The Splinter in the Mind's Eye
I. Realism vs. Scale Realism
How do you escalate from ‘Nice’ to “WOW!” First you have to decide that you want to improve, especially if it’s a stretch of your talents. This may be a large step for some but recognizing you want to improve your skills or technique is the first step. As a modeler you want someone to see an image of the original item in a scaled down version. The oldest means we have of this is photography. So looking at a two dimensional image is the basis on which you can construct your developing skills.

The Splinter in the Minds Eye of a modeler is that intangible and sometimes inescapable concern that your mind readily tells you that an object is or is not a model. But before you start singing the Metaphysical Blues, there are ways that you can recondition your view point. Start by looking at the real thing or at least photos of it. Focus on the finer details and the relative size of each object or fitting. Next, talk to other modelers. Internet sites, model clubs and contests all provide excellent opportunities to hear other modelers relate their insights and techniques. Finally, read about other modelers and what they do. The vast amount of publications available to the average modeler is at an all time high. Personally I recommend anything by ComSam Publishing. They cater to the modeler by supplying them with all the best information.

It is just a model, until the builder begins to pour their talents into the kit’s construction. What your asking yourself here is, can I do better? When your finished with a build does it look like a dime store toy? Again look at some of your past works and ask your self, what about this is out of proportion? What details are too large to be believable? Does this look like the original full sized machine? Remember that even a good photograph image only gives the viewer a general impression of the original machine from one vantage point. What you want to do is create a striking 3 dimensional image that compels the viewer to enjoy the work you have done.

Don’t be misled, no amount of detail can correct a lifeless composition. Also understand that not every color scheme is eye catching or interesting. Monotones have highlights and shadows. Can you duplicate this by studying how light effects a surface? The answer is Yes! What does the eye see? Your brain adjusts for changes in light and surface orientations. With practiced painting applications of highlights and pre-shading can you create an illusion that makes the observer think that he sees what he ought to see on the full scale version.

What makes it believable? Understanding the term ‘Relative Scale’ applies to more than just painting. It also involves the size of an object compared to the other items around it. Even their gap or positioning from one another tells the viewer something. Also Subtle effects do more than drastic changes. Balance your work with the realization that you have limitations that need to be dealt with. Time, eyesight and dexterity are your personal hurdles that can impair an enjoyable build. The tools you have to compensate for these deficiencies are planning, magnification, tweezers.

The real aim is to please yourself. Have you achieved the goal set for yourself? Are you happy with the result or do you want to improve your skills? If you decide that you want to go a step further then look at what are you willing to put into a project. Remember that cost is not a good indicator of the quality of a kit. Great art work on a box top belies a poorly manufactured kit. Stick with the better or more reliable manufacturers. Evaluate the kit for what you want out of it. Ask yourself ‘...will it need additions, what will you have to scratch build or buy to make it right? Even the oldest name companies put out a bad kit once in a while. Improving one of these will make you a better modeler. Eventually you will ask, are you building for yourself or are you building to compete with others? Contests will allow you to compete with other modelers but you will learn quickly to keep your build simple to start. Put a short paragraph with a description of your work beside the model. Contest judges can’t read your mind-and sometimes have lost theirs.

The place to start is with the kit. No kit, no build. We have come a long way from yesterday’s toys. These model kits were plastic only, oversized detailed and had few parts. Today‘s kit is multi media , better scale details and has an average of 3 to 4 times as many parts. A model use to begin with a carved wooden version then the mold was made from steel and carved in matching half reliefs. The industry is no longer “computer aided” it is fast becoming “computer controlled.”

Basics, Basics , Basics!!!! Begin by erasing seams, fill holes and union seams and gaps, thin down edges, for a better scale appearance and pay close attention to alignment. One of the sharpest modelers I know told me that he spent most of his time cleaning up a kit. Erasing flaws, sink marks, pin ejector marks, mold seams, flash, mis-mating parts re-cutting misaligned strut holes and etc. Its up to you to say when you’ve invested enough time in your project.

When sanding union seams or gaps protect the detail you want with masking tape. ‘Truing to Square’ is the process of checking and rechecking alignment planes. This just makes the build more life like in the end. During this process you may fine that you have to re-drill strut locator holes While real aircraft took abuse the only reason for twisted wings, empennage or etc. is a wreck. Keep it straight and plumb using a temporary jig made from children’s plastic ‘Lego’ blocks.

