Hi all .. im researching the B-24 ready for when i start my 1/48 Monogram kit .
Im trying to find some pictures of the interior nose area of a B-24 D in particular where the ammo boxes for the 50 cals are as i want to add them to the model and scratch build some ammo belts coming from them to the guns ..However I cant seem to find any pics so if anyone can point me in the right direction i would greatly appreciate it ...

Thanks all

Try this:

http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&hl=en&source=hp&biw=1366&bih=597&q=b-24+nose+compartment&gbv=2&oq=b-24+nose+compartment&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=1248l6693l0l6833l21l18l0l11l11l0l1216l1216l7-1l1l0

And an interior walkaround of a B-24:

http://public.fotki.com/kos/members_photo_galle/pb4-y-mariner--a-ph/b-24-witchcraft--in/


I'm just about to start my 1/48th Revel kit.


-Andrew

Thanks Andrew thats a big help .. are you going to be posting your B-24 build on here ?

I guess I will be. I wasn't planning on it, but i might as well. It's been a while since I've built anything/posted a build. And since we're both working on the same thing, it could definately provide good references.

WIll you be posting yours?

-Andrew

Yeah i probably will do iv just finished an A-26 Invader in 1/48 that i have posted on here i need to update the post tho and add the last few pics of it feel free to have a look the post is called A-26 invader 1/48 build update ..as for my B-24 iv already made a bit of a start nothing major iv just painted the inside of the fuzz interior green and made a start on the cockpit area ... it would be good to compare ideas and techniques ... is yours a B-24 D ?

I shall take a look! I haven't started mine yet, I just got back from college this afternoon. I will be starting in a few minutes though.

Yes, mine is a B-24D, the Revell kit, but I have some after market decals, and 3 sets of Eduard PE for the nose, tail and cockpit. It should be fun.

I think comparing techniques is a great idea.

-Andrew

Anyone considering building the 1:48th B-24 kit should be aware that to restitute the correct fuselage cross-section, I have just found out I need to put a roughly 1:8th inch thick piece of plastic card spacer throughout the entire contact surface between the two fuselage halves (a touch less around the tail)... That is, a 1:8th inch (3 mm) spacer on the model itself, not the full size aircraft...

In keeping with this, the tailplanes are 4 mm (8 scale inches) short in span vs actual dimensions furnished by Iain Willie.

I know this being on my fourth kit of trying to convert this to a C-87 (keeping more and more of the puttied nose each time), said C-87 being a lot smoother than a bomber version, and thus much easier on blending out all of this (no bomb bays, turrets etc)...

Anyone interested in an accurate model of the B-24 should take measurements from the recent 1:72 Hasegawa kit: These will illustrate how off the 1:48th kit is, quite exactly and in almost every respect: It is probably one of the best kits Hasegawa, or anyone else, has ever done...

Gaston

Hmm thanks for the heads up Gaston i shall be looking into that .. Im going to be building my B-24 out of the box mines the Monogram kit with the Moby Dick decals i wasnt sure about them at first but they have grown on me now i just hope that they are ok and have no cracking in them like my B-17 ones did hmmm .. im also going to build it with the gear up for 2 reasons first i just dont have the shelf space for it and second i think it will look good hanging in my workshop next to my B-17 and P-51

When hanging it, maybe try to use the prop hubs center dome cut off alone, and put a very small tailwheel-type wheel tire behind each one to simulate a spinning spinner hub: I think it looks better than a hanging model with all the prop blades stopped...

Gaston

P.S: Bladeless spinning hubs work (at least for me) with most radials engine types, but tend not to look anywhere near as good on a smooth no-step nosed inline engines types like the P-51 or the Me-109G, the Me-109G being particularly ghastly if done that way, unfortunately...

G.

Hmmm thats an interesting idea iv never seen any done like that before .. I did have the idea of using clear discs with a slight yellowing to the edge to simulate the spinning blades . i did have the idea of actually having the props spinning using very small motors like the ones you find in a cell phone i was going to use the top turret with a variable switch attached to it from the inside so as you turn the turret the props would spin faster and faster but i couldnt find a switch that was suitable..

That is quite an idea! Adjusting the speed would allow having just the right visual effect depending on lighting....

Clear discs do make sense for the smooth-nosed inlines like the P-51 and Me-109G because, if done just without blades, they look exactly like some sort of weird rocket plane with no tail exhaust!

I do think radials with a spinning hub look acceptable because the mouth of the cowling usually suggest the turning motion quite well. A big hub with a shaded circumference might still work... The hub itself has to be very precisely done however, not on the cheap, and carefully painted with shaded circumference colours for the effect to work.

For me, who does not hang models, but may one day mount them on a stand, it is the way of dealing with inaccurate prop blades even with the model still displayed sitting on its gear...

Gaston

yeah im really taken with the idea but like i said finding a suitable switch to control it is my problem i thought of using an old volume switch off a radio but as yet i havent found one