help im up to painting the camo,the kit includes paper camo cut outs wats the best way to paint them on. as in sticky tape em , one at a time
filthy:)
World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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help! hasegawa Ju87b-2
filthysanchez
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 24, 2009
KitMaker: 6 posts
AeroScale: 2 posts
Joined: May 24, 2009
KitMaker: 6 posts
AeroScale: 2 posts
Posted: Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:04 PM UTC
Posted: Monday, July 06, 2009 - 08:35 PM UTC
Hi Robert
First: thanks for correctly writing the type! I have seen so much misuse that the small typo (the "B" should be capital) is neglectable
As for the camo .. you cannot do it without some work! I use these paper plans as guide and starting from the lightest colour (in general) airbrush and mask until it is done. My tape of choice is the kabuki style tape from Tamiya and Aizu. For some straight areas I sometimes used 3M low tack/ "frosted" tape.
Others lay frisket film or other translucient masking film on the paper and draw/ cut the pattern. If you have soft edge camo, you could cut out the paper as mask and attach it with blue tack (or similar stuff) to the model as it is slightly above the surface you will get a bit of overspray and thus a soft demarcation ... Lw splinter pattern was hard edge fom the factory
There are as many methods as modelers and others may add more, but this shoud give you a basic idea. IMO you will need to work out your own preferences so you just have to try something
all the best
Steffen
First: thanks for correctly writing the type! I have seen so much misuse that the small typo (the "B" should be capital) is neglectable
As for the camo .. you cannot do it without some work! I use these paper plans as guide and starting from the lightest colour (in general) airbrush and mask until it is done. My tape of choice is the kabuki style tape from Tamiya and Aizu. For some straight areas I sometimes used 3M low tack/ "frosted" tape.
Others lay frisket film or other translucient masking film on the paper and draw/ cut the pattern. If you have soft edge camo, you could cut out the paper as mask and attach it with blue tack (or similar stuff) to the model as it is slightly above the surface you will get a bit of overspray and thus a soft demarcation ... Lw splinter pattern was hard edge fom the factory
There are as many methods as modelers and others may add more, but this shoud give you a basic idea. IMO you will need to work out your own preferences so you just have to try something
all the best
Steffen
filthysanchez
Victoria, Australia
Joined: May 24, 2009
KitMaker: 6 posts
AeroScale: 2 posts
Joined: May 24, 2009
KitMaker: 6 posts
AeroScale: 2 posts
Posted: Monday, July 06, 2009 - 09:29 PM UTC
thanks
stonar
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 04:33 AM UTC
I've done this by copying the masks onto regular paper,cutting them out and then wetting them. You can't apply them all at the same time! I sprayed the entire upper surface with the lighter colour.Once dry laid the wet paper (really quite wet) mask on the model and then blew away any excess water drops before spraying the darker colour. I'm not sure what scheme you are doing but this worked fine for a hard edged 70/71 splinter scheme.
Steve
Steve
discordian
New Jersey, United States
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
AeroScale: 95 posts
Joined: May 28, 2009
KitMaker: 239 posts
AeroScale: 95 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 09:39 AM UTC
I need abit of stuka help too, if you don't mind me tacking on...
I'm using a 1:48 Stuka Ju-87G to mess around with weathering techniques with oil paints and such. So far I've made it pretty grimey in the recesses and tried exhaust stains and probably overdid both. *shrug*
But how about chipped paint: What was this bird made from? And where would the paint be most likely to chip on a tank buster?
I'm using a 1:48 Stuka Ju-87G to mess around with weathering techniques with oil paints and such. So far I've made it pretty grimey in the recesses and tried exhaust stains and probably overdid both. *shrug*
But how about chipped paint: What was this bird made from? And where would the paint be most likely to chip on a tank buster?
stonar
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 11:34 AM UTC
I profess absolutely no expertise and I'm sure someone will be able to give you better info but here's my two bobs worth!
I've looked at a few "Stuka" pictures with this in mind. Most wear appears to be on the wing root walkways with associated scuffing on the fuselage sides. Presumably this is from crew access and maybe ground crew leaning in to help with harnesses etc. Also ground crew stood on the spats over the wheels to access the engine and the top of these is often quite worn.The leading edge of the wing, at the root ,often appears worn, I suspect crew may have slid off the wing in this area. I read somewhere (but I'm b**gered if I can remember where) that high traffic areas were primed in RLM 02, so I guess this would show through before the aluminium skin. Everything else seems to be general wear and tear around access panels,filler caps and so on.
Cheers
Steve
I've looked at a few "Stuka" pictures with this in mind. Most wear appears to be on the wing root walkways with associated scuffing on the fuselage sides. Presumably this is from crew access and maybe ground crew leaning in to help with harnesses etc. Also ground crew stood on the spats over the wheels to access the engine and the top of these is often quite worn.The leading edge of the wing, at the root ,often appears worn, I suspect crew may have slid off the wing in this area. I read somewhere (but I'm b**gered if I can remember where) that high traffic areas were primed in RLM 02, so I guess this would show through before the aluminium skin. Everything else seems to be general wear and tear around access panels,filler caps and so on.
Cheers
Steve
mvfrog
California, United States
Joined: August 25, 2008
KitMaker: 369 posts
AeroScale: 104 posts
Joined: August 25, 2008
KitMaker: 369 posts
AeroScale: 104 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 - 11:57 AM UTC
Another thing you can try later is to apply rubber cement to the back of the paper 'stencils' to make a frisket that will stick, but is easily removable, and somewhat repositionable. Any cement residue is easily removable from the project and does not leave marks, etc. That's what we used to use when I was learning the airbrush in art school back 'before there were clear plastic parts.'
Try it some time,
Matt
Try it some time,
Matt
stonar
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 - 11:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Another thing you can try later is to apply rubber cement to the back of the paper 'stencils' to make a frisket that will stick, but is easily removable, and somewhat repositionable. Any cement residue is easily removable from the project and does not leave marks, etc. That's what we used to use when I was learning the airbrush in art school back 'before there were clear plastic parts.'
Try it some time,
Matt
I like that a lot Matt. I'll definitely give it a go next time paper masks are involved.
Steve