Hi all

I appear to have talked my self into building a WW1 plane for a display next year with my local IPMS group based on the Biggles books. I probably have enough skill to build and paint one but I know I am going to need some help with the rigging.

I have looked back through the forum with little success (unless of course it is part of another thread) trying to find some advice on doing the rigging on a WW1 bi-plane.

So any advice to a target builder would be appreciated as how to best to do the rigging and what materials to use

many thanks in advance

Keith Forsyth

Hello Keith,

Here is one of the best tutorials that I've run into on the subject of rigging. I know I learned from it.

https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/115266&page=1

Regards
Steve

Kieth -

You might try looking through the General Aircraft forum, back two or three pages for my post entitled "Biplane Rigging". I asked for help with this a couple years ago and got an overwhelming response. In fact it was my first post.

Hope this helps
Steve

There are several threads in Early Aviation that concern rigging. Try this. I have been told its a good read.

Click Here.

". . .First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings.

Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.

When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.

The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry. . . "

I am experimenting with E-Z Line. Another form of strands made from a polymer.

thanks guys

the links helped no end, but what is the material being used for the rigging it looks clear is it some form of thread?

cheers

keith

Invisible sewing thread - monofilament, fishing line, E-Z line stretching polymer. Even human hair in some cases.

I went into the local sewing house and found...surprisingly....."Invisible Thread" in smoke color. That seems to be the brand name. Earlier I found some from Coats & Clarke, but that was on-line and not in the store.

Good stuff. Not stretchy and is a monofilament.

Regards
Steve