I just picked this kit up (it made me do it) and I am very impressed with the kit detail and options. Is there a build/review on this kit yet, or anything tips or issues to look out for?

There a quite a lot actually (googling brought up several), but I remember them hardly specifically pointing out issues.

I've been recently working on the first released F6F-3 version. As the newer 'dash-five' kit differs slightly from the one I'm building, I used a couple of articles to draw my conclusions (1, 2, 3 + the kit instructions)
These cockpit manual pictures have also been very useful: Cockpit layouts

If anyone has differing opinions and other things to point out, please do share them. Also notice that I don't have hands-on experience of the dash-five, my observations are based on reviews, articles and the kit instructions above. I'm assuming the basic plastic parts haven't been drastically altered.

Here's what I've noted so far. Tips, issues, pointers, what have you. These reflect my opinions and choices I've been making with my sample. You may want to make different choices, naturally. In an orderd roughly following the construction sequence of the instructions:

- The seat sides benefit from sanding for a more in-scale appareance
- The trim wheel system gets some PE, but still doesn't match the real thing: the "box" is about half the size it should be. I made a new one from styrene sheet and some scrap PE.
- A bundle of wires running from down from the radio panel on the right cockpit sidewall could be added
- The reflector gunsight seems to sit a bit too forward. Photos I've seen show it suspended behind the instrument panel coaming, while the kit has a cut-out in the coaming and sight moulded to the instrument panel. I'm not 100% sure if this accurate after all, though. The kit item looks nice, but AM solutions are available for those so inclined.

- Thin down the tailwheel door as it's quite thick
- Drill out the lightening holes in the tailwheel strut

- While the wings feature clever pins near the wing roots to ensure the correct spacing, they lack such devices along the trailing edge - glue a couple of pieces of styrene to act as shims (test fit with the flaps and ailerons to determine the best thickness for the shims)

- The engine is quite nice, but can be further enhanced. Finding photos shouldn't be an issue. I feel the kit-engine is perfectly adequate for a closed cowling. Adding details to it makes a nice excercise in detailing. Several aftermarket manufacturers make resin replacements as well, in case one wants an easier or even more detailed powerplant.

- The prop blades are somewhat thick and can be sanded down. Also, the bolts between the spinner halves are way undersized compared to photos of the original, and could be replaced with streched sprue for example.

- The way the radio antenna masts attach (and the masts themselves) look flimsy and easily broken. I'll brobably replace mine with something more sturdy,

I hope this helps.

Thank you. It does help a lot.

You're welcome.

Thinking about it, a few more thing popped into my mind:

Just why Eduard did the wing machine guns like they did is way beyond me. Having to glue them in place as you assemble the wing halves not only makes the seams harder to clean up, it also subjects them to the danger of being knocked off. (That's somewhat modeler-dependent though. I'm one of those who always knocks off fragile parts while working)

More on the engine. Here's a good set of photos of an R-2800
What I did on my sample was:
- added the missing boltheads on the lower edge crankcase
- glued plastic sheet behind the magnetos (If I'm not mistaken. Anyway, those bulky thingies on the 11 and 1 o'clock positions) to rebuild the ignition harness ring
- scratch-built a new ignition harness, replacing the flat PE provided