Here is one of the few models I have finished lately. Enjoy...

Scott






Comments are welcome....

Scott

From what I can tell, it looks pretty nice.

:-) Verrrry Very nice Scott,
Your technique works well (assuming you have painted this as you said in the other thread) It is definately better than the other model I was talking about, done with a similar technique. Do you wash the panel lines? if so, what do you use? :-) What do you use for the antenna wire? Are they kit markings? and what paint do you use? Just a few questions to be going on with :-)
Every time I see one of these built up it makes me want to get one.
Can only see the dreaded red X's where your pics should be, had to copy and paste the URL from the properties, into the search bar to see them. They then appeared?
Mal

Same here Mal. Must have something to do with the place that's hosting his pics.

Mal,

The antenna wire is very fine nylon thread. It suits 1/32 aircraft, and I have found that stretched sprue is too brittle. I use MM enamels, (RLM 74/75/76) I really don't like acrylics and neither does my Iwata brush... Enamels spray and control much easier and they are easier to clean up in the brush. Acrylics are supposed to be safer but since you have to use lacquer thinner to clean built up paint there is no point IMHO. The markings are just some of the kit supplied decals. I was going to model a specific Gustav, but the decal sheet I bought from Eagle strike had (completely) bogus paint information, and I didn't find this out until I had already painted the plane, so I just applied general markings.

I do use washes on all my models, I generally use watercolors. I have used oils, but the watercolors are safer and easier to control. If you do a watercolor wash, and you dab the brush into a bit of soap, the wash will "shoot" down the panel lines via capillary action. Anyway, it was a good kit to shake off the rust. First one I had completed in over a year.

Thanks for the compliments,

Scott

Mal,

Me again. Sorry about the pics. I use Webshots. Can anyone help me out?

Scott

Webshots won't let you do inline graphics by hotlinking from their site. Just put them as regular links using the URL tag instead of the IMG tag.

Looks great, TF !!!!!!! We now can rule the skies for the DSB....

uh thanks Penny, but I feel a little funny taking credit for didiumus' work. That's his Gustav.

Scott, one word, simply awesome. The painting job is beautiful, the build is flawless, this is a fine piece of model.

Good work!

I appreciate the comments. I can assure you that the build is NOT flawless. As I said, it was intended to shake the rust off. I do sincerely appreciate all of the nice comments, though. If you have been thinking of building one of these kits, do it. It is an incredible model.

I added a CE cockpit set and an Eagle Editions spinner.

Thanks again, all...

Scott

:-) Scott,
I to use nylon thread ( smoke, invisible mending thread ) for the same reason you do. Have you tried shearing elastic? At the moment I use both enamels and acrylics but I think I prefere enamels, for much the same reason as you. After painting and spraying thinner through my brush, I disassemble it and store the parts in celulose (lacquer) thinner. I used to use watercolours for washes, but after discovering Klear (Future) I switched back to oils. We seam to have similar ideas, although we have obviously taken slightly different directions when faced with the preverbial crossroads. I would be interested on your thoughts about washes, I discuss this a little in my article on the Bf 110G-2. Basically I never use straight black (I might do on a black painted aircraft, but I haven't been there yet), prefering a mix to reflect the base colour, with a brown edge. I don't keep records, this helps to ensure that there is at least a subtle difference, between planes with similar schemes. Another reason for prefering oils is that when they are wiped off (in the direction of the air flow) they leave a slight, uneven film. I am also playing with different wash techniques, ie sludge washes left on for 24 hours, or traditional washes, or something in between.
As Tim says, Webshots wont let you hotlink to their site. What most? of us do is to host pics at the Armorama affiliated MSN site (link is on the home page). Jim recently discovered that there was a limit to the number of folders, so I don't know if there are any available. I think that when we move to the dedicated server (I think thats what it is) there will, possibly, be hosting facilities. As Tim also says a live link to your pics is fine :-)
Mal

Mal,

I haven't tried shearing elastic, although it is an intriguing idea. The Nylon thread is so easy to use that I haven't been motivated to try other methods. I built a 1/48 Tamiya Spitfire Mk 1 and used Nylon to replicate the aerials between the fuselage and the horizontal stabs. It looks great.

