The wings were built the same way as the tail feathers and were quite easy to construct using this methodology.


Please note: the turnbuckles are overscale but I thought that this was such an important feature of a biplane wing that I wanted them to be visible to the average viewer, when placed in the scale hangar.A little artistic license for teaching purposes.

Vignette or Diorama ?
This build could evolve into a full blown diorama. Why ? because I have recently discovered a lot of great info on Fokker hangar construction.Detailed plans,drawings,pics and even some great 3D work by Gerry Mos of Achim Engel's Fokker team.
It really comes down to how much to build ? A vignette of a corner of the hangar or something larger ? The airplane however will be built first.

Hi JohnReid

I’m the man who loves every kind of scratch. I have already two little airplane from WWI in 1/72 (skeleton both).

For me, the best material I found is a brass.

And I would like to contribute to your forum with these materials.


https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/169087&page=1



Have found and I wish you the Best


Adrian Urrejola

Artwork courtesy of Gerry Mos.

another pic

Hi Adrian ! Thank you for your reply.Beautiful work in such a small scale.
Cheers! John.

Doug Emmons
Here is a great article on why we do what we do !

http://www.doxaerie.com/perceptions.htm

Thanks Doug.

The fuselage sides were built the same way,right on the building board.The longerons were bent with the help of a little water and an old hair curler.If the wood is well soaked heat may not even be necessary.Use lots of pins and just it bend slowly.Sometimes you may run into a piece of wood that is cross grain, just discard it and look for a better piece with the grain running lengthwise.I will cover heat bending wood later in this thread.

This is the kit supplied jig.It was OK but needed a little tweaking here and there for everything to run smoothly from frame to frame.This set up could be easily duplicated ,just be sure everything is 90 deg and level when setting up the board.I used hot melt glue for this operation.Now simply add the cross members to complete the basic frame.When fitting wood pieces like this it is a good idea to cut the wood a little longer than required and sand it back to fit.
As we progress with the D8 we will build the required jig for this from the plans, using various station lines for our measurements.Don't worry because when you get to this stage you will have a lot of woodworking and working from drawings experience under your belt ,having already built the wings and basic fuselage frame.

This is the only other jig required.Very simple to make,just 2 boards 90deg to one another.I made mine from particle board.This jig also serves the purpose of protecting your build from damage.It can be modified at any time to suit your needs.

Same basic jig modified for wing and tail installation.This is a very strong and stable jig that can be modified as required .Save the cutouts and you can use it for other projects.I usually use hot melt glue when adding forms or fixtures to the jig as it is very easily removed.

Here is how to locate the undercarriage using the same jig.Simply turn the fuselage upside down and drill a hole into the board to locate the axle.

The airplane has been put right side up and is now resting on its axle .A level 90deg wing support board has been added to the jig.The L/H set of wings were then dry fit to the fuselage while in this very stable position.
This is a departure from what most people do when rigging a biplane.Usually they attempt to line everything up when the upper wing is in one piece,which is a very hard thing to do correctly.