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World War II: Soviet Union
Russian aircraft of WWII
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Eduard 1/48 Yak-3 Build
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2012 - 09:19 AM UTC
Hey all, Whilst some paint on the Mustang is drying, I figure I may as well start this little kit in 1/48 and as usuall, i will try my without an airbrush.
there is a lot of fuss online about the interior colour, can anyone shed any light on it for me? I use Tamiya usually.







Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2012 - 10:14 AM UTC
I used Tamiya's RLM02 (which is darker than other incarnations of RLM02) in mine.
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, July 15, 2012 - 10:18 AM UTC
Thanks Jessica, I think I have a pot of xf22 lying around somewhere.!
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, July 16, 2012 - 03:08 AM UTC
Im enjoying this one, the office is coming together nicely..

Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Monday, July 16, 2012 - 03:53 AM UTC
It's a really wonderful build. I think the only thing "wrong" with it is that Eduard made the oleo struts extended as if it was flying rather than sitting on the ground. IIRC you need to shorten them by a couple mm to make it sit correctly.
lespauljames
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Posted: Monday, July 16, 2012 - 04:40 AM UTC
hey Jessica, what are the oleo struts?? Ill be sure to fix it once i know what they are hehe!! J
Jessie_C
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Posted: Monday, July 16, 2012 - 04:46 AM UTC
They're the "shock absorber" part of the landing gear. Look at the silver parts of the struts in this picture. The scissor linkages allow them to slide up and down without twisting. You'll see that Eduard has provided photo etch parts for the oleo scissors. If you look on the instructions where they go, you'll see where the oleo is on your model.
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 06:53 AM UTC
thanks, ill makes sure to shorten them a bit when i get that far

A small update, seatbelts, cushion done, and i glossed the ( trim wheel)

Dimitar
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Sofiya, Bulgaria
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 04:12 AM UTC
Hello, James!
Very good work so far. Like the effect on the "red wheel" (sorry, don't the correct technical term). Could you share some details about pilot's seat cushion?
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 06:51 AM UTC
Dimitar, Thankyou! I am not sure on the term either or what it's for!, i think it may be a trim wheel. ?? the seat top half is the kit plastic and the bottom half is the kit etch. Painted with Lifecolour ral8020 lightbraun and now washed with ochre. ! I hope that is the information you wanted!

a small update here!!

Dimitar
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Sofiya, Bulgaria
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Posted: Saturday, July 21, 2012 - 08:11 PM UTC
Absolutely helpful!
Thanks, James!
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 06:11 AM UTC
no problem mate!

so its all sealed up now1

DougN1
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Georgia, United States
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Posted: Monday, July 23, 2012 - 07:29 AM UTC
Looks good James!

Doug
lespauljames
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 04:07 AM UTC
thanks Doug, much appreicated..



SOOO.... canopy on, masked perfect. sprayed it. and for some reason there is a BLOB of something in there.....; not happy with that, BUT im happy with how its coming along.



Jessie_C
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 04:24 AM UTC
It's Gremlins. They infest models as well as real aircraft. Is it possible to carefully pop the canopy off and remove the blob?

That paint job looks fantastic. Which markings do you have in mind for it? I couldn't resist the red nose.

Note how mine sits too nose-up? That's those overly long oleo stuts. I found out about the problem too late
stugiiif
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 05:00 AM UTC
Looks good james that random blob looks like peice of adhesive from masking tape or maybe an errant drop of canopy cement. Don't know if you use the the testor's stuff or not. I my self use 3M Tacky Glue. Chuck recomended it for PE and found it works great for canopies and windows.

I am curious about the interior colour as I could have sworn russian had a light blue interior, but not an expert. The RLM 02 looks good though. The wheels on the sidewalls are trim wheels. They are used in flight to adjust the elevators and aerolons to adjust level flight characteristics of the aircraft. So if you're trying to fly straight and level and the nose keeps climbing up you adjust the trim tabs on the evelator with the wheel and and it should make the aircraft hold the pitch for level flight.
bdanie6
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New Hampshire, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:02 AM UTC
Hi James, the build looks great. I am wondering if you had any fit issues with this particular kit. I just attempted my first Eduard kit and it was an unmitigated disaster. That was their FW-190 A6 kit. Not one piece of the fuselage fit with any other, so I am wondering how this one did.

Meanwhile, you have done an excellent job with this MiG and I await to see the finished aircraft.

Later
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:47 AM UTC
Hi Bruce,

The Yak is much easier to build than your Fw was; there's no fiddly interior bits to deal with. It's a very straightforward kit much like a Tamiya build. I'm sure you'd enjoy this one
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 09:59 AM UTC
Bruce, this flies together. the PE is easy, no fit issues, The fw190 is a lot more complex of a kit!.
I really reccomend their hellcat dual combo or on its own. those are awesome kits!!

Jessica, I have NO idea what markings i'm going to use. Haha.
I Really like the one with the star on the nose, but, unfortunately, thats too much masking, and to hard to brush for me!
I was thinking theme B with the yellow stripes and red spinner perhaps.
i sorted the struts, I hope they are level!!!

Steve, thanks! I knwo nothing of Russian Ac, so the RLM was better than the " clear yellow" the instructions suggested.!!!!
i never used to use canopy glue, but bout the revell stuff. as i get on with contacta quite well, although this seems a little blobby...

thanks everyone, hopeully this will be the first AC kit im realy pround of in 1.48.



lespauljames
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Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2012 - 08:20 AM UTC
the markings are almost complete... they need a lot of setting solution and i think my brush painted satin coat will not cover them up well

what colour should i use for chips? a darker grey?
also what sections werent metal!


J


Jessie_C
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Posted: Thursday, July 26, 2012 - 11:15 AM UTC
The wings and engine cowling panels were metal. I'm pretty sure the rest of the fuselage was plywood.
Dimitar
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Sofiya, Bulgaria
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Posted: Friday, July 27, 2012 - 03:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The wings and engine cowling panels were metal...



Nope. It was s wooden wonder. The wartime Yak-3 is made of plywood except for engine cowling and the panels below the canopy. It was Yak-3 VK-107A with the metal wings. Even after the war has ended the remaining Yak-3 VK-105 kept their wooden wings, although changed every two years of service - and the service itself ended in 1952.
lespauljames
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Posted: Friday, July 27, 2012 - 06:30 AM UTC
thanks for the info guys, i'll only chip items with rivets!!

weathrting WIP


Dimitar
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Sofiya, Bulgaria
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Posted: Friday, July 27, 2012 - 07:15 AM UTC
You hit the right spots! Nice chipping, pretty aggressive, the way I like it! Looks like a well worn airplane.
lespauljames
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 12:33 AM UTC
thanks Dimitar!!


O>K I ran into a BIG Snag the yellow decal stripes bubbled up, and ruind the tail section, so i removed the paint and dacals and resprayed it with my primer.
Would a Star be adequate for the tailplane? or sould i sub another units markings?


J
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