World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
bare aluminum finish-Japanese airframe
JimMrr
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 03:31 AM UTC
Does anyone have any pointers for a guy whos never done a bare aluminum finish before?..I have alclad laquer paint and primer I planto use. I have heard it is VITAL to thin your paint by 50% and do multiple coats? Any input guys?
Red4
California, United States
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
AeroScale: 1,164 posts
Joined: April 01, 2002
KitMaker: 4,287 posts
AeroScale: 1,164 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 06:41 AM UTC
My first tip would be to make sure your model is as close to scratch free and smooth as possible. Natural metal finishes will highlite any and all scratches. Secondly, do not thin your Alclad as it was designed to be sprayed just the way it is. You are right on target with multipe light coats though. Give each coat ample time to dry. I usually let mine set for 10-15 minutes between coats, but you might be able to get by with less time. Take your time and have a little fun. Post some pics of your work too. We'd like to see. "Q"
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 07:29 AM UTC
Hi Jim.
Theres a feature about using Alclad and working on NMF aircraft.
ALCLAD ADVENTURES
Hope it helps
Nige
Theres a feature about using Alclad and working on NMF aircraft.
ALCLAD ADVENTURES
Hope it helps
Nige
JimMrr
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 08, 2009 - 01:21 PM UTC
Just what the doctor ordered! Its for the Eduard Tsurugi kit..Im gonna try to push this puppy out for a contest coming up in a couple weeks. Should be fun OOB. Im still waiting for my ref . material for my FW 190D "yellow 10"...sigh..
tferedo
Philippines
Joined: July 30, 2008
KitMaker: 58 posts
AeroScale: 36 posts
Joined: July 30, 2008
KitMaker: 58 posts
AeroScale: 36 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 12:58 PM UTC
Make the surfaces blemish and sratch free as possible as NMF colors tend to highlight them. When doing NMF finishes, I usually prime the entire model with black (semi gloss or gloss black would do). For me its the best primer color for silver and NFM paints.
Take note that if you are doing Japanese aircraft, some of the fabric covered surfaces are either in silver dope or in light grey green color. The silver dope should have a flatter appearance than the metal skin portion of the aircraft.
HTH,
Take note that if you are doing Japanese aircraft, some of the fabric covered surfaces are either in silver dope or in light grey green color. The silver dope should have a flatter appearance than the metal skin portion of the aircraft.
HTH,
JimMrr
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 02:16 AM UTC
Many thanks Tony. I will do a photo blog once the plane is done guys. Cockpit area and rotary engine are now painted and I will today close the fuselage and add the wings,etc. ...sand and polish,sand and polish....