroScale: 332 posts
Joined: July 25, 2007
KitMaker: 886 posts
AeroScale: 332 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 11:49 AM UTC
I like it just the way you did it. looks good
Tin_Can
Florida, United States
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 06, 2008 - 02:22 PM UTC
Chris, I think your Raiden looks just fine.
Since you asked for tips I'll oblige. Since you've got the basic construction process down, I think you should now focus on something for each new model that will improve them a little. Looking at your Raiden, I think you should tackle improving seam lines first. If you look at the leading edge of the wings in the yellow section you'll see what I'm talking about. You glued it together nicely. You can see, though, as a result of the glue melting the two wing halves together that a little bit of plastic/glue was pushed out of the joint and is showing. That's ok but you should try and get rid of it next time.
With your Raiden you have the easiest scenario to fix. Because of the way the plastic/blue has pushed out all you need to do is remove what squeezed out. That's easily accomplished with some sanding. Most of the hobby stores sale some kind of sanding stick you could use. Personally, I head to the local drug store and go to the women's makeup section and pick up fingernail sanding/buffing sticks. They make some great combination ones that are labeled step 1-smooth, step 2-buff, and step3-shine. Some even have a four-step process. You hit the problem joint with step 1, 2 and then 3 and -bam!- a smooth joint. They're very handy.
If, after joining the two wing halves together, there is a gap/depression along the seam then you would have to fill the gap/depression with some sort of filler before sanding smooth. Depending on the hardness of the filler, you might have to be a little more aggressive with the initial sanding of the joint. In my case, I use a autobody filler called Nitrostain. After filling the joint I hit it with wet sandpaper followed with the step 1, 2, and 3 process described above.
Once you can perfect those joint seams you'll see a dramatic improvement in the overall appearance of you models after you apply the paint. Kind of a 2-for-1 deal.
Hope this helps you.
Since you asked for tips I'll oblige. Since you've got the basic construction process down, I think you should now focus on something for each new model that will improve them a little. Looking at your Raiden, I think you should tackle improving seam lines first. If you look at the leading edge of the wings in the yellow section you'll see what I'm talking about. You glued it together nicely. You can see, though, as a result of the glue melting the two wing halves together that a little bit of plastic/glue was pushed out of the joint and is showing. That's ok but you should try and get rid of it next time.
With your Raiden you have the easiest scenario to fix. Because of the way the plastic/blue has pushed out all you need to do is remove what squeezed out. That's easily accomplished with some sanding. Most of the hobby stores sale some kind of sanding stick you could use. Personally, I head to the local drug store and go to the women's makeup section and pick up fingernail sanding/buffing sticks. They make some great combination ones that are labeled step 1-smooth, step 2-buff, and step3-shine. Some even have a four-step process. You hit the problem joint with step 1, 2 and then 3 and -bam!- a smooth joint. They're very handy.
If, after joining the two wing halves together, there is a gap/depression along the seam then you would have to fill the gap/depression with some sort of filler before sanding smooth. Depending on the hardness of the filler, you might have to be a little more aggressive with the initial sanding of the joint. In my case, I use a autobody filler called Nitrostain. After filling the joint I hit it with wet sandpaper followed with the step 1, 2, and 3 process described above.
Once you can perfect those joint seams you'll see a dramatic improvement in the overall appearance of you models after you apply the paint. Kind of a 2-for-1 deal.
Hope this helps you.
BattleRabbit
United States
Joined: October 17, 2007
KitMaker: 23 posts
AeroScale: 21 posts
Joined: October 17, 2007
KitMaker: 23 posts
AeroScale: 21 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 09:25 AM UTC
excellent, thank you.
What would you all recommend for some finishing products? I am almost out of the decal setting stuff (someone gave me a nearly empty bottle with no label, and it is rubbish), so what would you recommend to prevent silvering? Also, what is good for weathering? Crushed oil pastels or something?
What would you all recommend for some finishing products? I am almost out of the decal setting stuff (someone gave me a nearly empty bottle with no label, and it is rubbish), so what would you recommend to prevent silvering? Also, what is good for weathering? Crushed oil pastels or something?
CaptainA
Indiana, United States
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,117 posts
AeroScale: 2,270 posts
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,117 posts
AeroScale: 2,270 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 10:04 AM UTC
Looks good. I am doing just what Bryan suggested. On each new build I try something new or different, improving on my last build. These forums will tell you how to build and improve. Don't be afraid to try new techniques.
Your build looks great.
Your build looks great.