Help!!! I just noticed a seam line running the entire length of my canopy and to top it off it's right in the middle!!! It's frustrating because it's on a Hasegawa kit that I bought for their quality!

How do I remove it and still get an acceptable canopy?

Thanks, Hellbent

You'll need to gently sand out (yes, sand) the seam by using gradually increasing grit number (less coarse) padded sanding sticks, or sanding pads. The padded nature helps reduce the likelihood of creating flat spots. Then, after the seam is gone, polish the canopy to get a uniform clear surface. Toothpaste or polishing compound will do the trick. Finally, dip the canopy (the whole thing, all clear parts) in Future acrylic floor polish, set on a paper towel to dry for a crystal clear finish. The following links will help give you a better idea of how to proceed.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT037_Polishing_Canopies/tnt037.htm
http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video13bg_1.htm

Don’t be intimidated by this sanding and polishing procedure, it works. Just be careful not to sand out the scribed canopy framing.

Good hunting.

The reason there's a seam is that Hasegawa employs multi-part moulds to render certain canopies which bulge outwards at the sides. This would not be possible with traditional two-part moulds. The downside is that it leaves a seam down the centreline.

yup, like it or not, that seam is actually a result of their quality. Without that seam, the complex shape of the canopy would not be able to be accurately reproduced.

the only thing i would add to Grip84's instructions is to start with 600 grit (or, at most 400 grit) to remove the seam - starting with anything courser will cause a much longer process of polishing out the sanding scratches. much better to spend a bit more time starting with an initial finer grit than a LOT more time later trying to polish out sanding scratches.

Also, when sanding, do not use undue pressure, let the abrasive fo the work. Too much pressure causes flexing, which may result in stress cracks which will be (a) visible and (b) impossible to repair/remove.

i have been in similar siuations:

i put a piece of tape on either side of the seam leaving +/- 1 mm on each side of the seam
. this to avoid scratches in the whole canopy

With a very sharp (new) rasor blade I have carefully scratched away the seam (which was raised, not sunck)

this may be better than sanding because the rasor blade only removes the seam without scratching the rest of the surface.

remove the tape

then a drop of tamiya polishing compound on a piece of cloth and 5 mnutes polishing and the canopy shines.

but be careful not to break the canopy while polishing

OK... Take a deep breath, it can be done.
I had an older kit where the canopy was wider than the fuselage. After a lot of online encouragement, I tackled it. I found some 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper at a local auto parts store and a set of sanding pads online (Micro Mark, Model Expo?) that went up to 12,000 grit. Sanded it smooth to the fuselage and then started working my way through the various grits. It looked like hell at first but eventually all the marks polished out and it looked better than new. I think I hit it up with some Novus polish and Future to finish it off. Did lose the canopy frames in the process, but on this kit it didn’t matter.

Maybe find a new canopy from squadron.

After sanding dip your canopy in future and it will be perfecto



Build On,
Justin

Thanks Everyone! I appreciate all the tips! The canopy belong to a USMC Harrier II and now I see what you guys were talking about where the sides bulge out.

That is so interesting to know the process quality molding actually leads to that seam! I guess I assumed the worst as this is my first aircraft in probably 15 years and I've heard so many positive things about Hasegawa. The rest of the kit was great and fit was excellent compared to the old Revell kits I did back in the day!

Thanks, Hellbent

One of the best materials, for this, is Micromesh; it's produced in the U.S., so should be fairly easy to find. It can be used dry, but I prefer it wet; however, it must be used in the way that the manufacturers recommend, which is to use each successive grade at 90 degrees to the previous. I've sanded etched fingerprints out of perspex with it, and my set of sheets is over 10 years old, now. It is possible to get Micromesh in four grades on a single sanding stick, which makes the job even easier.
Edgar