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World War II
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MM's Heinkel He-100D 1:48
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 06, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, October 08, 2011 - 08:53 AM UTC


This is Medallion Models’ Heinkel He-100D in 1/48. Since I already presented you with an in-box review here, I feel somehow compelled to provide the build review as well. On the other hand, this full resin kit of the Heinkel’s alternative fighter initially seemed as an easy build. I need something like that between more demanding builds, such as my Yak-1b adventure, and intended build(s) for the upcoming Fw-190 campaign. It is also meant to relieve some tension and bad energy developed in the Yak build.

I am not going to bother you with the details of what’s in the box, because you can already find it in my in-box review of the kit. Yet, now when I inspected the kit more closely and observantly, I need to amend my say that some of the details in the cockpit area are reminiscent of other kits, respectively Hasegawa’s Bf-109’s. This is not correct. On the contrary, the details on the cockpit port and starboard consoles, as well as the control stick, are far more detailed than either the Hasegawa or the Tamiya Bf-109’s. A trained eye will spot that the details are shared and borrowed from an older Verlinden Bf-109 detail set, especially the oxygen regulator and the control stick. But this is not that relevant in the end; I just wanted to amend my initial (incorrect) observation.



The build started with the usual prep and wash of the resin parts. Not that the details on the instrumental panel are lacking, but I somehow disliked the overall impression of the part. Instead of painting and dry brushing the instruments, I decided to carefully drill the instrument faces and install some of my homemade printed Luftwaffe instruments, so that I can take the advantage of beautifully cast instrument bezels that were already there. However, the care and precision are needed in order not to destroy the instrument panel while drilling out the instrument faces.



I also washed all of the resin parts in lukewarm water and detergent to remove the mould release agent and grease. The cockpit is really neat, and will probably be the only eye-catching part on the aircraft, so it needs proper detailing. Moreover, rather clean and thin vac-formed canopy, that I intend to open, will provide the extra opportunity for closer inspection. I also discarded the kit’s rudder pedals and decided to go with those of the Tamiya’s Bf-109 borrowed from a hangar queen. Not that the former are much more detailed, but they are a bit smaller and with some engraved elements that just might look better than those provided in the kit. The PE parts would be the ideal solution, but I had none at the moment. Additionally, the resin seat is beautifully casted, but there are no seatbelts provided. However, I managed to dig an unused pair of standard Luftwaffe seatbelts that will be handy in this build.



While generally very nicely cast and well executed, this kit might benefit from additional attention. For instance, the cockpit sides, which are integral part of a single-piece fuselage, are not very flat and the resin surface is a bit uneven and raised. This needs to be gently sanded to flat surface, which will only improve the fit and the grip of the separate resin cockpit sides. Already first touches with flat diamond broacher revealed the horrible resin fumes. I guess that this type of resin is extremely toxic, and I wouldn’t recommend inhaling it. My workspace is a kind of a dungeon, so I don’t have enough fresh air. Nevertheless, it is very important that you maintain the proper angle of the broacher (perpendicular to the surface), because you can easily overdo it and eventually ruin the rather thin cockpit sides.



The gun-sight is not so prominent and well executed in the kit, so i decided to take the advantage and carefully cut it out with jeweler's saw. I will latter add the Revi gun-sight from my leftovers, and it might be an additional spotter through the open cockpit. I am preparing additional details in the cockpit, but will take care not to exaggerate with detailing in general.



However, I will keep you well informed about all interesting aspects of this build, and I hope that this won't put so much pressure on already busy Mrs. Panda. She will be closely monitoring the build...

As always, comments and recommendations are more than welcome
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 06, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 11:07 AM UTC
The cockpit is almost ready for priming. I added just few bits and pieces from PE leftovers, including the seat-belts. This is intended to be a fast build, so I don't want to exaggerate with details. I scratched the seat support, and also simulated some of the control mechanisms, adding wires and other connectors. However, the most interesting thing is the tube that goes out of the oxygen regulator... Latter I will add mask and leave it dangling around. It was made from thin led wire wrapped around some stretched sprue. I don't know if anyone is interested in this build, but Mrs. Panda is definitely enjoying our photo sessions. She is also going to get a medal for each build that we finish together (so she's gathering some points here).







