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World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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Academy Mustang Mk. Ia 1/72
robot_
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Posted: Thursday, April 28, 2011 - 09:19 AM UTC
I've not been making much progress on any models for the past 5 or 6 months, so i decided to do a quick build in a day, just for the pleasure of getting something finished. As normal, I didn't finish it in one day, but I am hoping to get it finished by the end of the royal wedding holiday weekend.



Academy's Mustang North Africa- which includes a jeep and trailer, plus a flight stand. I would have liked to see a pilot in the kit, as planes usually have these whilst in the air.



I'm making a time-lapse of this build, hence the strangely posed photo. I used Xtracryclix Interior green (I bought it in error when i started in the hobby a few years ago, thinking it was the British interior grey-green: at least it is coming in useful now).



I post-shaded with an airbrush for the first time- still need to learn a bit more control. I also used washes of Citadel Gryphon Sepia and Citadel Devlan Mud, and once dry, I dry-brushed with the interior green mixed with white.



Closing up the fuselage wasn't without drama. Firstly, I had put the bulkhead that the seat mounts to at too much of a slant towards the back of the aircraft, meaning the camera wouldn't fit.

If anyone intends to build this kit, I would advise installing the wall behind the seat to the floor without the seat attached, and installing the seat last, just before closing up. If you follow the instructions for the first few stages. you can easily install the seat too low, without enough room for the control column part to fit under the seat.



The fit is generally very good- with better dry-fitting, you shouldn't need filler. There is so little flash that I got lazy with clean-up. The flash around the cut-outs for the landing lights stopped the wing halves from closing fully (I didn't notice this on the dry run).

The round radiator part needs a bit os sanding to prevent it spreading the fuselage slightly. I didn't find this out until too late.

I also forgot to fit the tail wheel- classic novice mistake!

To complete the list of stupid mistakes, I used the huge horrid brush that comes in the Humbrol Liquid Poly bottle- I had forgot to use an old paint brush for this. I accidentally dumped a huge amount of liquid poly to the top of one of the tailplanes (I was holding it upside down while gluing it to the aircraft) and I didn't notice until my huge thumb print had melted deeply into the plastic...

The hardest bit to get to fit was the part behind the radiator exit flap- I'm not sure why this wasn't moulded with the fuselage halves. After the inevitable bodging by sanding the part too much, I put some filler here too. It is a real pain to sand this area, as the delicate open tail-wheel doors were moulded into the fuselage halves!

The canopy parts all fit brilliantly. I have never had parts fit so well- really nice feeling to fit them without hassle. It would be easy to open up the cockpit if you wanted, as the windscreen is separate from the canopy, as are the side windows at the rear.

Masking was a so tedious job- I am planning on using Eduard masks for all future kits- expensive, but after an hour of masking, they seem good value.



I sprayed the canopy frames interior green so that the primer doesn't show through the clear parts. This also helped seal the masks, as I build up the colour with mist coats, protecting the clear parts from the thick wet coat from the aerosol primer.



After priming with Mr Surfacer 1200 aerosol. I was a bit too close, so it went on heavier than I would have liked. It looks fine now it has dried. The wing roots, that I thought were OK, look like they need some attention.

Moral of the build so far: rushing will just result in errors that are more time consuming to fix.

I plan to paint it in Operation Starkey colours- black and white bands top and bottom of outer wings- covering roundels. Aircraft 'G' from 268 Sqn, 2TAF.
magnusf
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Posted: Friday, April 29, 2011 - 07:13 PM UTC
Me likey! Both the subject and your model! Those Academy Mustangs are simply great, I have done a B-Mustang myself!

Will you do a diorama for this one like you did for the Typhoon?



Magnus
robot_
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 09:50 AM UTC
Thanks Magnus. No, I won't be doing a diorama. I had intended to use one of the new Revell 1/72 RAF pilots as a seated figure in the plane, but none of them would fit without surgery, and I wanted to do the build quickly and completely OOB, so I didn't bother in the end.


I didn't get much modelling time yesterday- only managed to do some rather ill-conceived filling using partially dried up white paint, and sprayed the aluminium bits silver then did a wash of Citadel sepia and mud.

A couple of photos of the paint used as filler- it worked OK, but sanding it, even wet, was not very good, as it is a bit too rubbery. I aimed to just fill the wing roots a little bit, so I didn't want to put putty in, as I find it hard to re-scribe into the putty.






