Just thought I'd share one of my latest in what seems a never ending line of Albatros scouts. Just really like building these things. Again, the kit is out of the box with monfilament and guitar string rigging.

I used the kit supplied painting masks but needed to do some touch up afterwards, not everything was parallel.

I used Techmod 5 color lozenge, since it was all that is really available at this time, and hand painted the edge tapes. I used Future tinted with Ultramarine and Burnt Sienna acrylic paints to "glaze" or darken and texture the decals. I applied one coat with just the Blue and then applied the tapes. Then I finished with a coat of Brown and Blue to tint the tapes as well.

Finally, I sprayed everything with Microscale Micro Flat thinned with isopropyl alcohol.

As always comments and critique are welcome, I'm always ready to learn something new.
Dwayne

Another fine job , What size of guitar string did you use ? I heard of other modelers using this medium just never tried it myself . I just finished buying the Eduard kit on e-bay with these markings . Your pic's on the paint will be very helpful for me .

Haya Dooin Terri, thats New Yorkese for hello!

I use extra light high E electric guitar string, its .008 gauge I think. Electric guitar is lighter gauge than acoustic. Low E is wound with thin metal thread and is heavier gauge making it thicker, even if the outer thread is removed its still too thick. The strings can be purchased individually at most musical instrument stores for around a dollar. Its coiled up in a square shaped thin paper envelope. Some folks like to hang it up by one end and tape some weight to the other for a few days to straighten it out. I use it mostly for the elevator control cables and the landing gear struts.

Regards, Dwayne

That is a spectacular job.

Greetings Dwayne; May I say you have come along way in your building. Your getting better and better with every build.

Ok the good news: It looks square and plumb. This is critical for a biplane kit build. The colours though not as parallel as you would like are very much like the original. The texture treatment helped the Techmod lozenge decals tremendously. Thank you for sparing my eyes.

Now the problems. Eduard molded the hub on the wrong side of the propeller. the curved edge should lead. The wood laminations have to turn toward and overlap the front edge of the prop blade. D.2299/17 was an Alb. D.V with aileron cranks and shrouds in the top wing on upper and lower surfaces. Though your rigging is a good representation for the D.Va types. Did you removed the pilot's step and relocate it?

Well done Dwayne, your best so far i think.

The only question i have is about the Techmod decals. I've only used their decals once (not lozenge) and they were thin and perfectly printed, but had a fatal problem...as soon as they touched the model surface they would not budge even one mm further ever again! I couldn't adjust the position therefore. It could just be the ones i tried, because it would be a nightmare if the lozenge decals were the same?

Andrew

To All,

Thank you for the kind words, they are much appreciated.

Stephen,
Your kind words are matched by your constructive critique, I have learned much from you. Thanks for the explanation on the prop facing. I remember you mentioning it on another thread but it is clear to me now. I have to remember the D V/D Va aileron controls on future builds as well as the foot step. I must say that my approach to accuracy will be drawing something closer to equal time as the other aspects of research, building and painting.

Andrew,
Per one of Stephens suggestions I put a couple drops of white glue in my decal dish so I'm not afraid to let the lozenge decal strips seperate a bit from the paper. With a paintbrush dipped in the water I place them on the wings, dipping extra water if needed, in this manner they float decently enough into position. Once placed I use some napkin pieces as blotters to soak up excess water and brush out bubbles with the paintbrush as they dry. Handling is tricky until completely dry. The downside to this method is that the decals are fragile along the edges and may chip. To keep this to a minimum I use solvaset along the seams and edges. I still wind up using paint to touch up the chipping. Depending on the severity of the chipping I may apply a clear coat of Future before applying the tapes. I try to keep the coats of Future to as few as possible because I need two for tinting as well as my final coat of Microscale Flat. As Stephen mentioned, the colors of the Techmod decals tend to be a bit "psychedelic" with the top ones more so then the bottoms in my opinion, so tinting the Future with Acrylic colors is necessary. Lets hope that the "American Connection" comes through with some decent 4 and 5 color lozenge so tinting wont be a part of the process.

I have to say that I really am enjoying the hobby and I think alot of that has to do with being able to share it with you folks here. Thanks to all who have shared their thoughts and ideas and experience with me. With your encouragement and help I feel my skills and approach have benefited greatly.

Regards, Dwayne