Hi guys, I like to use clay to mask for a blended edge. Pretty common approach. What types/brands of clay do you guys use? Every kind I've tried leaves oily or waxy residue. If I try to clean it off the paintwork gets trashed. Recently I was doing an FW190 and this time it's basically ruined from the residue.
Anyway, input appreciated!!
General Aircraft
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clay or plasticine for masking
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raypalmer
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Joined: March 29, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, January 05, 2013 - 10:59 AM UTC
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Jessie_C
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Posted: Saturday, January 05, 2013 - 03:18 PM UTC
I like to use that sticky-tack stuff which is commonly used to hang posters. It sticky, but won't leave a residue behind.
Posted: Saturday, January 05, 2013 - 03:32 PM UTC
I use Silly Putty ,about $2 from Walmart.
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raypalmer
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Posted: Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 12:58 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I use Silly Putty ,about $2 from Walmart.
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I would not have thought of that. Very clever Mr. Tonge.
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stugiiif
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Posted: Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 02:56 PM UTC
Silly Putty here as well. but i do use stick task as well depends on what i need masked. Stick tack is better for a wrap around paint scheme.
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Mcleod
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Posted: Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 02:57 PM UTC
For those of you who don't know, you can go to an electrical wholesaler and buy a pound of Duct Seal for a few bucks. Its a malable clay that never hardens and has dozens of uses on the hobby desk.
I use it to hold small parts for photos etc. You can use it again and again.
I won't vouch for its use as a mask yet, but will try it out in future. 1 lb., is a lifetime supply.
I use it to hold small parts for photos etc. You can use it again and again.
I won't vouch for its use as a mask yet, but will try it out in future. 1 lb., is a lifetime supply.
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spaarndammer
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Posted: Sunday, January 06, 2013 - 08:26 PM UTC
I just have used Pritt Multitack (we call it posterbuddies), which is something like blue-tac or so. I have used it to demarcate the camo on my Airfix Canberra PR9.
You can easily roll sausages, which you can apply on the model. It also can be easily removed.
Unfortunately, there is a light shade left in the paint where the sausages were, so I suspect it bites a bit in the paint (Vallejo Air). I had heard such stories before, so it was actually not a surprise and probably I can cover it with a light coat of paint.
Jelger
You can easily roll sausages, which you can apply on the model. It also can be easily removed.
Unfortunately, there is a light shade left in the paint where the sausages were, so I suspect it bites a bit in the paint (Vallejo Air). I had heard such stories before, so it was actually not a surprise and probably I can cover it with a light coat of paint.
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Jelger
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drabslab
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 01:23 AM UTC
when i want a hard line seperating the colors I use Tamiya tape.
When I want a soft seperation i cut the form to be protected from the new paint out of a bit of paper, and fix it with tiny pieces of duoble sided tape; the paper then sits +/- 1 mm above the surface
When I want a soft seperation i cut the form to be protected from the new paint out of a bit of paper, and fix it with tiny pieces of duoble sided tape; the paper then sits +/- 1 mm above the surface
Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 11:07 PM UTC
I use Blu-Tac but always use the original stuff as it doesn't leave a residue unlike some cheaper store brands.
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james84
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 11:32 PM UTC
UHU Patafix white worked fine for me.
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