The metal parts painted and washed:




This afternoon I made quite a bit of progress:

Pre-shading and painting the black wing tips. I tried with Xtracrylix Night, then gave up- I have over-diluted the whole pot. I then started my new pot of Tamiya flat black, and thinned it with pure isopropanol, and it was when on beautifully. I found out later (doing touch-ups) that if you thin it a lot (50%+), it goes on matt, if you thin it about 20-30% it has a nice satin finish.






Now spraying the white (white paint messed up the airbrush- Xtracrylix again, I don't think they liked being mixed with water and isopropanol, I used to have no problems before I started adding isopropanol).





Spraying the camouflage- also using new pots of Tamiya RAF Ocean Grey and RAF Dark Green.






Tamiya for the undersides too- RAF Medium Sea Grey. I annoying forgot to paint the outer surfaces of the gear leg covers MSG while it was in the airbrush.




Masking tape off- need to mask and paint the sky fuselage band, then a few touch-ups of the DG/OG.






Sorry for the noisy photos- I took them a few minutes ago, and the shed is only lit by fluorescent lights . The shed has a clear roof, so is good for photography during the day. Bumping up the contrast in the photos has also exaggerated the pre-shading, it is not as prominent as this in real life.
magnusf
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 06:51 PM UTC
You seem to be close to make it with your weekend build! I tried a few years ago but failed miserably...

There is absolutely a point in trying to build something fast when you have been away from the modelling for some time. Building routine is important and for me an ordinary finished model is as much worth as a perfectly finished model (well almost anyway ). And with "perfect" I mean as perfect as my models get, on a good day with some suitably weak competition that is equivalent to about bronze level in the Swedish nationals ...

I like the look you got by painting the black before the white of the wing bands. I would have done it the opposite way and probably ended up with überwhite and überblack stripes that I had had to tone down some way or another...

Xtracrylix: I use Tamiya thinner for them. One of their big, square, bottles of thinner is a worthwhile investment I think, I get better results with the airbrush from both Tamiya, Xtracrylix and Games Workshop (!) paints using the real Tamiya thinner compared to different kinds of pure alcohols. If used just for thinning (use rubbing alcohol for cleaning!) it will last for a long time! And do not pour thinner directly into the paint tins (I seem to remember this discussion from sometime before )

This is a trick I use for mixing and storing small amounts of paint:

A piece of scrap wood (building the house that generated that piece of scrap wood was the expensive part of this method ) with suitably sized holes drilled in it acts as a holder for cut-off pipette tops sealed off using Parafilm. Pasteur pipettes can be bought in boxes of 1000 from lab supply firms (just google "pasteur pipettes", order a roll of Parafilm as well while your'e at it since it is a good masking medium also). Those small pipette tops hold a lot more paint than you need for a 1/72 model, you can store your paintmixes this way for as long as your project lasts and then you just throw the pipettes away and start all over again with new fresh ones. A lot easier than film canisters (if you can get those in the era of digicams...) or empty paint tins that need to be cleaned before you can re-use them!

Regarding the Citadel washes: I found them a few months ago and have already grown quite fond of them!

Now I'm off cycling, I expect a new update when stopping for a mid-tour coffee-break in a few hours !



Magnus
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 08:59 PM UTC
Hi Magnus, Thanks for the very useful post!

I shall take your advice on the Tamiya thinner, and I shall also improvise a thinned paint storage system too (I hate throwing away paint).

No progress yet, but I thought I'd grab a couple of better photos of where I got to last night:





Note the big gap on the sides of the radiator fairing. I'm not sure whether I will do oil washes on this plane (want to get it finished, and the oil drying time stops progress for a few days), but if I do, they'll cover up this and a few other mistakes.


And a better shot of the effect created by the Citadel washes.

magnusf
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 09:03 PM UTC
Even BEFORE the coffee-break :-)



Magnus
robot_
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 10:02 AM UTC
Hope you had a good ride Magnus- how long was it?

I didn't have time to do any modelling during the day- but got about an hour in tonight. Touched up a few bits, and then painted the sky fuselage band and spinner, then did an overall coat of Klear in preparation for the transfers. I also sprayed medium sea grey on the undercarriage leg covers.

Sorry again for the poorly lit photo.



I have to a few details to airbrush in yellow still- tips of prop, wing leading edge yellow ID stripes and two yellow marks on the trailing edge of the wing that they used for aiming the camera. The rest will be hand painted- tyres, exhausts, cannon barrels, and the dark red circles of the fuel caps on the wings. Also need to touch-up the tail wheel doors interior colour.