Tell me what you think!
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 12:28 PM UTC
I think it's starting to shape up nicely.
Keep posting progress photos please.
Jessie_C
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Posted: Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 01:29 PM UTC
That's a very interesting looking kit. I have used 3 different detail sets (F4F, SBD and Avenger) from them that were first issued in the late 1980s/early 1990s. They had many of their smaller boxes and details on a thin resin wafer and each needed to be sanded out from the backing before being glued into place. It was all far more complcated than we're used to dealing with lately. The Avenger set came with copious amounts of etched brass so I'm a little surprised they didn't include any in your kit. Perhaps it went wherever the radiator and decals did?

I am pretty sure that Medallion are out of business; they used to advertise in the back of Fine Scale Modeller magazine and I haven't seen any ads for years.

Anyway, getting back to the subject of your model, it looks as though things are going very well, and that it'll be a much more relaxing build than your wonderful Yak. I eagerly await further developments : )
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Sunday, October 09, 2011 - 07:57 PM UTC
Thank you all for comments and support. Well, maybe there were also PE frets included in this boxing, but I am not sure. If there was, than my review of the item is flawed and needs to be corrected. Nevertheless, I am very suprised with the overall quality of the kit. As I said earlier, it is really beautifuly cast, and so far I spotted only one bubble which can be easily fixed. It is an easy build, and that's just what I needed between the breaks with the Yak project. Not that I really needed to detail this one, but few light touches might improve the overall impression of this nice kit (besides the resin fumes, which are just awful).

[Edit:] I was really concerned about that PE issue that Jessica raised, but if you look more closely on the top of the kit box, it doesn't mention any PE in the box.
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 - 07:27 AM UTC
The first coat of primer and RLM 02 makes the resin talk. It is interesting how the paint brings details to life... I used vallejo primer and xtracrylics paint. First I have to see the last game of the Euro qualifiers against the France. Whatever the outcome, the coats are there and wait to be finely detailed and painted...



Thanks for watching!
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 06, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, October 22, 2011 - 12:45 AM UTC
No time to spare... in the breaks between the Yak-1b build, I managed to drop some color into the pit... I am still learning the techniques of shading and color modulation, so be gentle with comments. The base color was a bit accentuated Xtracolor RLM02, and all of the details are painted with Vallejo Model Color range. It is probably too accentuated in places and slightly exaggerated weathering, since He-100's were not so worn out in the service. Actually, they were used to protect the Heinkel's factory airfield in Rostock-Marienehe, but it was only a limited use and I think they were well cared for.











The instrument panel didn't turn out as I hoped in the beginning, but it is much nicer in reality. The photo is distorting your perspective

All the best!
haribeau44
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2011 - 12:57 PM UTC
Hallo, Entoni,

this is a really fine work you are doing. I like this plane!

Did you use reference material for detailling the cockpit? I did not find any cockpit information in the net.

I know there were no PE-parts in the kit but a small sheet with decals containing white numbers 1, 2, 5, 7, lightnings, smoking moon and a shield with a sword piercing a hat. I can make pictures for you if you whish.

And finally, don't worry about the instrument panel. Like most other details in the cockpit there will hardly be visible a lot if the hood is glued to the fuselage.

Please, keep us informed about your progress.

Harald
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Sunday, October 23, 2011 - 08:11 PM UTC
Harald,

Thank you for your comments. I agree that it's very hard to find some useful information on He-100D in general. The cockpit is no exception here. However, I decided to go with what's already in the box (there is no PE, and the decals plus radiator are missing in my box). So any assistance with the decals is more than helpful. It is not my intention to work on too much details here.

