I rushed on a paint job - using Vallejo acrylic - a while back and when I went to mask for laying down some camo, the paint lifted off in places. Okay, I went on-line and figured out that I just hadn't prepped good enough to remove oils before painting the first layer. Lesson learned, I think!

Now I am back at it and don't care to mess up the Phantom II I'm building. So far I soaked all sprues in a degreaser to remove mold release agent and before spraying primer, I washed model in mild dish soap. My concern now is the appearance of the primer coat which seems to be grainy...is that normal or did I screw that up somehow? If so what did I do wrong? It isn't that big of a deal but I was expecting a smooth surface. I read another post - I think it was Merlin - that leads me to believe that perhaps the primer was drying before reaching the surface of the model. This could very well be since I am being overly cautious to not get too much paint on the surface so as to avoid runs. I sprayed Testors enamel primer from a can. Is that my problem, using a spray can versus loading up the airbrush with primer?

Any advice appreciated.

Hi Kirby

seems you painted your layer to dry. I have learned that the rattle can primers work pretty well so I do not think it is a disadvantage over the air brushed primer. IIRC somewhere here at the site was a "How to" on this.

First read the instructions. I know it is banal, but you learn what the advised distance is. Shake the can properly! Start outside of the model and proceed the spray process in an even stroke until you are off the model. This will avoid pooling. Several thin layers are best and the first one or two runs can be dusted on dry but the final layer must be a wet layer so the paint can level out. Do not do it too wet. Better let it dry and do another session if you are not satisfied. Practice!

On your model it will be best to sand/polish the primer.

HTH

cheers

Steffen

P.S. what I forgot: There are places on a model (e.g. the wing to fuselage transition) where the air builds a whirl, which lets the paint dry faster and where more paint gets trapped than on a straight surface. You have to avoid this. ..

also keep in mind that Vallejo paints, being pure acrylics and not acrylic enamels, are significantly more fragile and have considerably less adhesion power than acrylic enamels like tamiya or sango gunze - especially coming from an airbrush.

so far as i know, there isn't much to be done about that aspect of it besides good surface prep, and even that will only do so much.

someone please correct me if i am wrong because i'd love to know how to make vallejo paints tougher, but after 30+ of dealing with paint in various forms, that's the best i can tell you. Vallejos are fantastic paints to work with, but you pay the price in issues like durability and lifting.

-v-

Thanks Steffen,

I sort of figured that was the problem but good to receive input from an experienced modeler. Like I stated earlier, I was trying really hard not to get the paint on too wet and having it run or pool up. I think the biggest thing is to just do it and learn from each experience!! I am finding this true in the area of using an airbrush. I am starting to get over the initial "fear" of using this instrument and am starting to enjoy the results...don't get me wrong, I am far from an expert and am learning by making mistakes but that is the key. Each time I use the airbrush - aka. PRACTICE - I come away having discovered another little trick or secret to getting better results than the last time! It is a very, very good tool for getting cool results in the finished product. I remember as a teen, I drooled over the models I would see that were obviously painted using an airbrush...now I finally have one of my own!

Well it appears I've rattled on...once again thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try!

Kirby

Hi Vance

Normally a good surface and some primer is sufficient for the Vallejo air stuff (like that too, but prefer Gunze and Tamiya when I can get them). I once got a batch of JPS color which had a wrong carrier medium (I could wash it of the model after it was dry) .. thus I added a little Klear to replace medium/ enforce the bond .. worked fine.

Maybe that is also possible with the Vallejo paint ... (problem is that Vallejo has a vinyl part and emulsifies easily. e.g. you cannot thin it with alcohol .. well, at least I could not. Just got a gooey mess.)

cheers

Steffen

Thanks Vance and Steffen,

I absolutely love the Vallejo paint! If I can just keep it from lifting off I would be in heaven. Could I spray it with Future or Klear and then mask over that? What do y'all think?

I'm using Model Master Acryl on my F-4S build and am happy with the ease of use. So far, so good on not getting any peeling paint. I have some Tamiya paints but yet to use any.

Another question...What pressure do you guys shoot with? I have figured out that if I run my gun at between 5-10 psi - the lower the better - I am getting pretty good results.

Kirby

Of course you can. I do it all the time. Airbrush one color, let it dry, mist on a thin coat of future and mask after it has dried.

I remember having tried adding future to vallejos, worked well. Don't go overboard with it though, as you want to make the paint more durable, not make it transparent. (Although that could be used for weathering, smoke stains and other effects I suppose... )

As I paint almost exclusively with acrylics nowadays, I've made it a habit of always applying a primer coat before painting. Although you can improve the adhesion of acrylics by carefully cleaning the surface of the model, the cold hard fact is that the great majority of acrylics don't stick to bare plastic (or other smooth materials) as well as enamels for example.

This may help you as well . When working with Vallego paints to aid in the paint to dry slower and better coverage thin it with clear windex . also great for clean up as well .

Thanks all.

Haven't tried the windex as thinner or cleaner...will experiment.

Have successfully sprayed future over vallejo then allowed to dry and masked, overspraying with another color, and no problem pulling off masks. Am becoming more comfortable with airbrushing and learning a lot simply by using it and experiencing these things first hand. Once again, all the advise from the "pros" comes in very handy!! Thanks.