Repeating my earlier statement, learn to balance your work with the realization that you have limitations that need to be dealt with. Time, eyesight and dexterity are your personal hurdles that can impair an enjoyable build. In the planning stages use the kit instructions to document what you have done, will do, wont do by colour coding your steps with pastel high-lighters. Pink=complete, yellow=delete Green=scratch-build/alter & blue= replace with an existing kit item. Magnify by using an ‘Optivisor’, to bring your work closer and you make your problems small by making minute corrections. Using tweezers and needle nose pliers / cutters helps you place a part exactly where it needs to be.

Understanding Relative Scale begs the question, ‘..is everything on the model in relative scale or proportional to the whole piece? Photo references are the answer. Start at the library, aviation specialty stores the internet or hobby shops. Their books, magazines and after market decals should get you started. Is the gap between the wings too deep? Are the struts to thick? It’s the gap from spreader bar to cowling correct. The over all ‘sit’ of the model compels the brain to view the object as ‘similar’ to the images its familiar with.

Piece by piece going from nose to tail helps you examine the over all proportion and type of modifications that you want to attempt. Propellers can be laminated from light & dark woods and carved to shape. Even painting the kit item to simulate the laminations is relatively easy. Motors should have details like wiring, nuts & bolts. Various shades of metal is a subtle effect that can be very convincing. Don’t go too far with the dirt & grime simulations.

For cockpits, planning is the whole key. Often sidewalls are too thick and interior pieces are jammed together that in reality were separated. You may need to carve out the cockpit interior for better simulations. Fuselage/ Wings are critical and need to be represented accurately. Achieving wood grain simulation and fabric character in scale is another hurdle for building a unique model. Most often the manufacturers do a reasonable job of replicating these concerns but may need to be toned down by gentle sanding as they tend to be overstated. The reason for this is the manufacturer try’s to envision the piece as finally being painted and accentuating the details will allow them to be prominent even under a thick coat of paint. Even wheels need attention. Kit items always have that annoying seam but are not as difficult to deal with as some might lead you to believe. To use it as is, with an airbrush go to an art or office supply store and pick up a circle template. To brush paint it use a 01 or 00 brush and paint the outer rim first then fill in the rest to the center. You can paint them in 15 minutes and make people think it took hours. Also if your machine is to be displayed parked note the angle of the tires. Many are slightly toed in at the top.

Painting or its application tend to fend off younger modelers. The old Revell and Airfix knew this and all of their old line of 1/72 kits were in colored plastic. For that matter so did Aurora. Today each paint application system (acrylics vs enamels). has its own pros & cons. Once you learn to work with acrylics you will find that they are worth the time spent. Concerning flats vs gloss in smaller scales I tend to use very little gloss unless its to put down a uniform surface for decal purposes. I’m a firm believer in the flat to semi gloss look for aircraft kits. Sooner or later you should buy an airbrush. The simpler the operation the better. Brush painting is an art form in and of itself. Use the company’s recommended thinner for the paint you have chosen. I have my paint bottles in a rack on their side and I turn them ½ turn about once a week. The color has been applied to the tops of the bottle cap so they can be readily identified. Avoid contamination with other solvents.

RIGGING
First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings.

Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.

When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.

The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry.

Struts are the bane and pain. The battle-cry of the neophyte modeler - “I can’t do that, it has all those struts!” Several methods are used with struts. I will either replace kit items with modified brass sections or put brass rod in all the ends of the kit struts. This reinforces your work but also gives your struts an adjustable (by bending) pivot that works to your advantage, especially when your kit has dihedral, forward or reverse stagger. When you have all strut locator holes in the right places and the cabane struts are fixed at the right angles, everything else should go great.

Once the basics are done well, then the details can make the difference. The mirror trick is the modeler’s method of checking themself. Holding a finished model up to a mirror simply forces you to take a critical look at your work. Seeing it from a different perspective looking for flaws that you can correct. It ain’t over til you say it is.

Well written Stephen and well put

Not just for WW 1 subjects . This can be transferred into all aircraft modelling as well .

Hey Stephen!
That's a BIG thred! I need to prin it and read it offline, but I already know it will be instructive.
I'll leave a more detailed comment as soon as I read it.

ciao
Edo

this thread is screaming:

TURN ME INTO A FEATURE PLEASE