I'm convinced that the US Postal Service uses "Fragile" marked boxes as soccer balls!!! I just sent my friend one of my older builds, a 1/48 Monogram Jug very carefully packed in supporting soft foam blocks which were hot glued to the box, batting material to support the model from all angles and packing peanuts to keep everything secured so nothing moved in a slighly oversized box. Even if the box was inverted, or put on its side etc. nothing moved cuz the peanuts locked the model in place. My friend said both gears were torn off, and even the tires came off the mains! The right tail feather was also knocked loose. This kind of damage can only be caused by a deliberate act of vandalism. I have shipped models in the past using the same method and they arrived with no or very minor damage such as a tire coming off or a loose canopy. What packing methods have you guys used that have worked out for you?

Building a cradle that supports the model in the centre of the carton works well. Packing peanuts can transmit shocks to fragile parts like landing gear so you want the cradle to hold the strong portions of the model firmly enough so it won't move while keeping the fragile bits surrounded by air. Ideally the cradle material would interlock into a rigid structure that contacts all 6 sides of the carton with the model held gently but firmly in place.

Obviously this won't work if the baggage gorillas completely crush the carton, but it will protect the contents from normal shipping trauma.

Thanks Jessica for your imput. I tried your method a while back with a beautiful 1/32 FW190. Unfortunately, it arrived completely destroyed. It should have worked but like you said, looked like a gorilla handled it!

I have a method that starts with a basic cardboard box. About 1/3 the way up I use upholstery thread to weave a grid in the sides. Place the model suspended on the grid then add another thread grid above that. The model is trapped and suspended. This should allow for 2-3 inches area around the model where only the thread holds it. Styrafoam peanuts are ok to pour into the box to fill it. Then to the outer faces of the 1st box glue sections of 1/4 inch thick plywood. All sides top & bottom. The whole thing goes into a second cardboard box and the fit should be tight.

Ernie,

I've shipped over thirty 1/48 biplanes all over the world using my method and all have arrived intact.

The problem is isolating your model from all the handling it will endure during the shipping process. The important thing is making your model as free from the structure of the shipping container as possible.

The main medium I use consists of the plastic bags merchents provide to carry your purchases home from their stores and 2 boxes to contain the model for shipping. The smaller one contains the model and it needs about 2-3 inches of clearence all around your model edges to the sides of the box. I line the bottom and sides of the box with crumpled plastic bags. Then I place the model in a bag and put that into the middle of the lined box. I then add more crumpled bags on top and seal the box. You don't want to use too many bags and make the packing too tight, the idea is to let the model "float" inside all those bags. This way the model can adjust and slightly move when the box is roughly handled but is cushioned from impacting any of the walls of the box. The second box cushions the first and protects it from minor puncturing that may occur. I line the interior of the second box with more crumpled bags and place the first box in there, adding more bags to the top and then sealing that box as well.

You don't want your model to be tied to the structure of the box itself. If you do then it will be subjected to every bump and collision the box makes during the shipping process. By floating the model in a cushion of the crumpled bags it will be able to move and adjust to it's environment without impacting the walls of the box, which is when the damage will occur.

Good luck on your next shippment.
Dwayne

Thank you very much for all your suggestions. I will certainly try different methods.

Hi Ernie,

The key is keeping anything from being jostled or compressed onto your creation. Two successful methods for me follow.

1. Jackflash's method worked well for me once even without the peanuts, and with a difference. I used a very sturdy box and punched tiny holes in the sides. I threaded through paperclips bent apart into the shape of an "S". String rubberbands between them. I used 2-3 rubberbands per wing and as many as I could around the fuselage as possible. That allowed the model to jostle with rough handling without the arts coming into contact with anything.

The trouble is finding a box sturdy enough to not draw into itself; it seems to me that rubberbands dry out faster and become brittle sooner than they used to. And if you have rigging and antennaes, it is tricky to thread a rubberband under/around them. It can be done.

Then pack the box into a bigger box cushioned with Styrofoam.

2. I have moved across country about 5,000 miles in the past 5 years and here's how I now packed my models. Bag them! Yes, put them -- even airplanes with antennas -- into ziplock baggies. Try to suck out as much air as possible to snuggle the bag around the model -- be careful not to vacuum out too much or the bag can crush delicate parts. (See my 1/72 Pfalz D.XII boo-boo.)

Once the air is out, the model is secured inside the baggie but protected from the packing material. I use styrofoam peanuts. The peanuts fill in around the baggie and keep it from shifting, yet the baggie keeps the peanuts from wiggling into the voids of the model.

This method worked well on my 1/48 Brewster Buffalo, my 1/72 Pfalz (until I recently re-bagged it and sucked out too much air), 1/100 jets, and a host of other models with delicate parts.

Here's my video of unpacking a crate of them; notice the unbroken antennas, etc., and the post:

http://youtu.be/u7i9fGhdu8E

https://archive.kitmaker.net/forums/165391&page=1#1389276

Fred

Sent you a pm. Thanks for the baggie idea, will try that too.

I first wrap my models with plastic wrap, loosely if there are pointy objects that can be broken, like pitot tubes. For parts like the main gear, open canopies etc, I'll first wrap one layer of plactic wrap around the model, then add a handful of pillow stuffing to that area ,and then keep wrapping the model with the PW. I'll then fill half the box with pillow stuffing, place the model inside, and make sure the stuffing wraps over the model..then I'll fill the rest of the box with more stuffing. Ive been shipping models to my clients worldwide like this for years with no problems. The stuffing be found at Walmart, but I usually get the 5 lb box at Hobby Lobby.

Thanks Tim. I just picked up a big bag from Wallyworld. Need to go by Hobby Lobby to compare prices along with a 40% discount coupon.

yup, thats what I do,use the 40% coupon for the box..but it all depends on how many kits your shipping..if you plan to ship multiple kits ,then Id go for the box @ 40% off..if just one kit ,then the 1 small bag will be plenty. I just packed up a Stug III going to Indonesia this way..I wish I had thought to take some pics of how its packed, but forgot about it.