Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Packing WW1 aircraft .
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 02:46 PM UTC
Well I'm leaving the great white north and moving to Texas ! I have read other post on packing and shipping models . But what would be the best way to pack up the kit's I have built already ? Planning on place them in large zip-lock bags and using lot's of that foam stuff . I worried about things like the wings getting broken off and such . Does any one out there have any tip's ?
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
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Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 03:57 PM UTC
I know just the thing. I used this method as a kid when we moved from Texas to Colorado several times because of my Dad's work.
First, get several larger sized boxes. 3X3' is about right.
Second, get some upholstery thread (heavier than normal threads).
Third, clear packing tape. (Post office or packing places.)
Fourth, layer the bottom of the box with polystyrene packing peanuts or foam rubber.
Fifth, put down one layer of finished kits. then around the outside of the box measure 3-4 inches above the foam at the bottom of the box.
Sixth, take a heavy gauge needle and sew the thread from one opposing side to another. When finishe you will have a tight grid of thread able to support the next layer of kits.
Seventh, add packing tape to the outside of the box as this will keep the thread from digging in to the holes and going slack.
You should be able to get 8 - 9 layers of finished kits in a 3X3' box. When unloading empty the top layer and snip off the emty threads to get to the next. Just don't set anything on top of this box except other similarly packed boxes of models. I usually averaged less that 5% damage over-all.
First, get several larger sized boxes. 3X3' is about right.
Second, get some upholstery thread (heavier than normal threads).
Third, clear packing tape. (Post office or packing places.)
Fourth, layer the bottom of the box with polystyrene packing peanuts or foam rubber.
Fifth, put down one layer of finished kits. then around the outside of the box measure 3-4 inches above the foam at the bottom of the box.
Sixth, take a heavy gauge needle and sew the thread from one opposing side to another. When finishe you will have a tight grid of thread able to support the next layer of kits.
Seventh, add packing tape to the outside of the box as this will keep the thread from digging in to the holes and going slack.
You should be able to get 8 - 9 layers of finished kits in a 3X3' box. When unloading empty the top layer and snip off the emty threads to get to the next. Just don't set anything on top of this box except other similarly packed boxes of models. I usually averaged less that 5% damage over-all.
B24Liberator
Minnesota, United States
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 134 posts
AeroScale: 113 posts
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 134 posts
AeroScale: 113 posts
Posted: Friday, February 13, 2009 - 12:20 AM UTC
Hi Terri !
TEXAS? Wow that's quite a change, eh? New job?
I can concure that Stephens' method works. Others have used is as well and have had similar success. Congrats on your move !
TEXAS? Wow that's quite a change, eh? New job?
I can concure that Stephens' method works. Others have used is as well and have had similar success. Congrats on your move !
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Friday, February 13, 2009 - 02:34 AM UTC
Thanks Stephen , that is a really neat idea ! . I have things around the house that would be prefect for the job . I will still place them in large zip-lock bags so if anything does break the part(s) won't be lost .
Yes Johannes new job on a ranch with my best friend . For the past year and half she has been asking me to come down and do this with her so why not ! What I like about , no more snow and being cold in the winter months !!!!!
and yes I will get dual citizen ship .
Yes Johannes new job on a ranch with my best friend . For the past year and half she has been asking me to come down and do this with her so why not ! What I like about , no more snow and being cold in the winter months !!!!!
and yes I will get dual citizen ship .
Dwaynewilly
New York, United States
Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 365 posts
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Joined: December 15, 2006
KitMaker: 365 posts
AeroScale: 344 posts
Posted: Friday, February 13, 2009 - 01:06 PM UTC
Terri,
Heres another method that I find works well for me.
I use the thin plastic bags you get from the market to pack your groceries in for the trip back home. I also use 2 boxes of different size so that one fits into the other with a couple inches space all around in between them. Finally, I sometimes use some form of packing material like styrofoam peanuts or some type of plastic bubble wrap.
I place each model in its own shopping bag and fold it over, this will keep any detached pieces with the model should they come off. I then place crumpled up empty bags into the bottom of the small box as lining. Next, I place the kits, one by one into the box, placing additional empty crumpled bags in between the kits themselves and the sides of the box. The box is then filled, with enough space at the top to put another final cushion of crumpled bags. The crumpled bags will expand and unfold slightly to conform to their environment.
Once the small box is taped closed I put it in the larger box that is lined with more crumpled bags, styrofoam peanuts or plastic bubble packing material. I don't use styrofoam peanuts in with the models because they can work their way into the gap between wings and landing gear. This could cause very negative results from the jostling and shifting that the box will undergo. The bags are very pliable and won't cause that kind of damage if not packed too tightly.
