_GOTOBOTTOM
World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Applying Roundel Decals
Recce_Guy
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 28, 2007
KitMaker: 110 posts
AeroScale: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 03:48 AM UTC
I have a few questions about applying roundels. I am about to start applying the markings to my 1/48 scale Hurricane. I have the Areomaster decal set for early war aces. The roundels with this decal set come in two seperate pieces. I would like to use micro set and micro sol on these to make them look more realistic and so they hug the details.

How do you apply these since they come in two seperate parts? Should I do everything for the first part and then apply the second or should I try to get them all on at once?

Also, is there anything to be concerned with while using micro set/sol on such a large decal?

Thanks for any help,
Cam
stonar
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 04:46 AM UTC
Hi there
I assume you have the roundels with the seperate red centres. I usually apply the first part and set/sol it as usual. Once dry I then apply the second part on top as if it were a seperate decal.
I don't find the size of a decal to be an issue with microsol. I did once have a cross shrivel and break up horribly but I'm sure this was due to the nature of the decal film and not its size. I usually do a quick test on one I'm not going to use now!
Cheers
Steve
BTW I think the "dissolving" decal was from a Hasegawa kit
pigsty
_VISITCOMMUNITY
United Kingdom
Joined: January 16, 2007
KitMaker: 1,226 posts
AeroScale: 640 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 04:57 AM UTC
I'd echo that. Roundels with separate centres (what a pain...) are only a particular instance of a general problem: decals that overlap. The basic rule for this is that you have to let the bottom one settle completely before applying the next one up. If you don't, you risk the bottom one moving around as you ease the upper one into place.
AIRGUNNER
_VISITCOMMUNITY
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: September 27, 2006
KitMaker: 246 posts
AeroScale: 234 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 05:34 AM UTC
I normally apply the first part of the roundel, let it sit for an hour then put the second part on. Once its sat for a bit then add setting solution to the whole lot. Never had any problems, as you will see when I finally get round to posting pictures of my Defiant I have just finished.
Recce_Guy
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 28, 2007
KitMaker: 110 posts
AeroScale: 34 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2009 - 06:05 AM UTC
Thanks fot he help guys.

On another note, how do you guys age the decals. I am going for a Battle of Britian burricane which is slightly worn and I want the decals to match. Is this done just by applying washes to the decals or something else.

I am new to aviation, I mostly do Armour.

Cam
JimMrr
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2009 - 12:34 AM UTC
I would finish in the same way as armour. after applying the dacal you can apply a glosscote....wait 24 hours ...pinwash the panel lines with oils(drawing exess away along the slipstram) then dullcote everything ..some guys use their airbrush set as fine as possible and draw a line over the panel ines too.. Iv seen articles where the entire airframe is "filtered" after decals and this works also..
Recce_Guy
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: August 28, 2007
KitMaker: 110 posts
AeroScale: 34 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2009 - 01:29 AM UTC
Thanks,

Cam
 _GOTOTOP