All the best,
eseperic
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Posted: Monday, October 31, 2011 - 11:36 PM UTC


Personally, I find the Heinkel’s He-100 a piece of aircraft design ingenuity. Not only incorporating some of the most advanced solutions at the time, the aircraft really catches you with such a beautiful sleekness which is far superior to Bf-109’s. It just leaves you wondering what a Friedrich or Gustav might have looked like. The Mission Model’s kit is just not short of the original. It clicks together with easiness that calls for just a basic modelling skill. Even the nasty moulding mark that was running from the tip to the end of the fuselage sides sands down quite easily. It was one of my concerns in the review, but it now proved easy to amend. Last but not the least; I must confirm that the MM’s resin to be a real stinker!! The fumes released from sanding are just unbearable!!







My overall impression is that the kit is well thought and designed, and the only “serious” problem I encountered during the assembly of the fuselage is the gap at the root of vertical stabilizer. I will solve that later with a spot of Tamiya’s light-curing putty, but it doesn’t seem like a major problem to tackle.



I only lightly riveted the aircraft, but haven’t finished it yet. I will be adding some details latter and scratch the water cooler, since I found it missing in my box. Apart from being an easy build, I hope it will turn into a real beauty with some colour on it. Comments are welcome...
haribeau44
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Posted: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 - 05:16 PM UTC
Entoni,

after the "marriage" of fuselage and wings/tailplane the excellent form of the construction starts beeing visible. I wonder what a further development might have looked like if this fine construction had not been killed by the great influence of Messerschmitt in the use of fighters with Luftwaffe.

Riveting the plane gives much life to it. Did you use a plan for it? And which riveting device did you use? I haven't done it up to now and would like to try it, too.

I am not sure about your answer whether you want a picture of the decals or not.
Here you find a good picture of the decals which are in the 1:32 scale Special Hobby Kit (the complete review on Modelversium by Alexander Jost is here ).

Looking forward to the coloured plane.

Harald




eseperic
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Posted: Tuesday, November 01, 2011 - 07:49 PM UTC
Harald,

Thank you for your nice words and observation... I couldn't agree more with you on the issue of possible development of Herr Heinkel's beauty. I would guess that Gustav or Friedrich would have posed serious threat to any Allied fighter.

Well, concerning the riveting... I've been using several riveters, but I somehow settled down with Radu's wonderful Rivet-R. As you know, it is difficult to find good templates/plans to rivet He-100D. Yet, I obtained some useful information from a Russian modelling site, and I am using simple structural logic of the airframe and panel lines - where this is applicable. However, I already made several mistakes (please, do not attempt "freehand" riveting; it doesn't work, believe me!), but I will correct that latter.

Furthermore, I have problems with your links. Although I appreciate your help, I decided to go with He-100D-0 coded HE+NE in standard RLM 70/71/65 camo, which is the easiest for me to reproduce without decals (I will make my own masks). The only doubt I have about this particular machine is whether it had the wing root guns and the central cannon installed or not? Do you happen to know more about this?

Thanks for watching!
haribeau44
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
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Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 - 02:41 AM UTC
Hallo Entoni,
I checked it and this link will work now:

http://www.modellversium.de/kit/artikel.php?id=4068

There you'll find a scan of the decals (though you do not use them).

I'll try to find out about the armouring.

Thanks for the explanations on RB riveters.

Harald
Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 - 08:37 PM UTC
Hi Entoni

That's fantastic work on the rivets! I think you should write an illustrated Feature on how to do it. Have the camera ready to cover every stage in depth on your next project.

All the best

Rowan
eseperic
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Croatia Hrvatska
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Posted: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 - 09:22 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Entoni

That's fantastic work on the rivets! I think you should write an illustrated Feature on how to do it. Have the camera ready to cover every stage in depth on your next project.

All the best

Rowan



Well, Rowan, I admire your ability to flatter Believe me, illustrated Feature on my riveting "skills" would be way too funny... As I pointed out earlier, it's a "free-hand" technique, and I am prone to make mistakes just because I am too lazy to put some tape or any other guiding device, although I am generally very tidy person. However, Radu's Rivet-R is really handy, and the soft MM's resin only makes it easier for me.

Thanks, anyway
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