World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Special Hobby CAC CA-9 Wirraway
CMOT70
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Posted: Monday, November 24, 2008 - 03:07 PM UTC
Well into this one now, just about to primer stage. So i can give a pretty good indication as to things to watch out for if you want to build this one.
One of the first things i did was clean up all the resin and assemble the cowling halves...often resin engines simply don't fit inside because they are scaled to the correct size of the original and don't take into acount the thickness of the plastic cowls. But this one fitted perfect.
The cockpit is fidly, but i think represents the steel tube structure very well. One thing about the plastic SH use, it is very soft and flexible which sometimes has benefits and sometimes is a hindrance.
The cockpit assemble fitted perfectly inside the fuselage sides. But a test fit of the canopy later found that the roll over framing was WAY too high. So i had to pull that off trim about 3mm from each leg and re-fit.
One area i was a bit scared of was the forward wing to fuselage join. It was a combination join of the interior cockpit floor, lower wing and fuselage halves. All this in a limited run kit didn't sound good. However it wasn't as bad as expected...the soft flexible plastic sort of helps a bit when adjusting this area. It wasn't filler free, but not too bad either.
The area that test fitting did show a problem was the top wing to body join. If done the usual way, joining all the wing halves and then fitting to the fuselage, it seemed that a step and gap would result along the critical upper wing to body join. And we all know that is a very hard place to fill and blend, especially with a step involved. So i did it this way: First i joined the lower wing to fuselage to get that earlier mentioned lower front wing join acceptable. Then i superglued the top wings only along the upper wing to body join, leaving the rest of the top wings loose for now. Then i taped and glued the remainder of the wing tops using liquid cement. This made a filler less join along the top wing to fuselage join.
It did mean that some filler was needed at the leading edges of the wing roots, but i felt that was far easier to fix than a step all along the wing to fuselage join.
In the pic you can also see that i used some sprue to spread the upper forward fuselage sides slightly, as they tended to pinch in at the top.
The landing lights didn't fit well. I expected that...well it's common even with regular high production kits, so it has to be expected for limited run kits for sure. I coated the clear landing light covers in Tamiya Clear X-13 to prevent fogging and super glued them. Then filed and sanded and finished with micromesh. It only took 15 minutes all up.
Normally i paint the cowl seperately and fit it later for radial engined subjects. But in this case it cannot be done because the lower air scoop is fitted to both the lower fuselage and the cowl. And test fitting showed it would need some filler, so it couldn't be fitted after painting.
This kit is the most enjoyable i've started this year so far. The latest SH and Classic Airframes kits set the standard in my opinion for surface detailing. And they are not too difficult to build with a bit of test fitting and some minor brain usage to solve small fit issues all that is needed.
Andrew
CMOT70
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Posted: Monday, December 15, 2008 - 03:27 PM UTC
I finished this one 2 weeks ago, but only just got around to doing some pics. Of course after the pics i noticed that i hadn't tightened the antenna wire yet. But that's now been taken care of, easy fix.
Only 2 things to really watch for when finishing off this kit. 1/ The clear parts are are very brittle and delicate. Though also very clear and free of distortion at the same time.
2/ Like the clear parts the decals are very thin and sharp. But also delicate and tend to latch on to the surface very fast. I found it best not to use a setting solution under the decals, just ordinary water to allow more time for manuever. Then use a softening solution on the decal once finally placed.
There's some that argue about the Green used by RAAF aircraft. Some think it's quite dark and others think it was more vivid and lighter. I think in the conditions they operated in it could probably result in a very wide range of shades over the operational life of the aircraft. Just mix a colour you like and go with it, she'll be right! I used Tamiya Dark Green with a bit of Gunze Sail Colour mixed for shading.
I think the earth brown was a bit more reddish than the RAF version. So mine is a mix of Gunze Flat Earth and Tamiya Red Brown- that's esentially what SH call for in their markings chart.
The Sky Blue was a mix of Gunze and Tamiya colours that i now can't remember.
Andrew
Only 2 things to really watch for when finishing off this kit. 1/ The clear parts are are very brittle and delicate. Though also very clear and free of distortion at the same time.