I clean my airbrush (Iwata Eclipse HP-CS) pretty thoroughly, so I haven't stored it in thinner, but it isn't a bad idea. I get kind of paranoid about disassembling my brush more than I have to, as the Iwata has such a fine needle and nozzle.

Lately I have been using the MM Acryl cleat coats for me sealer. I have also been using the MM metallizer Sealer under decals that tend to easily silver, it is great stuff! It hardens very quickly, and is super smooth. I have used future here and there, but haven't yet mastered it. I have mixed a batch up with a couple of additives so that it will flow through my airbrush better, so maybe that will work better.

As far as washes, I am still using primarily watercolors as they are easier and much much cheaper than good oils. I am not opposed to oils, I just still haven't quite gotten over the paranoia that comes from putting oils thinned with turpenoid on that paint job that you are so proud of... Do you know what I mean??? As to colors, I don't have any hard and fast rules, but it primarily depends on the subject being modeled, where it would have served, what the colors of the paint job, are, etc... I use a grimy dark grey for most of my washes, but I will also black, sienna, and umber quite a bit. Black usually looks too dark on tans, but not always, and I really like dark grey or black on most greys, blues, and whites. My Gustav was washed with the dark grimy Grey wash. The Academy M3 I am working on is painted with British Light stone (tannish yellow) so it will receive primarily burnt sienna / burnt umber washes. I may use the grey around the engine and on the wheels, I will just see what looks "right" to me.

I also get the effect with watercolors when "Wiping" although admittedly it is a little harder to achieve with water paints. My washes on aircraft are usually a mixture of sludge and free washes, depending on the location being washed and how rough the sheen of the paint. I like both techniques, although the sludge washes take more time to clean up.

Thanks for the help on the pics, I will use it.

Great talking to you!!!!

Scott

:-) Scott,
At one time I thought shearing elastic to be the last word in replicating antenna wires, but now that goes to nylon thread :-) I use CA to attach mine do you?
I have been thinking about doing an article on Klear (Future) it gets talked about alot. Most modellers airbrush it on but I hand brush it and have worked out an easy to follow (I think) method. Using Klear takes away the worry of damaging paintwork. I'm looking for a new airbrush, double action, but for the life of me I can't make up my mind. Priority though is a new compressor :-)
If you click on my signature pic or my selected link, they will take you to my album. I mainly use the album for in progress shots and then the finished pics. I have been pretty prolific in my modelling, since I joined so I have emptied my album 4 or 5 times. I also have some pics in the gallery and some hosted at webshots. I keep meaning to change my "selected link" to that. :-)
I see you haven't joined the Battle for Britain campaign yet there's no rush, it doesn't kick off till Monday :-) Oh and I think you should join the Barbarossa campaign as well :-)
Great talking to you too :-)
Mal

Mal,

If you hand brush it on, how do you do that? What about brush strokes and puddling? Doesn't it go on too thick? (obviously it doesn't, your models are really nice) I think an article would be great. Also, are you sure it is the same as Future?

I really like your technique for chipping paint. Honestly, most of the paint chipping I see is overdone and looks fake...

I do attach my aerials with CA and I use kicker so that it sets instantly. I do have to be careful though, so I don't get any kicker on the model as it eats paint.

I cannot recommend an Iwata airbrush enough. I have used Aztek and badger double action brushes, and the Iwata is simply stunning. It is like going from a tool to an instrument. Very precise, very light and nimble, very easy to use. You can get an Eclipse HP-CS like I have - gravity fed, large cup, made for modeling, for less than $100 USD and that includes a hose. Check FSM ads and bear-air.com and dixieart.com. Also, save yourself some money and noise - consider a C02 or Nitrogen tank setup instead of a compressor. I have a C02 setup and I really like it much more than a compressor. I work on my kits a lot at night and a compressor will wake the wife and kids, which isn't good... LOL!! Also, C02 and nitrogen are both drier than compressed air. You won't need a moisture trap.

Thanks for all of the help on pics. Maybe I will start an album on MSN too...

Mal, help me out on this "Campaign" thing. I am new to Armorama, I really like it but I have been a regular on Hyperscale for years. What is a campaign and what do you do?

Talk to you soon...

Scott

Sorry about the mix up.... Great job Didi....