I am going to give aluminium finish a try, I am going to use modlemaster metalizer with sealers ECT, it is a rradily available brand.Why would one want to buff a metal finish? modelmaster offers buffable version, more authentic look?

Sorry have you ever used Metalizer before?If not dont! just did two P-38's with it and I will never use it again even with a coat of sealer from TESTORS and a coat of future it still is totally un-workable had to free hand with air brush all the trim glare panels etc.slide your finger the wrong way and boom TOUCH UP.The stuff is CRAP sorry just angry about the product.Careful buffing it as if there is ANYTHING on the cloth TOUCHUP.


Build On,
Justin

Justin ir right , don't waste your time with these paints . I have used them before in the past . You have to wear cotton gloves when working with them or else you will leave finger prints in your finish and have metal fingers , paint comes off that easy . And when you use the sealer it dulls the finish and takes away that nicely polished shine . I highly reconmmend you trying the Alclad line of metal finishes . No need to seal and donesn't rub off on to your fingers . And no need to buff !

But if you are going the MM way wear gloves when buffing ( with a very soft rag ) and when doing the deacls . Trim as close to the decal as you can for the carrier film will show big time . You can seal the deacl with any coat you want , but it is reconmmend that you spray the deacls with flat coat or clear before cutting them of the sheet . This will save you a lot of time on going back and hand brushing the decals later on .

Just my two cents.

I wear cotton gloves when handling all my NMF models, just to prevent fingers prints.

I don't find MM Metalizer to be as fragile as some report, this my be to the fact I apply the paint too heavily. I do like the fact that I can vary texture quite a bit by buffing with MM, but it is true you wind up with metal fingers if you aren't careful.

Alclad is and excellent product and you can get texture variation by preshading and using different shades of Alclad. To be honest I prefer MM, for it's simplicity one coat than buff to texture, but that's just my opinion.

Calling MM crap or saying it's not worth your time is a little strong, in my opinion. All the texturing you see in the following was done by buffing MM.



The following was given an overall buffing with a soft cloth (old t-shirt)


This effect could have been more readily achieved using Alclad but I opted to fill my work shop with dust from SNJ Buffing Powder.

I will go ahead and order the Alcad, was trying to avoid the wait,I do not doubt your advice CRS,great job, however I would like a lower risk...thanks to all

my other model, my lovely wife..yes this is off subject

Is she going to get a NMF too?

I've got a b-29 in 1/48 and I will probably go with alclad with. I think for me I would rather mask different finishes. I've heard good and bad with MM and would rather just play it safe also.

mask different finishes?

You can not mask panels with metalizer so he is not going with the suff.




Build On,
Justin

so, I cannot mask off alcad? it ruins the finish? that makes things difficult, so how do I airbrush on the other colors..olive drab ECT? airbrush on olive drab 1st?my goodness what have am I getting into here

Yeah I would guess you have to do the other colors first...

You CAN mask over alclad after about 15 minutes (24 hours to be on the safe side) I've been using alclad for years and never had a problem with residue marks or the finish lifting. If I've read this right everyone here is saying you can't mask the MM Metallizers

You can mask MM metalizers too by using strips of damp (not wet) paper, but best to lay down things like olive drab glare panels first, then mask them and apply the metalizer (then mask for the other colors of metalizer with the damp paper strips)

I started using MM Metalizers years ago when they were the only game in town. I quickly found out that the paint from MM is indeed fragile, but not unworkable. I do 2 or 3 thin coats of paint, mask (quite well) with thin strips of damp paper towels and always wear cotton gloves when handling the model. I only used the Metalizer sealer on one model. It dulled the finish and made everything look like silver paint. After that, I buffed it, or not, depending on the effect I wanted. The paint actually seems to cure out at around 14 days. After that time I could handle the model without worrying about finger prints or flaking paint.

When SNJ aluminium laquer came out I tried that. It has all the good qualities of MM and none of the headaches. I find it better than the new Allclad because you don't need a colour specific primer before you shoot it. 2 coats of SNJ, buff it with the supplied buffing powder, or not, and done. 24 hours later, mask over it or paint over it, no problems.

So that's it MM is readily available, but needs TLC, SNJ, now made by Hawkeye Hobbies, can be gotten at most online hobby shops as can Allclad...choice is yours

Just a point of clarification...SnJ Spray Metal is an enamel, NOT a lacquer.

I loved using SnJ and the polishing powders (especially when they get everywhere ) but I find them hard to come by here in the UK now a days.

Hawkeye do you have a UK/EU distributor?