Hi,
I am about to start my first kit that contains resin parts and wondered what the best way of removing parts from the sprues is. Especially the really little parts as I can see them snapping easily.
The kit is a Classis Airframes Avro Anson. My father flew these in South Africa teaching navigation in WW2 so want to do a good job of it.
Also should the divides between camoflage have sharp a divide or a soft edge?
Thanks in advance, Mark

Hi Mark

for removing the large blocks I use Tamiyas "Thin Blade Craft Saw" (74024) which works really nice but is large and has to be used carefully. It cuts skin and flesh equally easy ... ask me how I know.



If you have very delicate attachment points and parts many people use such razor saws:



I have a Czech product (JLC) and only use the blade.

HTH

cheers

Steffen

Thanks Steffen. Have to see if I can locate those two products.
Regards, Mark

I agree with Steffen, the JLC razor saw is one of best and most used tools i have ever bought. Forgot to mention one thing about resin, Use a mask when sanding or cutting. The dust wont do you any good.

Hi Mark!

Altough the CA Anson isn´t the kit I would recommend as a first multimedia kit, It´s one of the best as far as multimedia kits goes.

Don´t know how much experience you have had with short-runs or multimedia kits before.
But I assume you are a confident builder and this is your first venture in the short-runs world?

Resin is very(!) brittle, so be careful when you remove the pour-stubs, and never bend the parts.
You can use a mini-saw as the others have recommended, but a sprue-cutter and a sharp knife will also serve you well when removing the smaller parts.

Use some type of CA-glue, but remember to dry fit (many times) before gluing!
With resin and CA there´s NO going back!

When gluing the etched parts you can use whatever suits your needs, white glue (PVA), CA or clear glue.

The demarkation between the camouflage colors should be a rather hard one.
Only 0.5-1.0 inch overspray was allowed!
So in 1/48 that´s a hard edge, I usually use masks made from Kabuki (Tamiya-type) tape.

Demarkation between upper colors (Dark Geen/Dark Earth) and the underside (Aluminium/Silver Dope) was also hard.

Please, show some pics of your build here!

Cheers and good luck!

Stefan E

Hi all




Well, Stefan is a very experienced modeller especially in short run kits, but I would NOT recomment using a side cutter for beginners. I do use that too sometimes, but the few seconds saved will eventually result in a few hours searching the snipped off part or repairing a broken part and that is not always possible. So better use the razor saw blade for small parts. .... believe me I speak from experience

all the best

Steffen

I have one more piece of advice on limited-run kits: Never assume anything, always dryfit everything before bringing out the glue. It'll save you from many a headaches.

Thanks for all the advice guys. Will try to do some pics of the build but don't hold your breath. I have cut out some of the resin parts for the cockpit interior earlier this week but sadly it was my mums funeral yesterday (Friday) so at the moment my heart isn't in it as you can imagine. Also now got a stinking cold so won't be doing much till Tuesday at the earliest. Plus I am a slow worker. Bought my late father's log books home from mum's as well. He flew Ansons and Oxfords in the war so would like to model one he flew. Bought him the Air Britain book the Anson File years ago so have found some he flew in South Africa but it doesn't say if they were fitted with turrets or not. He did say that a lot he flew didn't have them as they were used for navigation and bombing training purposes.
Regards

Mark, Sorry to hear of your Mom's passing. My condolences. About parts removal, the side cutters will save you time, and you can avoid the flying parts by simply placing the part you are cutting inside a gallon zip lock baggy. It allows you to see the part you are cutting, and the bag will contain any fly-aways. The one gallon size will give you enough room to get your hands inside to work freely. Have done this for years. Hope this helps. "Q"

Thanks for your kind wishes Matthew. The plastic bag tip sounds like a winner.
Regards, Mark