This method allows the models to be protected from the normal jostling of shipping by allowing them to shift position slightly inside the box without breaking. The exterior box shields the inner box from direct blows. From New York, I have shipped built models to the West coast of the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and South America with excellent results.
Congratulations and good luck in your new home, Dwayne
Heres another method that I find works well for me.
I use the thin plastic bags you get from the market to pack your groceries in for the trip back home. I also use 2 boxes of different size so that one fits into the other with a couple inches space all around in between them. Finally, I sometimes use some form of packing material like styrofoam peanuts or some type of plastic bubble wrap.
I place each model in its own shopping bag and fold it over, this will keep any detached pieces with the model should they come off. I then place crumpled up empty bags into the bottom of the small box as lining. Next, I place the kits, one by one into the box, placing additional empty crumpled bags in between the kits themselves and the sides of the box. The box is then filled, with enough space at the top to put another final cushion of crumpled bags. The crumpled bags will expand and unfold slightly to conform to their environment.
Once the small box is taped closed I put it in the larger box that is lined with more crumpled bags, styrofoam peanuts or plastic bubble packing material. I don't use styrofoam peanuts in with the models because they can work their way into the gap between wings and landing gear. This could cause very negative results from the jostling and shifting that the box will undergo. The bags are very pliable and won't cause that kind of damage if not packed too tightly.
This method allows the models to be protected from the normal jostling of shipping by allowing them to shift position slightly inside the box without breaking. The exterior box shields the inner box from direct blows. From New York, I have shipped built models to the West coast of the US, Canada, Australia, Europe and South America with excellent results.
Congratulations and good luck in your new home, Dwayne
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Friday, February 13, 2009 - 01:44 PM UTC
that's a cool idea as well Dwayne ! Thanks , gives me a few more ideas in my head here .
Posted: Friday, February 13, 2009 - 03:16 PM UTC
Hi Terri,
Texas!? A ranch?! What will you be doing? A friend of mine spends his summers as a wrangler at a dude ranch in Wyoming. Eats a ton of food a day and looses weight by the end of the season. Sounds like fun. Know of any canvas falcons down here?
Packing? Stephen, I'll try your technique next move. Here's how I moved my goodies 1,400 miles. I put my rigged planes into a large zip-loc baggie. I zipped it left a corner unsealed, and sucked the air out of the bag until it just squeezes the aircraft. Then the model is sealed in the bag if anything wiggles loose. Then the peanuts snugly snuggle around the bag. This prevents peanuts from wiggling into the rigging, like it did with my 1/48 Gladiator years ago! Now, honestly, I have not unpacked most of these since moving in Nov 2007, but if curious, I can dig one out and photograph how well it worked.
If you have monoplanes... Years ago I moved models from Arizona to Kentucky. I packed them as such:
1. Sturdy booze box. Punch small holes in the sides and ends.
2. Unbend a paperclip and put therought he holes.
3. Stretch rubber bands across. The wings are secured by two bands, and a cross rubber band secures the fuselage. The models bounce and giggle to their hearts content and nothing breaks. And no peanuts!
Regards,
Fred
Texas!? A ranch?! What will you be doing? A friend of mine spends his summers as a wrangler at a dude ranch in Wyoming. Eats a ton of food a day and looses weight by the end of the season. Sounds like fun. Know of any canvas falcons down here?
Packing? Stephen, I'll try your technique next move. Here's how I moved my goodies 1,400 miles. I put my rigged planes into a large zip-loc baggie. I zipped it left a corner unsealed, and sucked the air out of the bag until it just squeezes the aircraft. Then the model is sealed in the bag if anything wiggles loose. Then the peanuts snugly snuggle around the bag. This prevents peanuts from wiggling into the rigging, like it did with my 1/48 Gladiator years ago! Now, honestly, I have not unpacked most of these since moving in Nov 2007, but if curious, I can dig one out and photograph how well it worked.
If you have monoplanes... Years ago I moved models from Arizona to Kentucky. I packed them as such:
1. Sturdy booze box. Punch small holes in the sides and ends.
2. Unbend a paperclip and put therought he holes.
3. Stretch rubber bands across. The wings are secured by two bands, and a cross rubber band secures the fuselage. The models bounce and giggle to their hearts content and nothing breaks. And no peanuts!
Regards,
Fred
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 02:27 AM UTC
Thanks Fred , other cool idea ! What size of rubber bands did you use ?
With so many options here now for you guy's , maybe you guy's can come and do the packing for me ! and I can get my nails done
With so many options here now for you guy's , maybe you guy's can come and do the packing for me ! and I can get my nails done
B24Liberator
Minnesota, United States
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 134 posts
AeroScale: 113 posts
Joined: November 07, 2008
KitMaker: 134 posts
AeroScale: 113 posts
Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 12:22 AM UTC
Terri --
Only if you promise to feed us and provide the beer too....