Instead of oil paint washes for dirt/stains, I'm planning on using a few hand-painted trails of oil/fuel using Citadel washes, which are fast drying. Then some exhaust staining, general dirt and picking out the edges of the opening panels (engine, cannon bays) with dust made from artists' pastels. I've not tried using this technique before, but it is a fast method, and reversible by washing off if mistakes are made.
mtnflyer
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Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2011 - 10:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I've not been making much progress on any models for the past 5 or 6 months, .



I really like your model, and your ability. However, I must mention that two women have divorced me because, not likely I'm going to last that long.
robot_
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2011 - 11:38 AM UTC
Guy- nothing was stopping me from modelling, there were just psychological barriers- too much research, too much time on forums!

I only had a bit of time this evening, but I managed to get it ready for transfers:





I have just realised that the upper surface camouflage should come down onto the sides of the radiator- I'm not going to correct this, as there are other errors too (the recoil springs on the cannon shouldn't be there, for one).
MikeMx
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2011 - 12:03 PM UTC
I find it's best to use Xtracrylix's own thinners with their paints. You get a big jar of it and it's not too expensive and should last a while.

Does that kit come with RAF markings or are you using aftermarket decals?

thanks
Mike
magnusf
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Posted: Monday, May 02, 2011 - 09:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hope you had a good ride Magnus- how long was it?


110 km (70 miles if I had been riding in the UK ). In cold and windy conditions with a bunch of competition minded middle-aged men keeping the speed up. Those rides are usually quite social events, this time I was concentrated on just suffering and pedalling !


Quoted Text


Instead of oil paint washes for dirt/stains, I'm planning on using a few hand-painted trails of oil/fuel using Citadel washes, which are fast drying. Then some exhaust staining, general dirt and picking out the edges of the opening panels (engine, cannon bays) with dust made from artists' pastels. I've not tried using this technique before, but it is a fast method, and reversible by washing off if mistakes are made.



I'm a great fan of pastels (both home-ground from artist's crayons and the ones that come ready-ground in bottles from various sources) for exactly the reason you state Ben. Controllable and fixable, just my kind of stuff !

Beautiful Mustang!



Magnus
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 10:30 AM UTC
Magnus, the ride sounds pretty tough. I've not done any riding in a group, I don't think I'd cope very well- I like going at my own pace- especially up hills! I live in Oxford, so everybody gets around on bike.

Mike: aftermarket, plus home-printed serials (when I remember to print it!).

Got the transfers on tonight- except the serials: hopefully I'll print them tomorrow. In these photos they are still wrinkled after the MicroSol application.



robot_
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 10:34 AM UTC
One thing I forgot: does anyone have advice about whether a gloss or matt finish is best for applying the pastel dust?

If I am using them mixed with water and detergent do I want the surface to be glossy, like with oils?

I guess if I am dusting on dry pigment, a matt finish will hold the dust in a more natural way?

If I'm right, I'll do the panel lines with the wet mixture whist the plane is glossy from Klear, then do the exhaust stain and gun smoke after the matt coat (then do another light coat of matt to seal). Sound OK?
magnusf
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 08:56 PM UTC

Quoted Text


If I'm right, I'll do the panel lines with the wet mixture whist the plane is glossy from Klear, then do the exhaust stain and gun smoke after the matt coat (then do another light coat of matt to seal). Sound OK?



You have it all figured out!

Washes tend to spread out of the panel lines on a matt finish, especially if it is a bit rough. Dry pastels on a glossy surface don't bite at all, they just smear. On a matt surface they bite really well, I seldom even care to seal them in with a final matt coat. I have learned to appreciate the slight differences in sheen you get on a model if not doing that final matt coat, it brings the model to life!

By the way, if the pastel/fluid mixture doesn't work out a good alternative is water colours, the ones that come in tubes (like oils) are very good but I have sometimes pilfered some from my kids and they worked great as well...

Cycling with a group: normally great fun(as long as the middle-aged, competition-minded men don't turn up...)! You are 3-5 kph faster in a group than you are by yourself and there is always a bunch of great company for the mandatory mid-tour coffee(tea?)-break .



Magnus
jaypee
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 08:59 PM UTC
Nice Ben! I've been lurking and not had the time to comment but very good progress. I've not used GW washes since my gaming days but they were always nice to use.

