Hi,
I'm new to this forum and new to WWI modeling. I would like to start building a Alb DII in 1/48. How do you attach rigging? I bought some "invisable thread" that is dark. I have some really fine drills with pin vice.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
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Attaching rigging
Fliegerhorst
Alabama, United States
Joined: December 19, 2010
KitMaker: 4 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Joined: December 19, 2010
KitMaker: 4 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 19, 2010 - 11:21 AM UTC
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 19, 2010 - 12:20 PM UTC
First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings.
Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.
When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.
The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry.
Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.
When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.
The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry.
Fliegerhorst
Alabama, United States
Joined: December 19, 2010
KitMaker: 4 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Joined: December 19, 2010
KitMaker: 4 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 19, 2010 - 05:51 PM UTC
Thanks!
gcn123
Joined: September 13, 2007
KitMaker: 69 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
KitMaker: 69 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 19, 2010 - 09:57 PM UTC
Kornbeef
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Monday, December 20, 2010 - 12:09 AM UTC
It does depend what level of detail, confidence and ability you feel comfortable with too.. check out some of Terri's *the girl* builds amongst many others turnbuckles and eyelets made at 1/48th far beyond my comfort zone or ability to see.
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Monday, December 20, 2010 - 05:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
It does depend what level of detail, confidence and ability you feel comfortable with too.. check out some of Terri's *the girl* builds amongst many others turnbuckles and eyelets made at 1/48th far beyond my comfort zone or ability to see.
Keith is right , it depends on your comfort zone and the level of detail you wish to add . The method which Stephen has described is the easiest for beginners and is straightforward . You can make your own details for the rigging or you can buy them ( Bobs Buckles) . I did a small tutorial on how I do my
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net//features/2740