I bought one of these kits a few months ago and with one exception (that I’ve noticed) it really is terrific. However, for anyone who has built the kit, can you PLEASE tell me how you dealt with the nasty seam running down the length of the canopy?!?!?!

The kit itself wasn’t particularly inexpensive so I’d like to avoid having to by an aftermarket replacement…

Thanks in advance,
Noah

Hmmm... Tamiya's F-16 is greatly engineered and detailed, but you have to be REALLY careful while building it. You are not the only one to have experienced problems: I had great difficulties with the upper fuselage halves and did not manage to glue them getting a "flush" seam (maybe my fault).
As for the nose, I also experienced some trouble in fitting the side panels, but did not have any difficulty with the air intake complex.
As for the line on the canopy, it's not a real problem, it depends on the moulding process and the seam is necessary if you want to get a correctly "drop-shaped" canopy.
If you take a look around the web you'll find a series of approaches which are not difficult at all, you just have to take your time and be careful.
I used the following: I first sanded it down with 1000-grit sand paper, then polished with toothpaste because I didn't have nether Future nor compoud or other fine sandpaper or Micromesh. It disappeared totally, but it took me some time, and I didn't get the transparency one would get with Klear (which is not available in my country).
Anyway the best solution is the following (it's the one used by Promodeller's Paul Flory, look for the video on youtube) :
1) "reinforce" it with Patafix or blu-tac and use masking tape to protect the rest of the canopy
2) sand the line thoroughly with 1000-grit sandpaper, than use finer grades (up to 6000 or even 12000 if you can find it) or with Micromesh pads, then polish with Tamiya's Compound
3) if you're not satisfied or want to get an even higher shine, dip the canopy into Future or Klear and let dry thoroughly

I had great expectations from this kit but the problem I encountered compelled me to put it on hold...

read this:

https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/157495#1322549

Great kit alright and the best 48th jet kit on the market.

As for the canopy seam; that is a result of the 3 piece mold.
In order to get a more accurate "bubble cross section" canopy, the outside mold needs to be made in 2 parts. The payoff is you get an accurate bubble cross sectional canopy that looks a hell of a lot more realistic than a flat sided F-16 canopy; ie Italeri & Academy’s 48th F-16s. After you've done a couple of them, the seam removal becomes second nature.

I start with a few light scraps across the seam, using a flat razor blade to work down the crest. I only suggest this to more experienced modelers, since a bad lean to the blade can result in major surface scraps. A flat 400 or 600 grit sanding stick is a safer way to knock down most of the seam crest.
I then move onto Micro Mesh sanding;

http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/acrylic_plastic_hand_kits.htm

http://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SANDING-SHEETS-INTRODUCTORY/dp/B000H6HIK2

I like using the cloths in this order: 2400 – 3600 – 4000 – 6000 – 8000 – 1200.
The Micro Mesh pads are just as good and preferred by most modelers I know:

http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/craftsman_kits.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Model-Polishing-Kit/dp/B000X4J4G4

All mesh sanding should be performed “wet”. Once the canopy is cleaned, I buff with Novis #1 polish.


http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=DPI&Category_Code=Plastic_Cleaners&gclid=CJ7Tic_Gp6UCFQICbAodIR7GFw

http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Polish-Plastic-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0000WUC7E

I also have an alternative method to the final canopy finish:
After sanding with 8000, clean the canopies with alcohol and let dry. Pour out some Future Floor Polish into a dipping container. Dip the canopies 2-3 times, allowing ample drying time between coats; generally about 8-12 hours. Be sure to let them dry in a covered container.

Mike V