Any tips on using rattle cans and canopies?
I am going to experiment with some of the Tamiya Air spray cans. I was just going mask and spray them I suppose. Would you do this with the canopies on or off the kit? I've done both, but the tape tends to stay on the kit for a long time with mine. Does scrape off easily with a wooden edge if you get a bit of seepage?
Can you decant the paint easily? Probably will need some for touch ups as well....
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Rattle Cans and Canopies
Watimena
South Australia, Australia
Joined: May 09, 2010
KitMaker: 39 posts
AeroScale: 33 posts
Joined: May 09, 2010
KitMaker: 39 posts
AeroScale: 33 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 02:29 AM UTC
vanize
Texas, United States
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 06:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Any tips on using rattle cans and canopies?
I am going to experiment with some of the Tamiya Air spray cans. I was just going mask and spray them I suppose. Would you do this with the canopies on or off the kit? I've done both, but the tape tends to stay on the kit for a long time with mine. Does scrape off easily with a wooden edge if you get a bit of seepage?
Can you decant the paint easily? Probably will need some for touch ups as well....
It does scrape off with a toothpick or whatever fairly easy. If you totally mess it up, it can be removed easily with 91% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) - available at drug stores around here for about $1 for a 1/2 liter.
as for on or off - your choice.
decanting is easy enough, though it does dry fast.
they make all the same colors in their normal acrylic enamel range, and the match tends to be fairly good - if you are looking for alternative paint supplies for touch ups
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 06:17 PM UTC
Hi Watimena,
Here is my recent experience: https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/155916&page=1
The second coat went on much better.
Here is my recent experience: https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/155916&page=1
The second coat went on much better.
Watimena
South Australia, Australia
Joined: May 09, 2010
KitMaker: 39 posts
AeroScale: 33 posts
Joined: May 09, 2010
KitMaker: 39 posts
AeroScale: 33 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 10, 2010 - 11:44 PM UTC
Thanks for the tips fellas,
Hmm, I have a Tamiya primer, so hopefully that will keep the crazing away. I'm doing a 1/72 betty and was going to have the tamiya silver underneath, so post some more pics of yours, I'm curious to see the result.
I also have a Dragon 1/72 Hien in the stash as well, and the paint job for that will be a bare metal finish too.
Cheers
Jeremy
Hmm, I have a Tamiya primer, so hopefully that will keep the crazing away. I'm doing a 1/72 betty and was going to have the tamiya silver underneath, so post some more pics of yours, I'm curious to see the result.
I also have a Dragon 1/72 Hien in the stash as well, and the paint job for that will be a bare metal finish too.
Cheers
Jeremy
vanize
Texas, United States
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 06:16 AM UTC
If you clean the plastic well with soap before painting and do not use heavy coats, crazing the plastic should not be a problem. lacquers and mold release agents apparently have a chemical reaction that is esp dangerous to plastic.
at least I never have a problem with the plastic being attacked when i use the tamiya spray paints, and i do not use a primer (i consider the lacquer paint to be the primer really, since most primers are lacquers anyway)
at least I never have a problem with the plastic being attacked when i use the tamiya spray paints, and i do not use a primer (i consider the lacquer paint to be the primer really, since most primers are lacquers anyway)
armouredcharmer
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010 - 07:36 AM UTC
Me personally,i`m a brush painter - although with my passions lying in the 1/32 and 1/35 arena i often have to use rattle cans for my stuff.
A trick that i`ve picked up somewhere (and i`m damned if i can remember where !) is to put the cans in hot - NOT BOILING - water for about ten minutes or so and then give them a vigorous shake for three minutes,this seems to improve adhesion no end and even works with the cheap acrylic car paints as well as the dear ones.
Also keep the can moving across the model,unless you want to create an anti slip finish like that found on armour.
Hope this helps in some way.
A trick that i`ve picked up somewhere (and i`m damned if i can remember where !) is to put the cans in hot - NOT BOILING - water for about ten minutes or so and then give them a vigorous shake for three minutes,this seems to improve adhesion no end and even works with the cheap acrylic car paints as well as the dear ones.
Also keep the can moving across the model,unless you want to create an anti slip finish like that found on armour.
Hope this helps in some way.