Hi Guys and Gals,
A very quick question.
I'm wanting to weather some bare metal on a P-51 using Tamiya smoke and was wanting a rough guide of thinner to paint(I'll be brushing it on)its for landing gear and similar.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
weathering with Tamiya Smoke
chris1
Auckland, New Zealand
Joined: October 25, 2005
KitMaker: 949 posts
AeroScale: 493 posts
Joined: October 25, 2005
KitMaker: 949 posts
AeroScale: 493 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 04:21 PM UTC
sjhooker
Canada
Joined: May 13, 2012
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Joined: May 13, 2012
KitMaker: 2 posts
AeroScale: 1 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 08:48 PM UTC
Hi Chris,
What I've used in the past to dilute Tamiya Smoke is either Tamiya thinner or drug-store rubbing alcohol. I generally apply smoke over a coat of paint that isn't alcohol-based, like enamel or in the case of metallic finishes, Alclad lacquer. I've also had some success with Model Master Acryls, which provides a much tougher finish than standard Tamiya paints.
Using a small brush, I would apply the Tamiya Smoke to panel lines and in crevices in landing gear units. I'd let it dry for a while - you'll have to experiment with this on your own to discover what works for you - and then remove the excess with a lint-free cloth dampened with alcohol. I'd then carefully remove the excess smoke, continually turning the moistened cloth, until I achieved the effect I wanted.
The alcohol generally will not attack an oil or lacquer-based colour coat. This technique also works on Acryl paint, provided you aren't too aggressive when removing the excess smoke.
Deciding on the type of cloth to use is important since the smoke application tends to become rather sticky when it's being removed with the alcohol. I generally avoid pieces of actual cloth, preferring paper. The cheaper the better, generally - budget toilet paper leaves fewer particles behind, if any at all, than facial tissues for example. I've also had good results with non-woven medical sponges available at surgical supply outlets.
Hope this helps!
sjh
What I've used in the past to dilute Tamiya Smoke is either Tamiya thinner or drug-store rubbing alcohol. I generally apply smoke over a coat of paint that isn't alcohol-based, like enamel or in the case of metallic finishes, Alclad lacquer. I've also had some success with Model Master Acryls, which provides a much tougher finish than standard Tamiya paints.
Using a small brush, I would apply the Tamiya Smoke to panel lines and in crevices in landing gear units. I'd let it dry for a while - you'll have to experiment with this on your own to discover what works for you - and then remove the excess with a lint-free cloth dampened with alcohol. I'd then carefully remove the excess smoke, continually turning the moistened cloth, until I achieved the effect I wanted.
The alcohol generally will not attack an oil or lacquer-based colour coat. This technique also works on Acryl paint, provided you aren't too aggressive when removing the excess smoke.
Deciding on the type of cloth to use is important since the smoke application tends to become rather sticky when it's being removed with the alcohol. I generally avoid pieces of actual cloth, preferring paper. The cheaper the better, generally - budget toilet paper leaves fewer particles behind, if any at all, than facial tissues for example. I've also had good results with non-woven medical sponges available at surgical supply outlets.
Hope this helps!
sjh