Here is the RE8 by airfix . I believe the date stampled on the inside of the fuselage was 1958 for the molds
The intirior was completely scratch built, using windsock datafile for reference

The insturment panel guages were drilled using microdrills(I didnt have a holepunch at the time) and backed with sheetstock.The needles were scratched in with a knife and peclil residue was used to colour the scratch,leaving a nice thin needle.

the machine guns were stolen from a toko kit,and the SCARFF ring is Eduard photo etch.

The engine started as an Aeroclub Liberty engine. I cut down the number of cylinders and Frankenstiened it to fit the airframe.

The exhaust pipes are aluminum pipe,flattened and drilled out,grafted to the original engine manifold.

Another shot of the observers office.

The tailskid is completely scratchbuilt.

Wow! That is a little ripper Jim.
Obviously you like to rework things that mere mortals fear to touch.

Cheers,

Hugh

Thanks Hugh..I dont know what got into me

Lovely model Jim. Lovely, lovely model!

The old Harry Tate in 1/72 never looked so good. Nicely done sir!

Wonderful job done Jim . The office is fantastic , how did you do your wood grain ?

Thanks again Terri. Its a simple tecnique really...it just takes a bit of practice. I Do all my woodgrain using it.
1-start by undercoating using Humbrol linen. allow to cure for 4 days minimum
2- apply a thin coat of future floor polish(acrylic gloss). Allow to cure 1 day minimum
3-apply a slightly thinned oilpaint (from tube) I use Raw Sienna or Burnt Umber depending upon your desired effect. Iv heard the goal is to see a honey colour, but I usually go deeper. Use a brush for this,and go kinda slow...youre looking for brushmarks,not a smooth finish..the brushmarks are your grain......alllow to set for 5 days minimum.
Its not hard,but I find its not that predictable either...I like to work up my "mojo"before doing it....practice on evergreen stock or an old model.....I have a Lloyd from Special Hobby that Im waiting to REALLY put this tecnique to the test on.....(I think youd like the Lloyd kit ,Terri...check it out at your LHS)

Thanks for tips Jim . I still need to work on this tecknic some more . I do have Raw Umber oil paint in the tube . Just nothing to thin it with and for clean up . I already have the Special Hobby kit of the Lloyd C.V and it is a very nice kit indeed and very cool looking ! Thanks for the link as well . I would like to get another one , one with the Gun housing and one with out .

I always use Enamel thinners straight from the bottle. I take an eyedropper, transfer what I need to a small "working jar" and work my brush from there so as not to taint my supply.

So any Enamel thinner will work then ? I can't even remember when I got the paint or where

Terri,
You will find that that Testors model masters airbrush thinner or any similar product works with tube oils. They actually enhance drying time! I don't know that burnt umber would give you the effect you want, try as Jim said, burnt sienna and RAW sienna.

Jim, beautiful work on that old relic of a kit!
RAGIII

Many thanks Rick!!

Terri I use a generic enamel paint thinner that I pick up at my LHS for thinning oil paints all the time ..works great..I use Laquer thinner from Canadian Tire to clean my airbrushes

thanks jim !