hey guys here are pics of my airplane i just got done.
its a kakajima frankj a tamyia
http://groups.msn.com/armorama/chrisairpics.msnw

Tazz, looks pretty good to me. I've never built any Japanese aircraft so I don't know anything about them. If you need help with those canopy frames, just let us know.

I saw the pictures. Not bad, not bad at all! Like Tin Can said, all you need to do is work on your canopy. I did a Zeke (A6M5c Type 52 Zero) not too long ago, and your model is much, much, MUCH better with mine (I'm not that good at planes). Thanks for your time.

Here are two of the pics. It looks well. I also don´t build Jap planes. I like the paint job and decals. Agree about the canopie. For me painting canopies is a nightmare. I leave them for the end of the building process, sometimes for a looooongggg time.

Never enjoyed multi paneled canopies as seen on WWII fighters and especially bombers.
I did the routine of cutting trimming masking tape. It would come out ok but it is tedious work. But then Fast Frames came along in the early 90's by True Details. Very easy to work with. I built a Tamiya Frank about 3 years ago and so far the Fast Frames are holding up. Other sets have since appeared EZ Mask, Black Magic canopy mask from Cutting Edge and Eduards Canopy mask. I have used a sample of each to do a BF-110, A Lancaster
(in progress) and an SBD by AM. Of the 3 I like EZ mask the best only that it will conform to compound curves and bends on the canopy panels. And most of all it doesn't leave any glue residue on the glass. CE and Eduards will let go sometimes (fun on the BF-110 yeah right!). And again encountered that problem with CE's on the JU-87B Stuka. So in the end it is still not ez with masks a little easier but time factor is about the same.

Chuck
Fly Navy

hello tin - can can u plz help me with paintining the canopys
thanks

well i really dont build japanese planes this was my frist.
after i got the moive tora tora tora,
i though the jap planes where cool,
but i mostly build german planes and amercian planes

:-) tazz, nice looking bird :-)
You will have to take the plunge into canopy masking, believe me it is not that difficult. All you really need is a sharp knife and a reasonabley steady hand. I actually use Parafilm-M but, although it is very good, it does take a bit of getting used to. Apart from that everything else is the same. I would suggest using either Tamiya masking tape or Scotch Majic tape ( the frosted one. ie it goes clear when its burnished down).
Two ways to go, either cut short legths of tape and position along the panel line, then fill in with more pieces. Or, my prefered method, lay tape over the whole canopy and using your sharp knife (I always use a new scalpel blade, pointy one) cut around the frame lines. The trick is to make sure you can see the lines you want to follow (I hold the canopy up to a light source), and to only apply light pressure. Vertually the weight of the scalpel, with a new blade, will cut the tape. You might need a couple of passes, particularly if using Tamiya tape. Because you are applying little pressure it's fairly easy to take corners.
Things to watch out for; unlike Parafilm-M tape will not conform to compound curves. So you will have to lay it down in overlaps, when doing the cover the whole canopy method. When outlining the frames use thin pieces (unless on flat panels) they will conform to the curves easier. Tamiya tape is more fexible and works better for this. It's major drawback is that the frame lines are difficult and sometimes impossible to see, through it.
Main piece of advice is to practice on old canopies. Dipping in Klear (Future) is a good idea, but one thing at a time (also I'm writing an article on the subject) :-)
Of course you can always go the route of canopy masks, I believe they are very good. I would only use them if they came with the kit. Take a look in the gallery, at my Heinkel He 111, the canopies on that were masked using Scotch tape. I used the "all over method". The reason I prefer this method is that the conopies are protected from finger oils, after being cleaned and polished, prior to masking :-)
HTH
Mal
Edit: Forgot to mention, To stop paint creaping under the tape make sure it is burnished down, at the edge by the frame. Also if left on, to long, tape can leave a residue, another reason for using Parafilm-M.

Hi Mal

I agree... nothing to fear in canopy masking that a little patience won't overcome :-)

Where do you get Parafilm in the UK? I've read about it in FSM, but haven't had the chance to try it...

All the best

Rowan

thanks hold fast i will try that on my plane iam building now.
a 1/72 Dornier Do 217 when iam done i will post pics
i just looked at your He-111 u did a nice job.
i saw what u did on the canpany