I have started to wok with a 1/48 scale Mustang P51D with a metalized spray paint. I worked well and looks grood for a first airplane in fifty years.
How can I seal the panit to apply decals, my matt finish clear coats says not to use over metal finishes. Will the decals stick to the metalized and polished paint like regular paint?
I have also noticed that some of the metalized paint is being transfered to the masked of engine cowl and tail rudder, will a clat coat stop this while I finish building the kit?
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Question on Metalized Paint and decals
AikinutNY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 683 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 683 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 03:08 AM UTC
vanize
Texas, United States
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 03:55 AM UTC
first thing we need to know is which type of metal paint you are using, as the answer will depend on that.
if you are using a buffing type, like testors metalizer buffing paint, then you will pretty much have to use their sealant.
if you are using their non buffing or using alclad, then you'll just want to put the deals straight on the metal paint.
anytime you put a clear coat over metal paint, you reduce its metal effect. but if you have a really good, smooth base coat, are careful about yuor deal application, and trim all the excess clear carrier film from the edges of you decals, you can get a very nice finish. but you won't be putting a clear coat over the decals to protect them - but if you use a good solvent and thoroughly dissolve the carrier film, the decals will be reasonably tough anyway.
if you want shiny decals to have a flat finish, then make a mask and spray flat clear only on the decals (or hand brush it on he decals - i recommend valleho matt finish for this because of how nicely it brushes). note if you are really good with the decal solvent, the decals will take on a sheen sort of like the surface they are sitting on.
if you are using a buffing type, like testors metalizer buffing paint, then you will pretty much have to use their sealant.
if you are using their non buffing or using alclad, then you'll just want to put the deals straight on the metal paint.
anytime you put a clear coat over metal paint, you reduce its metal effect. but if you have a really good, smooth base coat, are careful about yuor deal application, and trim all the excess clear carrier film from the edges of you decals, you can get a very nice finish. but you won't be putting a clear coat over the decals to protect them - but if you use a good solvent and thoroughly dissolve the carrier film, the decals will be reasonably tough anyway.
if you want shiny decals to have a flat finish, then make a mask and spray flat clear only on the decals (or hand brush it on he decals - i recommend valleho matt finish for this because of how nicely it brushes). note if you are really good with the decal solvent, the decals will take on a sheen sort of like the surface they are sitting on.
AikinutNY
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 683 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 683 posts
AeroScale: 25 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 06:23 AM UTC
It was the Testors buffing paint, so now I need to get their sealant.
Thanks very much for the quick lesson!
Thanks very much for the quick lesson!