Hi Chris,
I have just read your comment about the small swastikas, if you have applied a protective coat (Klear/Future) as suggested in the instructions you should be able to carefully remove them. If you want to go that route I will send you some re-sized swastikas at no cost
The rest of the build is looking very good
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Airfix 1/24 Fw190A5/F2
Posted: Tuesday, November 13, 2012 - 08:36 PM UTC
Posted: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 - 04:47 PM UTC
Hi Mal I forwent the clear cote as the paints are semi gloss Lacquer paints and pretty hard. The paints I've used for the markings are acrylic so I could in theory simply use thinners to remove them. Having said that I'm not really worried about them to much they still look stunning! So if you want to send them on please do but I'm okay as they are. I'm more than thrilled with the masks Mal they worked a treat! It is simply my learning how best to work with them that is the real problem. But I've got it sorted now so expect other orders for masks in the near future ...... in fact I've a 1/32nd scale FW190D-9 by Hasegawa (the one with the etch and white metal detail parts!) That I'll be needing some masks for!
I've just got to decide which aircraft I want to do! LOL and of course start another build log!
I've just got to decide which aircraft I want to do! LOL and of course start another build log!
Posted: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 - 09:47 PM UTC
Yes, once you try painted on markings there is no going back, especially in the larger scales
I'm fretting to start my own build of an Airfix 1/24 classic, the Stuka It will have the snake painted on the fuselage; my, ambitious, thoughts are to pose it rolling over into the dive, that would look stunning on my trade stand at Scale Modelworld next year How to do it though is the issue?
I look forward to your next build log
I'm fretting to start my own build of an Airfix 1/24 classic, the Stuka It will have the snake painted on the fuselage; my, ambitious, thoughts are to pose it rolling over into the dive, that would look stunning on my trade stand at Scale Modelworld next year How to do it though is the issue?
I look forward to your next build log
Posted: Wednesday, November 14, 2012 - 10:10 PM UTC
Funnily enough Mal I too have a large scale Airfix Stuka just begging to be built..... But mine will be from one of the Stuka Geschwaders that pummelled Greece and Crete or perhaps one from the battle of Britain that Al Deere put paid too. (At least I think he did ...if not then one of the other kiwis will have!) The possibilities are almost endless! And I will of course need some of your wonderful masks in due course.
Rolling over into a dive you say? Hmmmmm well if you made a display box for it with a clear acrylic back on it you could perhaps arrange a slot for the wing to go into, the wing would of course need strengthening to handle the weight a kit that size would exert. Something like the flying displays that AMT used for its flying Enterprise groups. See pic below for an example of what I mean.
Rolling over into a dive you say? Hmmmmm well if you made a display box for it with a clear acrylic back on it you could perhaps arrange a slot for the wing to go into, the wing would of course need strengthening to handle the weight a kit that size would exert. Something like the flying displays that AMT used for its flying Enterprise groups. See pic below for an example of what I mean.
Posted: Friday, November 16, 2012 - 08:13 PM UTC
Just give me a shout when you are ready for the masks Chris
A 1/24 Stuka rolling into the dive would be spectacular but will hide most of the markings so "in the dive" might be better? However that would mean crew and spinning prop so this is likely to be sat on it's wheels. If all goes well I might just put it on a base and enter it in the competition. I wouldn't expect it to win anything I am just interested in reactions
The clear acrylic back board, supporting the wing is a good idea, thanks
A 1/24 Stuka rolling into the dive would be spectacular but will hide most of the markings so "in the dive" might be better? However that would mean crew and spinning prop so this is likely to be sat on it's wheels. If all goes well I might just put it on a base and enter it in the competition. I wouldn't expect it to win anything I am just interested in reactions
The clear acrylic back board, supporting the wing is a good idea, thanks
Posted: Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 06:38 AM UTC
I'll let you know "what" and "when" as soon as I know Mal! More like when I finally settle on a paint scheme!
Your welcome for the idea! I know that Airfix sell or at least did sell motors for their 1/24th scale aircraft so the spinning prop would be relatively easy ..... how to supply power to it now there's the rub! I'd like to see the bomb crutch fully extended about to deliver it's deadly cargo .... I wonder if you could put audio with it as well? The sound of a screaming Stuka coming from .... well .... a screaming Stuka now wouldn't that be a show stopper?
And before I forget the last markings are on and the stencilling is under-way!
+
Your welcome for the idea! I know that Airfix sell or at least did sell motors for their 1/24th scale aircraft so the spinning prop would be relatively easy ..... how to supply power to it now there's the rub! I'd like to see the bomb crutch fully extended about to deliver it's deadly cargo .... I wonder if you could put audio with it as well? The sound of a screaming Stuka coming from .... well .... a screaming Stuka now wouldn't that be a show stopper?
And before I forget the last markings are on and the stencilling is under-way!
+
Posted: Friday, November 23, 2012 - 08:47 AM UTC
Hi all just thought I'd up date you on the stencilling which is going disastrously the adhesive on the stencils is actually pulling the paint off the kit rather than stencil sticking to the kit. Any ideas? I haven't tried a gloss or perhaps a matt varnish yet but that's where I'm going next. Any one had a similar problem with dry transfers? I had also thought of rubbing them onto clear decal film but that would seem to defeat the purpose of using dry transfers! Any ideas would be greatly welcomed.
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 05:07 PM UTC
I thought it time for a brief up date on where I'm at with the build after the issue I had with the dry transfers I've got some Testors decal paper and rubbing them on that seems to work well. So I'll be working out what I need to apply and placing them on the decal paper for addition to the built model. Does seem a little defeatist but it's about the only way to solve this particular issue. So I'm busy working my way through the decals and I'll post the finished results soon.
Posted: Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 02:17 PM UTC
Well this build has languished long enough time to finish it off and find a new home for it. I've recently re-discovered the decal film I got to put the dry transfer decals on to put on the model so later today when I return to my man cave I'll start on putting the finishing touches to my big bird Fw190, watch this space!
Posted: Monday, September 09, 2013 - 12:05 PM UTC
Well what a disaster that was! Try as I might I couldn't get the dry transfers onto my gloss decal paper! All I did was bruise the decal backing paper. Any one got any ideas as to where I can get water slide stencils for this aircraft? Or alternatively does any body have any advice about putting dry transfers onto gloss decal paper?
Jessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Posted: Monday, September 09, 2013 - 12:18 PM UTC
Spray it with a clear flat coat?
Posted: Monday, September 09, 2013 - 04:04 PM UTC
Hi Jess hadn't thought about coating the decal paper but that would certainly seem to be a possible solution. I'll spray the sheet this afternoon when I get home and hopefully I can try it out later this evening. I had thought about trying a coat of varnish on the kit but I've realized that it would quite probably pull the paint off the model along with the varnish. If it was all lacquers it would probably be fine but they're basically all acrylic so not as resilient as one might like.