I usually let the Testors Metalizer paints dry until I get my airbrush cleaned up. Then I go to lightly buffing it with a old cotton t-shirt. As I continue to buff I apply more pressure until I get the shine I want. I have only once over coated the Metalizer with a clear sealer and didn't like the result.

Here's a F-86F I did several years ago . The T-6 is finished with the old Pactra Chrome that came in a rattle can.



This is the finish that I have been getting, on some Mustangs and a B-17 or two, and thats why i want to try a longer drying period.



Texas

John, the only time i have ever gotten a real Nat finish, is with the real stuff. Alcad II comes close, I've seen good results with SnJ powders, but nothing beats Bare Metal Foil. I didn't notice but the last time I got some I actuall got the matte Aluminum, which is the dull side of the foil, the polished stuff is great for the bright areas. HobbyTown USA, and a lot of other shops carry it, just be careful the stuff can get expensive. I can do 3-4 kits with a bottle of alcad at $8 a bottle, the BMF I maight be able to do one 1/48th scale aircraft like the P-51 with 2 sheets for twice the cost. I have to search the net, but there is an article with detailed instructions for useing kitchen type foil. If i find it i'll post it here for ya.
Steve

Go with alclad... as i did on mine. You don't have to buy all the different tones, you can make it darker with MM metalizers. If you are looking for a really shiny one, prime the model with gloss black laquer paint, polish it, and then apply a coat of Alclad chrome or Alclad polished aluminium...

Prime the model with Mr. Surfacer, polish it well with a cotton cloth, and you are ready to go.
I don't like my models too be too shiny, so i always weather them a bit more, with a semigloss coat for a finish. I guess even a glossy car doesn't look too shiny when looked from far away. I used Alclad white alu, duralu, and polished alu on this one.