You are spot on in your approach, gloss for panel line wash. matt for powders.

Then seal the whole thing in. I like a semi-gloss finish on aircraft model

If you are careful by using a pin wash i.e. very little wash applied directly into the panel lines you could get away without the gloss coat.

But I prefer a plaster on the wash, wipe it off approach myself, so you need a gloss coat for that.

On the home straight now, attack the pace line.


EDIT: Yeah what magnus said


Off topic

magnusf
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Posted: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 - 09:11 PM UTC
Jaypee! That was a good one



Magnus
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Posted: Friday, May 06, 2011 - 10:42 PM UTC
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the advice on pastels and pigments.

Things have taken a turn for the worse. I applied the laser printer serials on Wednesday night, coated transfers in Klear on Thursday, then last night began the weathering.

Within 2 minutes of starting I made a stupid and catastrophic error. Even though a water and pigment mix dries very quickly, for some dumb reason I thought mixing the pigment with isopropanol was a good idea.

In case you do not know what happens when you splodge this over the panel lines on the upper wing surface; then here is a summary: it will dry very quickly, and the isoproanol with dissolve the Klear, so when it dries the pigment is in the Klear, and cannot be wiped off with water. Then you will try using isopranol to clean it off, and the paint will be removed back to the primer. You will be very angry

I took a deep breath, and started on the underside (with them mixed with water this time!). It is a lot harder to get the pigments to stay in the panel lines (compared to oils) as you have to apply quite a bit of pressure with a damp (not wet) cloth to remove them, whereas after oils have dried for a few hours, a cloth dampened with oil thinner will remove the excess with no pressure. So with the pastel dust and pigments, I basically had to go over and over areas, and I ended up basically painting the aircraft by brush with a watercolour. It was very time consuming, and I have only done about 3/4 of the aircraft. I have decided I won't be using pigments wet in panel lines or for oil stains, etc any more- I will just use them for dusting and in tyre tread, etc.

Anyway, I will try to find time this weekend to re-paint the upper wing camouflage, then get the last bits of weathering done. Hopefully the next post with will of the finished aircraft.
magnusf
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Posted: Saturday, May 07, 2011 - 09:05 AM UTC
This advice is too late for you this time Ben but it might be of help for others...

I think you could have fixed the initial pastel/alcohol disaster by overspraying the affected areas around the panel lines with the camo colours. I often go back to the initial camo colours to tone down weathering that has gone wild and it usually works quite well.

Take a deep breath and say after me: "(Almost) everything is fixable"



Magnus
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Posted: Sunday, May 08, 2011 - 11:36 AM UTC
Magnus, indeed it was fixable, and I spent quite a while this evening on finishing the model.

Things did not go well at the beginning, but things got better. I re-assembled my good airbrush (still just a £30 G35), after an ultra-sonic clean, and I managed to over-tighten the nozzle (tiny thread on this). It sort of crumpled into the barrel of the airbrush- I thought I had destroyed the whole thing. However, the threads on the body look OK, just the nozzle is dead.

So I was back to my suction-fed cheapie airbrush. So I had to use a lot of Tamiya camo colours just for the re-touch (the paint bucket need to be 1/2 full to feed the airbrush)- it was actually not a very big area that needed re-spraying.

Before spraying the re-touches, I sealed the pigments that I was happy with (after several hours work!), so that I didn't pull the off with masking tape, or my sweat rub them off, etc.

The varnish was a mix of 1 part matt to 2 parts satin, to 5 parts water- I was trying out the artist's varnishes (Windsor and Newton Galleria) that Rowan suggested. When I had them thinned enough, it went on well (it is pretty gloopy stuff, so needs plenty of water).

Anyway, here are the photos of the Mustang finished (except possibly more clean-up of the canopy framing).









I am very happy to have it finished, and glad it was done within 10 days (however not quite the one-day build I was hoping for!).

I have uploaded the time-lapse to youtube (it is not very good, nor is it complete, as I got bored of taking photos!):

magnusf
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Posted: Sunday, May 08, 2011 - 06:30 PM UTC
A beautiful Mustang Ben, and ten days to finish a model is very good even if you aimed for a day !

The colours look good, I have also bought the new Tamiya paints that you used but I haven't built anything to test them on yet. Maybe time for a Spitfire soon...

Have you decided on a new project? Better keep the pace up now



Magnus
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