hai,
There are systesm to make decals with a laserprinter and special decal paper.
Does anyone have experience with this?
If yes, does it really work and do these decals remain fine for a long time or do the colors start fading after a couple of years?
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
home made decals
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
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Joined: September 28, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 01:09 AM UTC
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 01:42 AM UTC
Hi there !
Testors makes a home decal system which includes the paper ( for ink jet ) and they also have a decal sealant which you spray over the decals once they have been printed . Their paper comes in clear or white . You can get decal paper for a laser print can't recall the name of it .
As for having the colours fade over time it will depend on what type of ink your printer uses .
But I don't think you will have to really worry about that to much .
Testors makes a home decal system which includes the paper ( for ink jet ) and they also have a decal sealant which you spray over the decals once they have been printed . Their paper comes in clear or white . You can get decal paper for a laser print can't recall the name of it .
As for having the colours fade over time it will depend on what type of ink your printer uses .
But I don't think you will have to really worry about that to much .
jphillips
Arizona, United States
Joined: February 25, 2007
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Joined: February 25, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 02:11 AM UTC
Hi,
It's important that you use inkjet paper for inkjet printers, and laser paper for laser printers. Sprue Brothers, Scalehobbyist.com, and Flightdecs all sell the Bare Metal Foil/Experts' Choice brand of decal paper, which is excellent. An eBay seller named Carol's Creations of Utah sells a brand called Bel's for around four dollars a sheet, including shipping. You might find it at your LHS as well, though I doubt it will be any cheaper.
After you draw or import your images (I use Paint), print them onto the shiny side of the paper. The paper is pretreated to take the ink. After it dries, spray it with a gloss varnish (I use the Wal Mart variety; it's just three dollars. Are there Wal Marts in Europe?) Give it two or three good coats. After it dries, you can cut carefully around each decal, drop it in water and let it sit for around a aminute; it won't take long as long to completely moisten as decals usually do. Then you can slide it onto the model surface just as you would any other decal.
There is clear decal paper, and white paper. It can be hard to cut cleanly around the white paper, so I spray on a white background instead. To illustrate, I take a stencil and spray a white circle of the appropriate size, then print my roundel on clear paper (unfortunately, there's no white ink). Then, I just apply it over the white background.
Good luck with your project. If you have any more questions, or run into trouble, just come back and ask. One of us will be glad to help you.
It's important that you use inkjet paper for inkjet printers, and laser paper for laser printers. Sprue Brothers, Scalehobbyist.com, and Flightdecs all sell the Bare Metal Foil/Experts' Choice brand of decal paper, which is excellent. An eBay seller named Carol's Creations of Utah sells a brand called Bel's for around four dollars a sheet, including shipping. You might find it at your LHS as well, though I doubt it will be any cheaper.
After you draw or import your images (I use Paint), print them onto the shiny side of the paper. The paper is pretreated to take the ink. After it dries, spray it with a gloss varnish (I use the Wal Mart variety; it's just three dollars. Are there Wal Marts in Europe?) Give it two or three good coats. After it dries, you can cut carefully around each decal, drop it in water and let it sit for around a aminute; it won't take long as long to completely moisten as decals usually do. Then you can slide it onto the model surface just as you would any other decal.
There is clear decal paper, and white paper. It can be hard to cut cleanly around the white paper, so I spray on a white background instead. To illustrate, I take a stencil and spray a white circle of the appropriate size, then print my roundel on clear paper (unfortunately, there's no white ink). Then, I just apply it over the white background.
Good luck with your project. If you have any more questions, or run into trouble, just come back and ask. One of us will be glad to help you.
drabslab
European Union
Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
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Joined: September 28, 2004
KitMaker: 2,186 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 10:24 AM UTC
thanks a lot for the replies
this hobby is really fantastic, there is always something new
this hobby is really fantastic, there is always something new
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2008
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Posted: Monday, March 01, 2010 - 02:15 AM UTC
I used Experts choice, White Laser. And found it very thick for 1/72(ended up sanding the edges of it!!!)
It took the colour very well though.
Before sanding
The cross is a tamiya decal not the thinnest itself.
After a couple of Future,sand,Future sessions
If you click on the photos you can see in nasty hi-res.
Never tried a clear one, hopefully they would be thinner.
It took the colour very well though.
Before sanding
The cross is a tamiya decal not the thinnest itself.
After a couple of Future,sand,Future sessions
If you click on the photos you can see in nasty hi-res.
Never tried a clear one, hopefully they would be thinner.
Posted: Monday, March 01, 2010 - 02:48 AM UTC
Hi Drabslab
Here's the look at the Crafty Computer Paper system which took a while back. I actually threw out the test pieces when I left London last summer and I noticed that the inks still looked bright, even though they were a few years old (I think they were Canon or Epson).
All the best
Rowan
Here's the look at the Crafty Computer Paper system which took a while back. I actually threw out the test pieces when I left London last summer and I noticed that the inks still looked bright, even though they were a few years old (I think they were Canon or Epson).
All the best
Rowan
SellSword
Indiana, United States
Joined: February 15, 2010
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Joined: February 15, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 02:16 AM UTC
This looks really interesting! I'd like to add a question to this thread... Are there any websites that have marking sets pre-designed for printing on this kind of system?
drabslab
European Union
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KitMaker: 2,186 posts
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Joined: September 28, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, March 25, 2010 - 05:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
This looks really interesting! I'd like to add a question to this thread... Are there any websites that have marking sets pre-designed for printing on this kind of system?
Thansk for raising this
Merlin, TedMamere, do you remember the old proposal for setting up a Digital sources page on aeroscale?