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World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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applying wash
doppelganger
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Idaho, United States
Joined: March 09, 2010
KitMaker: 557 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 01:48 PM UTC
I see that some apply wash by slathering it on then wiping down after dried and others who carefully use capilliary action to flow wash into panel lines then wipe off when dry...whats the difference? the slathering method looks alot easier trying to decide what to do with a Lavochkin la-7. I am thinking about applying a very diluted brown/black wash, how come some modelers use other colors? far as I know scum on planes before it gets on the plane is not blue or yellow or whatever? I looked at all forum advice...I think and cannot find answers Jean Luc brushed the wash all over the model (slathering method) with great results
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 02:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I see that some apply wash by slathering it on then wiping down after dried and others who carefully use capilliary action to flow wash into panel lines then wipe off when dry...whats the difference? the slathering method looks alot easier trying to decide what to do with a Lavochkin la-7. I am thinking about applying a very diluted brown/black wash, how come some modelers use other colors? far as I know scum on planes before it gets on the plane is not blue or yellow or whatever? I looked at all forum advice...I think and cannot find answers Jean Luc brushed the wash all over the model (slathering method) with great results




The difference between the two really isn't that different from each other . Just a different method of applying the wash . The method Jean-Luc uses is the most common and takes less time . This wash is done with acrylics so it doesn't harm the paint under the top coat . A pin wash offers more control on where you want the wash to go and how fine you want the wash .

Most modellers use the black/brown or just black is some case's . Depending on the colour scheme being used , using different shades of colours will high light and add better contrast to the subject being model . Scale effect is the key here . You can even layer different shades of washes to get different results something like a filter aiding in toning down and blending them together .

It really comes down to what your preference is on what method suits you best .
JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Tennessee, United States
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
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Posted: Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 04:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text

...brown/black wash, how come some modelers use other colors? far as I know scum on planes before it gets on the plane is not blue or yellow or whatever?



I think this is artistic license. Sometimes, depending on the color of the surface, these colors extenuate the panel lines better than authentic black/brown/gray, which can 'get lost' in the spectrum. Some modelers feel these unrealistic colors create more of an interest, feel, warmth or chill when applied to a model than black/brown/gray. Two friends (whose names appear multiple times as winners at the past Verlinden MasterCons) use straight red and orange as rust on their armor models because a more authentic color is to muted and does not stimulate the senses.
doppelganger
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Idaho, United States
Joined: March 09, 2010
KitMaker: 557 posts
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Posted: Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 04:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I see that some apply wash by slathering it on then wiping down after dried and others who carefully use capilliary action to flow wash into panel lines then wipe off when dry...whats the difference? the slathering method looks alot easier trying to decide what to do with a Lavochkin la-7. I am thinking about applying a very diluted brown/black wash, how come some modelers use other colors? far as I know scum on planes before it gets on the plane is not blue or yellow or whatever? I looked at all forum advice...I think and cannot find answers Jean Luc brushed the wash all over the model (slathering method) with great results




The difference between the two really isn't that different from each other . Just a different method of applying the wash . The method Jean-Luc uses is the most common and takes less time . This wash is done with acrylics so it doesn't harm the paint under the top coat . A pin wash offers more control on where you want the wash to go and how fine you want the wash .

Most modellers use the black/brown or just black is some case's . Depending on the colour scheme being used , using different shades of colours will high light and add better contrast to the subject being model . Scale effect is the key here . You can even layer different shades of washes to get different results something like a filter aiding in toning down and blending them together .

It really comes down to what your preference is on what method suits you best .

that really clears things up for me, was not sure what a pin wash was, I will try both eventually on different builds, I have some "the detailer" wash I will try and will try pin washes with abteilung oils, thanks for your help
doppelganger
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Idaho, United States
Joined: March 09, 2010
KitMaker: 557 posts
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Posted: Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 04:49 PM UTC
great info.thanks
stonar
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England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 15, 2008
KitMaker: 337 posts
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Posted: Monday, May 10, 2010 - 11:02 PM UTC
I think you are referring to two entirely different washes. The one you would just slap on is a "clay" and water based wash,perhaps the best known are those by Promodeller. You can make your own by grinding down pastel colours and suspending them in water,usually with the addition of a little dishwashing soap to break surface tension.
The other "pin wash" is usually made by making a thin wash of oil paint in a suitable solvent. I use a turpentine type solvent,others use white spirit or even lighter fluid. I'm not sure you'd want to slosh this all over your model!
There are of course other methods and recipes but they usually fall into one of these two categories.
Cheers
Steve
doppelganger
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Idaho, United States
Joined: March 09, 2010
KitMaker: 557 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 05:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I think you are referring to two entirely different washes. The one you would just slap on is a "clay" and water based wash,perhaps the best known are those by Promodeller. You can make your own by grinding down pastel colours and suspending them in water,usually with the addition of a little dishwashing soap to break surface tension.
The other "pin wash" is usually made by making a thin wash of oil paint in a suitable solvent. I use a turpentine type solvent,others use white spirit or even lighter fluid. I'm not sure you'd want to slosh this all over your model!
There are of course other methods and recipes but they usually fall into one of these two categories.
Cheers
Steve

I have MIG pigments that seem to work very well for the slapping on method, the pin washes I intend on purchasing abteilung oils from MIG,I thank you fore your response..very helpful USPS delivered more MIG pigments today....so eight different shades now...cool!
james84
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Roma, Italy
Joined: January 28, 2006
KitMaker: 1,368 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 08:55 PM UTC
Another great solution which works well (at least for me) are Promodeller's washes. Just brush them on, let dry for half an hour and wipe the excess away with kitchen paper.
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