Hi all,

I've read various articles on preshading and the method i'm going to use is as follows:

Before the base coat applying a thin line of black paint to all rivets and joins in the plane.

Apply base coat/colours

Varnish

Finally wash the plane with a weathering solution.


My question is, will the preshading show through the base colour? If not, how can I get it to?

Hi Luke

Basically, you only apply light coats of the base colour, so you don't completely obliterate the pre-shading. I do it in stages, judging the results as I go, but I normally expect to apply at least 2 or 3 light coats of the base colour, thinning them more each time.

All the best

Rowan

Thank you Rowan

I'm using a Tamiya spray paint for the base coat of the ME-109. How would I go about thinning this? It's easy to avoid going over the black lines completely with my airbrush for the other colours but what would you recommend I do with a spray paint?

Thanks.

Hi again Luke

You can use Tamiya's own brand thinners or Isopropyl Alcohol (basically the same stuff). Cellulose thinners also works excellently for airbrushing Tamiya acrylics (note: it doesn't work many other brands of acrylics) and gives a lovely smooth finish that adheres to the plastic better.

You should certainly cover the black lines with the base colour or they'll look far too strong (in fact, many modellers don't use black at all for just this reason) - the result should look like a subtle shadowing along the panel line.

All the best

Rowan

Hmm, thanks again Rowan.

I don't think i'm too confident with thinning layers.

Do you think if I apply the pre shade, apply a base coat, pre shade again over the top, then another base coat, it will have the same effect?

Sorry to be a pest!

Hi Luke

There should be no need - and if you do that, you'll probably just go round in circles. If you just apply normally mixed paint in a light coat across the whole area, you'll definitely see the pre-shading showing through. If it looks too strong, lightly spray coat of the base colour. I think you're worrying too much.

All the best

Rowan

Hi Luke. Rowan has a good idea of checking as you go. When I apply the primary colors after preshading, I start in the middle of the panel and work my way out to the panel lines. Key is, take your time and apply it little by little. Hope this helps, Wingman out.

The other thing if you want a bit more control is decant the spray paint to you airbrush.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=com.ubuntu%3Aen-GB%3Aofficial&hs=yMz&q=decant+spray+can+airbrush&btnG=Search&meta=&aq=f&oq=

Read up on it with the google links and watch the brett green video.

Another link
http://www.escalemodels.com/Features/rattle_cans.htm

Hi Luke

Sorry - I missed your line about using an aerosol! I would probably do as JP suggests and decant the paint to your airbrush (thinning it, if need be, as we talked about earlier).

All the best

Rowan

Oh excellent! I didn't know about decanting. At least that will give me finer control with the airbrush...

Thanks very much guys, you've been a massive help.

Hi all,

Sorry to bump such an old thread...

I took a big break from modelling after getting frustrated with my ME-109, and have just come back to it, to explain my delay in replying.

I've just decanted AS-5 (Luftwaffe Blue) for the first time, it went suprisingly well. No mess, easy job and didn't boil over. It's just sat on the work top bubbling away, i'll leave it all night.

A quick question though, is AS paint acrylic or is it enamel paint? Is it ok to spray through my airbrush?

Many thanks.

I don't know, but I guess the Tamiya aerosols are acrylic. Should airbrush fine, especially if you are leaving it for a while after decanting (the more volatile solvents will evaporate). Airbrushes with non-teflon seals will be damaged by prolonged exposure to cellulose thinners and other harsh solvents- should be fine as long as you don't soak the airbrush for long periods.

As regards the pre-shading, I don't know what scale you are working in, but in 1/72 I use a similar technique to wingman- in that I don't just start putting paint evenly over the model.


After the pre-shade, I spray around the inside of the panels with the colour- this thins the panel shading to a tighter region (I don't have the airbrush control (or the time) to make very fine pre-shading lines in the first place). Obviously, in 1/32 the pre-shading lines are proportionally much thinner, so this step is not applicable.

This technique also leaves a pale patch of undercoat in the middle of the panels. I then move further from the model, and apply light mists over everything- very, very slowly building up paint until the panel looks like it is all painted one colour, but with slight tonal variation. Too little colour over the pre-shading, and the model has a patchwork look.
I think I learnt this from a Youtube Video

Here is the Testors Pre-shading video on YouTube.

And one about painting over pre-shading.