Hello everybody!
I'm having a little trouble regularly creating a good consistency when thinning enamels. I'm aware of the correct ratio, but I think my trouble lies with getting the paint out of the tinlet.
I used pipettes at the moment, but after my first measure the pippette is then coated with paint making it impossible to see where future draws of paint come up to.
Do you simply discard each pipette after a visit to your paint, do you clean it out with thinners, or do you measure paint from tinlets (14ml) using measuring spoons or some other tool?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Harry
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Getting paint out of tinlets
harry_1983
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:21 AM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:29 AM UTC
FWIW, I use the plastic squeeze pipettes that Testors or whoever sells. I use one for paint and another one for thinner and clean them out after every session. I go by 'drops', not exact volumes. Seems to work OK
Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 05:31 AM UTC
This type of pipette http://www.testors.com/product/69364/50642C/_/Pipettes
harry_1983
England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 07:11 AM UTC
Hey Mark,
Thanks for the reply, using drops answers my question perfectly, thank you!
Thanks for the reply, using drops answers my question perfectly, thank you!
McIvan
New Zealand
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 08:13 AM UTC
The other solution is to use something like Vallejo paints, which have a dropper as part of the bottle. Not enamels, mind you, but great paint nonetheless.
drabslab
European Union
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 11:12 AM UTC
I use syringes without the needle
first I fill it with the needed amount of thinner, then continue with the paint; it starts already mixing in the syringe and it mixes further when pushing it out.
it is perfect to see how much paint and thinner you take as it comes with a scale.
I am now trying to make some notes on how much paint I use for a particular surface size.
it almost cleans itself, and it dissasembles easily for the rest.
but on some syringes you have to make the hole a bit bigger to let the paint pass fast enough.
and if the paint clogs up the tiny hole of the syringe it will certainly clog up the airbrush as well
first I fill it with the needed amount of thinner, then continue with the paint; it starts already mixing in the syringe and it mixes further when pushing it out.
it is perfect to see how much paint and thinner you take as it comes with a scale.
I am now trying to make some notes on how much paint I use for a particular surface size.
it almost cleans itself, and it dissasembles easily for the rest.
but on some syringes you have to make the hole a bit bigger to let the paint pass fast enough.
and if the paint clogs up the tiny hole of the syringe it will certainly clog up the airbrush as well
Phil_H
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: November 10, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 01:08 AM UTC
$4.75 for 5? Ouch... You know that you can buy these in bulk packs of 500 from lab supply companies for around $20.00-$25.00?
If you know someone who works in a lab or a hospital, they may be able to grab a handful for you.
Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 01:44 AM UTC
I just use a cocktail stick ... stir it up, tilt and lift. How much enamel paint do you need at a time?
3 or 4 times "lifts" like this gives enough to paint a figure uniform, when a little thinner is added. Ive used the same 20 or so cocktail sticks this last 5 years!
For armor I do the same, but maybe a few more "lifts". When thinned I add to the air-brush with a pipette.
3 or 4 times "lifts" like this gives enough to paint a figure uniform, when a little thinner is added. Ive used the same 20 or so cocktail sticks this last 5 years!
For armor I do the same, but maybe a few more "lifts". When thinned I add to the air-brush with a pipette.
Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 09:07 PM UTC
Hi there
I'm with Frank - I just use the cocktail stick or length of sprue that I've stirred the paint with. It's straightforward to count the drops of paint for thinning, and clean-up is much less fuss than using a pipette or paintbrush to transfer the paint.
All the best
Rowan
I'm with Frank - I just use the cocktail stick or length of sprue that I've stirred the paint with. It's straightforward to count the drops of paint for thinning, and clean-up is much less fuss than using a pipette or paintbrush to transfer the paint.
All the best
Rowan
Vapour
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 21, 2009
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Joined: December 21, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 08:48 PM UTC
I actually pre-mix my paint. I'm still working on my first ever model but figured out quickly that getting paint into the airbrush was going to be a pain, so I bought a load of empty Vallejo-style empty dropper bottles. I thin whatever paint I'm using in these and then it's ready to go for subsequent applications.
drabslab
European Union
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 09:36 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I actually pre-mix my paint. I'm still working on my first ever model but figured out quickly that getting paint into the airbrush was going to be a pain, so I bought a load of empty Vallejo-style empty dropper bottles. I thin whatever paint I'm using in these and then it's ready to go for subsequent applications.
my experience is that pre-mixed paints go to waste when they stay in a bottle for a couple of days
anyobne else?
Vapour
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 10:31 AM UTC
They seem fine to me, I just give them a shake.
Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 11:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I find that enamels do as the thinner starts to separate and then congeal after a week or so. Tamiya paints don't but do sometimes need a little more isopropanol to get it back to the right consistency for spraying.Quoted TextI actually pre-mix my paint. I'm still working on my first ever model but figured out quickly that getting paint into the airbrush was going to be a pain, so I bought a load of empty Vallejo-style empty dropper bottles. I thin whatever paint I'm using in these and then it's ready to go for subsequent applications.
my experience is that pre-mixed paints go to waste when they stay in a bottle for a couple of days
anyobne else?
Vapour
England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: December 21, 2009
KitMaker: 19 posts
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Joined: December 21, 2009
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 07:46 PM UTC
Ah, that could be it then - I've never used enamels.
Grumpyoldman
_ADVISOR
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 09:17 PM UTC
I use old fashion glass eye droppers from the drug store. Easy to clean, last for years.
Although I also have a pretty good collection of the plastic types shown, I use them mostly with a little cutting and fitting to fit the openings on my airbrushes for fast flush outs with thinners.
Although I also have a pretty good collection of the plastic types shown, I use them mostly with a little cutting and fitting to fit the openings on my airbrushes for fast flush outs with thinners.
Posted: Tuesday, January 26, 2010 - 09:09 AM UTC
I used the glass eyedroppers for years. But, the thinner vapors ate up the rubber bulb and I managed to chip the large end I don't know what I paid for the Testors droppers, they seem to come in every paint set and "building set" they sell. Not sure how I got the ones I have.
I've got some old syringes from but I don’t have a steady enough hand hot to get the markings covered with paint when I'm drawing it out
I've seen a couple of sources that suggest discarding thinned paint after use as the thinner will break down the carrier over time.
I've got some old syringes from but I don’t have a steady enough hand hot to get the markings covered with paint when I'm drawing it out
I've seen a couple of sources that suggest discarding thinned paint after use as the thinner will break down the carrier over time.