How would u decal a plane so it looks real

All I can offer is the way I do them. I mainly do Navy and Marine Corp aircraft. Modern that is. After I have finished the plane in flat colors , I spray a thin coat of gloss on the entire plane. After letting it dry for a couple of days I decal it, using MicroScale decals set. This stuff is great and really lets the decals form to the panel lines . Use as much of this set as you need, but don't panic when they wrinkle a little. This is normal. But they will flatten out on drying. After they are down the way I want them, I allow them to set for a couple of days and then spray the plane with a dull coat. So far this has worked great for me and they look painted on. Hope this helps, Mav

I pretty much follow the same methods as Maverick. Good luck, let us know how she turns out.

~Chip #:-)

The only real difference I would add to the above is that I spray a coat of Future again after decalling before the dull coat to sort of equalize everything. It is possible that it is really not necessary, but I real better doing it.
capnjock

The only real difference I would add to the above is that I spray a coat of Future again after decalling before the dull coat to sort of equalize everything. It is possible that it is really not necessary, but I real better doing it.
capnjock

what i do is put a clear gloss coat over the whole plane.
i use testors clear gloss arclic
and then after i put the decals i put another coat of the clear gloss.
and when that drys i put a flat coat of testos flat coat arcliy
but make sure u put the decals on before all the small parts.
like the landing gear and the prop is u are building ww2 planes.
this makes it easyer to handle andadd the decals and clear costs.
because nothing can break off and get in your way

:-) LittleNick :-)
Mav has outlined the process, but it must be difficult to visualise, if you haven't seen it done. Or tried it and got it right. It is as easy as it sounds but like most of these things, usually takes a few goes to get the hang of. Probably the hardest part is getting the decals aligned correctly. I am in the process of writing an article on the subject, but it will take some time. I do have to work
To highlight the main points that Mav has pointed out:
1. You need a good smooth surface for the decals to sit on (Gloss coat) If you don't do this you will get a silvering affect.
2. Use setting solutions (good model shops should stock them, read the instructions). These make the decals conform to the detail, to make them look painted on.
3. After cleaning off the excess solution (after the decals have dried) coat with the finishing varnish. However if you wish to weather your model, then you may want to consider a coat of Klear (Future). Then after weathering apply the finishing coat of varnish. The coat of Klear, I use 2 coats, help to level off the decal edge and protect the decals and paint from the weathering process.
Mal

All good information! One thing I do in addition is to trim off all the excess decal film that isn't essential for the decal. I cut right up to the color part of the decal.

I cut each decal away from the main sheet. Then place it on a block of scrap wood and use a NEW #11 blade and carefully cut through the top layer of film right up to the color. And I've even gotten to the point of cutting out the gap between letters like between the vertical posts in the U and inside the A in USA. Sometime (depending on scale) I will cut the three letters apart and install them as individual decals. My goal is to get rid of as much that can silver as possible. I built up to the extreme that I'm at slowly so take it at your own pace.