World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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washes ?
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2009 - 02:00 PM UTC
im building trumpeters 1/32 hellcat and i was wondering how to best apply a wash for the recessed panel lines without darkening the overall paint color? thanks
redcobra04
Virginia, United States
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
AeroScale: 44 posts
Joined: August 23, 2008
KitMaker: 235 posts
AeroScale: 44 posts
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2009 - 02:11 PM UTC
Try here swannysmodels.com. Open page and go to tools and tips at bottom of page. Hope this helps.
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2009 - 10:49 PM UTC
Hi Rob.
Theres plenty of information on different types of washes right here.
Type "wash" into the search engine at the top right hand corner of the page and you'll find lots of help there
In your specific case you need to be working on a gloss surface. I would use about 4 coats of Klear to ensure a really smooth surface.
A water colour based wash or something like Pro Modeller wash would be good in your case.
Apply the wash with a thin brush directly to the panel lines and let capillary action pull it along them. When its dry, wipe the remaining wash off with a dampened paper towel.
This should keep any darkening of the base colour to a minimum.
Hope this helps
Nige
Theres plenty of information on different types of washes right here.
Type "wash" into the search engine at the top right hand corner of the page and you'll find lots of help there
In your specific case you need to be working on a gloss surface. I would use about 4 coats of Klear to ensure a really smooth surface.
A water colour based wash or something like Pro Modeller wash would be good in your case.
Apply the wash with a thin brush directly to the panel lines and let capillary action pull it along them. When its dry, wipe the remaining wash off with a dampened paper towel.
This should keep any darkening of the base colour to a minimum.
Hope this helps
Nige
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Monday, January 19, 2009 - 11:25 PM UTC
thank you guys for the advice.this helps . oh forgot to ask, how do i get rid of the glossy look after the wash. thanks again.
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 12:08 AM UTC
Hi Rob.
I use matt varnish, or sometimes satin. Depends if the aircraft I'm modelling was polished, as many of them were for that extra couple of miles per hour
Dont forget that the Klear also acts as an excellent gloss base for applying decals over and helps eliminate any silvering that may occur.
Nige
I use matt varnish, or sometimes satin. Depends if the aircraft I'm modelling was polished, as many of them were for that extra couple of miles per hour
Dont forget that the Klear also acts as an excellent gloss base for applying decals over and helps eliminate any silvering that may occur.
Nige
stonar
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 01:03 AM UTC
Hi Rob
if using the Promodeller or another water based wash might I suggest adding a drop of soap to the solution before application. It breaks the surface tension and helps it to flow along the panel lines.
Steve
if using the Promodeller or another water based wash might I suggest adding a drop of soap to the solution before application. It breaks the surface tension and helps it to flow along the panel lines.
Steve
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 02:17 AM UTC
thanks again for the tips everyone.
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 02:18 PM UTC
Rob, I have used every kind of wash you can imagine and had success and failure. It is tricky to get just the right results. Since I started using Promodeler washes though my nightmares are over. Trust me, they aren't paying me to say this, but Promodeler is the greatest stuff I've ever used. Just have to make sure you have a nice gloss coat of paint or Future down first, as this makes clean up a breeze and you won't accidently discolor any panels.
Hermon
Hermon
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 06:02 PM UTC
Promodeller it is then ! thank you guys for the help.
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 08:52 AM UTC
one more question guys please? should i put the paint chips,exhaust streaks and stains on first before the future coat,and which color wash would be good for the upper surface of a hellcat with a pacific three color scheme? thanks Rob
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Joined: November 28, 2005
KitMaker: 2,216 posts
AeroScale: 1,080 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 10:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
one more question guys please? should i put the paint chips,exhaust streaks and stains on first before the future coat,and which color wash would be good for the upper surface of a hellcat with a pacific three color scheme? thanks Rob
Rob, the chips and stains can go on before or after the Future. I generally do this before the the Future. Main reason is that you want the airframe as slick and shiney as possible before you lay down the decals in order to eliminate any silvering.
Promodeler washes come in 4 or 5 basic colors. I usually go with black or dark dirt if I really want details such as rivits and panel lines to really stand out.
One thing you should consider is if your Hellcat is depicting a carrier based or land based aircraft. The land based will basiclly be extreemly dirty and beat all to he** where as the carrier based plane would have been better maintained and cleaner without the mud splattered on the underside and sand/grit over the fuselage.
One other tip. As a final touch, some very very very thinned down light colored paint (white) sprayed over the top of the wings and fuselage will do wonders for giving the aircraft that faded worn look often associated with a pacific campaign bird. My preferred method of doing this is mixing in a drop or two of Tamiya flat white in with Future (about 2% paint and 98% Future) and giving the mentioned sections of the plane a light covering. After that follow it up with a coat of dull flat clear and she'll look like she's been baking in the sun for half the war.
Hope this helps
Hermon
Posted: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 11:23 AM UTC
You can also mix Promodeller washes together to achieve different shades.
Thats what it says on the website anyway, I havent tried it myself yet
Nige
Thats what it says on the website anyway, I havent tried it myself yet
Nige
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 04:09 AM UTC
im gonna try this all,thanks again everyone.
elvis3006
Joined: September 19, 2007
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
KitMaker: 81 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Friday, January 23, 2009 - 08:43 AM UTC
hi guys,ok i got the future gloss on the model now.can i use an oil based wash on the acrylic based future safely,and wipe excess off with oil thinner?
Posted: Friday, January 23, 2009 - 11:28 AM UTC
Ive used oil/turpentine washes over brush painted Klear before and not had any problems.
There are usually at least four coats of Klear on the model at this stage.
On one occasion I sprayed Klear and the oil/turps wash ate through the acrylic paint underneath.
After that I switched to using water colour/acrylic based washes and then Promodeller.
Dont panic though,, I have left oil washes on Klear ( brush painted, 4+ coats) for 3 or 4 days with no problem. The oil paint was mixed with pure turpentine.
Be sure to let us know how you get on.
Photos?
Nige
There are usually at least four coats of Klear on the model at this stage.
On one occasion I sprayed Klear and the oil/turps wash ate through the acrylic paint underneath.
After that I switched to using water colour/acrylic based washes and then Promodeller.
Dont panic though,, I have left oil washes on Klear ( brush painted, 4+ coats) for 3 or 4 days with no problem. The oil paint was mixed with pure turpentine.
Be sure to let us know how you get on.
Photos?
Nige
Posted: Friday, January 23, 2009 - 01:55 PM UTC
Here's the absolute, incontrovertibly best wash techniques on the entire internet!