I need an offer from this list
http://pla.gr/catalog/index.php?cPath=2_23_76&sort=4a&filter_id=24

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I've already got 2 airbrushes
http://pla.gr/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_23_76&products_id=1699
For applaying in big surfaces

http://pla.gr/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_23_76&products_id=1700
For "details"

Now I need to tell me which airbrush from the list above

I need to find a FINE airbrush for difficult camo's (such as german ww2 )

Cheers Nick

The airbrush that I have that is capable of doing the 'finest' work in dots or lines is the Paasche AB. It also takes a bit of practice, and in fact may be overkill. Check out the tech specs, and make a decision. I also have one of the Iwata airbrushes (i can't remember which one) that has the MAC valve on it, and it gives some great control in the way of adjusting and fine tuning the air delivery. Take a look at one of those as well. Or, you could put a MAC valve on a fine airbrush from another manufacturer (Iwata makes a separate MAC Valve, if my memory serves me) and adjust your other brush. Lots of options; one decision maker. I think that control of the air delivery system is where the differences are going to be in the near future. I don't know whether this has been of any help. Let me know. Best wishes in your decision,
Matt

Hi Nick

I've got several airbrushes and I've used the Eclipse HP-BS that's on your list for several years and it's a lovely airbrush. But, rather going along with what Matt says, properly set up, your existing BD-800 looks like it should be able to give very good results too.

It's a common mistake (and don't get me wrong - I've made it too! ) to believe that "The Ultimate Answer" is always the next, more expensive piece of equipment. That is a never ending quest. Fair enough if you just love buying gadgets - I'm the first to admit, there's no fun like a new toy! But check out my Review of the Premi-Air G35. It isn't quite as good as my Iwata or Harder & Becker, but it costs a 1/4 of the price(!) - and if I'm honest, I doubt that anyone looking at one of my finished models would be able to tell which of my airbrushes I'd used...

I think, somehwere in all that waffle,what I'm trying to say is - learn to get the most out of the equipment you have before you reach for your wallet, or you could end up very disappointed. If you're unhappy with the results you're getting, check your BD-800 is really clean and not damaged in any way - and, like Matt says, so much depends on controlling the air-flow properly. Just getting a compressor with a regulator a few years ago was an eye-opener for me in terms of finishing - and the external MAC valve is something I now definitely want to try with all my airbrushes.

All the best

Rowan

My BD-800 works great, is ok.
My BD-138 too

Thanks (both) for your help

Is the Iwata eclipse HB-BS good with difficult camo's ???

What is MAC valve ???

Cheers Nick

Hi again Nick

The HB-BS is beautiful quality and should last a lifetime's modelling if properly maintained (like all Iwata airbrushes, it comes with a 10 year warranty - which gives you an idea of the company's faith in their products). It can spray a line less than 1mm, so it's capable of painting challenging camouflage patterns like Luftwaffe and Regia Aeronautica mottles or "mirror waves" and "smoke rings", but to do that, you'll need a properly controllable air supply and correctly thinned paint - and of course, practice.

The MAC valve is like having a regulator fitted to the airbrush instead of the compressor. It allows very quick and precise changes of air pressure for different finishes or different types of paint. On some Iwata airbrushes the MAC valve is built-in (it's the "knob" under the front of the airbrush), but they do an external MAC valve that you can fit to other types of airbrush.

All the best

Rowan

Thank you very much

Cheers Nick

http://www.migproductionsforums.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=77&products_id=446&osCsid=8skq1s4q33j98o5teq3l43ubs5

Is that airbrush good for what I want ??

Cheers Nick

Hi Nick

It looks nice, but there aren't any specifications on the page in that link. I rather think it's another re-branded Chinese airbrush - in which case you may well be able to find the same thing cheaper elsewhere. If that's true, I wouldn't like to predict that it's much better than your BD-800. But that's just a guess - has anybody tried one?

If you want a quality airbrush - you really can't go wrong with the Iwata's that you suggested originally.

But you've never told us what you use for an air supply. It could well be that you'd be wiser to spend money there than on the airbrush. If you don't have a properly controllable air supply, you'll never get the results you're seeking.

All the best

Rowan

An other question by me

Is the werther-20 a good fine airbrush??

Is it double functional, interior mix??

http://www.kalfakis.gr/aSCALEMODELS/offers/1START_page_offers.htm


Cheers Nick

Nick, yes that is double action and interior mix. It looks like it may be made by the same people as the Premi-air G35, but with a larger paint reservoir and a closed end rather than cut-away (cut-away allows you to put back the needle manually without taking the end off). The name suggests it may be a 0.20mm nozzle (the G35 is 0.35mm).

That price looks a bit high for a chinese unbranded airbrush- the G35 sells for around £35 in UK. Other than being gravity-fed, and maybe a bit better quality feel, it probably won't give any better results than you BD-800.

I have the even cheaper BD-128, and the G35. Both (and I guess any other airbrush) rely on the paint mix and air pressure match being right.

Although the G35 feels better made (the needle and nozzle especially are better made and easier to maintain), the paint quality when the BD-128 is clean with well thinned paint is exactly comparable.

Thanks for your reply Ben

Cheers Nick