2/ Like the clear parts the decals are very thin and sharp. But also delicate and tend to latch on to the surface very fast. I found it best not to use a setting solution under the decals, just ordinary water to allow more time for manuever. Then use a softening solution on the decal once finally placed.
There's some that argue about the Green used by RAAF aircraft. Some think it's quite dark and others think it was more vivid and lighter. I think in the conditions they operated in it could probably result in a very wide range of shades over the operational life of the aircraft. Just mix a colour you like and go with it, she'll be right! I used Tamiya Dark Green with a bit of Gunze Sail Colour mixed for shading.
I think the earth brown was a bit more reddish than the RAF version. So mine is a mix of Gunze Flat Earth and Tamiya Red Brown- that's esentially what SH call for in their markings chart.
The Sky Blue was a mix of Gunze and Tamiya colours that i now can't remember.
Andrew
SuccorPhysh
Texas, United States
Joined: June 24, 2007
KitMaker: 82 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Joined: June 24, 2007
KitMaker: 82 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Monday, December 15, 2008 - 04:01 PM UTC
Very nicely done.
Blueheeler
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 18, 2008
KitMaker: 347 posts
AeroScale: 223 posts
Joined: March 18, 2008
KitMaker: 347 posts
AeroScale: 223 posts
Posted: Monday, December 15, 2008 - 06:44 PM UTC
She's a beauty! Been looking forward to someone doing this kit on here for awhile. And your right, with the sun like it is up in the top end you could end up with any shade of the green.
Posted: Saturday, December 20, 2008 - 08:27 AM UTC
Hi Andrew
Really nice job! It's great to see the Wirraway went together well. My own kit is glaring at me from the Stash, but I keep telling it it'll have to wait! Hmmm - didn't I see mention of a Trainers Campaign somewhere?...
All the best
Rowan
Really nice job! It's great to see the Wirraway went together well. My own kit is glaring at me from the Stash, but I keep telling it it'll have to wait! Hmmm - didn't I see mention of a Trainers Campaign somewhere?...
All the best
Rowan
buggalugs
Australian Capital Territory, Australia
Joined: June 06, 2007
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 115 posts
Joined: June 06, 2007
KitMaker: 135 posts
AeroScale: 115 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 20, 2008 - 09:23 AM UTC
Hi Andrew
Looks fabulous. Thanks for the tips about construction and the decals and clear parts. Like Rowan's, my kit is staring at me from the stash. I might just need to go and have another look at the Wirraway in the War Memorial up the road - they've got A20-103 on display there, the one that shot down the Zero over Buna in 1942 - to get some inspiration...In the meantime, thanks again for sharing your build.
cheers Brad
Looks fabulous. Thanks for the tips about construction and the decals and clear parts. Like Rowan's, my kit is staring at me from the stash. I might just need to go and have another look at the Wirraway in the War Memorial up the road - they've got A20-103 on display there, the one that shot down the Zero over Buna in 1942 - to get some inspiration...In the meantime, thanks again for sharing your build.
cheers Brad
Posted: Saturday, December 20, 2008 - 07:01 PM UTC
Hi Andrew,
I don't know how I could miss this one!
Great build and very fast... Of course you will submit it as a feature?
Jean-Luc
I don't know how I could miss this one!
Great build and very fast... Of course you will submit it as a feature?
Jean-Luc
CMOT70
Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 629 posts
AeroScale: 539 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 20, 2008 - 07:54 PM UTC
Hi Jean-Luc,
sure i can put together the notes and pics and submit it as a feature. A bit busy for the next week or so, so i'll probably get to it just after the new year.
Andrew
sure i can put together the notes and pics and submit it as a feature. A bit busy for the next week or so, so i'll probably get to it just after the new year.
Andrew
Winjeel
Australia
Joined: August 25, 2010
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Joined: August 25, 2010
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 - 09:01 PM UTC
Hi Andrew, I'm just starting my Wirraway and I was hoping to see how you attached the instrument panel as the instructions do not show how or where to mount it. Can you help?
Thanks
Phil
Thanks
Phil