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General Aircraft
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OK Airplane guys....
jrnelson
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Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 11:34 AM UTC
I have my Tamiya 1/48 FW-190 A3... now what :-)

hehe I'm used to doing tanks, and I build the whole thing - then paint. I'm assuming it won't work the same way with a plane.

Do you guys completely finish the cockpit, then assemble the rest and paint? Or do you paint as you go? I would really like to avoid painting as I go, if I can - I want to assemble as much as possible before painting.

Also - do you guys glue the canopy to the plane then mask and paint or do you mask and paint that seperately?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new at this and want my FW-190 to look respectable :-)

Later-
Jeff
garrybeebe
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Oregon, United States
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 11:53 AM UTC
Hi Jeff, I paint the cockpit interior first , then attach the cockpit inside inside the fuslage and continue to build the rest of the craft. after the kit is built , then I mask off all the parts I dont want painted the main color(s) and have at it! Personaly I like to mask and paint the canopy seperate then glue it on with white glue (elmers) . it wont melt or fog the clear plastic. Basicly the same as painting a tank.

HTH,
Garry
bytepilot
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Karnataka, India / भारत
Joined: June 01, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 04:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have my Tamiya 1/48 FW-190 A3... now what :-)

hehe I'm used to doing tanks, and I build the whole thing - then paint. I'm assuming it won't work the same way with a plane.

Do you guys completely finish the cockpit, then assemble the rest and paint? Or do you paint as you go? I would really like to avoid painting as I go, if I can - I want to assemble as much as possible before painting.

Also - do you guys glue the canopy to the plane then mask and paint or do you mask and paint that seperately?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new at this and want my FW-190 to look respectable :-)


Hi Jeff,

The learning curve is essentially the same. However, I guess you'd have most of the fiddly bits n'bobs only in the cockpit most o the time for A/c modelling .

Yes, as afar as A/c's go, you'll have to paint the cockpit areas first and then carry on with the rest. Trust me, most of the problems will come in this area itself; the rest of the plane becomes a breeze once the cockpit is done and in place. Also, the first thing people look at in a model is the cockpit, it's something to do with the canopy, I guess !

And as for canopies, mask it with tape, attach it in place with Blu-Tak(be sure to close all gaps, or paint will get into that beautiful cockpit, and spray away. Once done, remove the canopy, take off the masks, and attach it finally using white glue or Testors WIndow pane solution. That shoul get you a beautiful canopy. For even better results and shine on your canopies, dip it in Future first, and allow to dry for a day or two. There's an article by Mal Mayfield(Holdfast) in the Features section which tells you how to do this...

HTH,
BP.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, November 30, 2003 - 07:14 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I want to assemble as much as possible before painting.



Hi Jeff

I know it's the norm to virtually finish an armour kit before painting, but many a/c modellers wait until after the main painting before attaching delicate external parts.

This is to avoid difficult masking and to prevent them being damaged in handling.

Good luck with your '190! :-)

Rowan
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2003 - 08:03 AM UTC
:-) Tamiya 1/48 FW-190 A3, Nice kit :-) As the others have said, paint the cockpit parts first (RLM 66, a dark grey, is the correct colour). Then close the fuselage halves around it. I always mask the canopy parts first and paint the cockpit colour on the outside of the frames, (it shows on the inside). I will normally attatch the fixed parts before painting (to give a better appearance) I generally use liquid glue for this, but if there is a danger of maring the clear parts use white woodworkers glue. If the fixed parts need any filling I will use normal filler or, probably more often, white glue. If you are going to have the canopy closed fix the sliding part as well. This masks the cockpit and you match up the camoflage. If you want the canopy open you could glue it in position as before, with white glue, to be removed after painting and weathering. You could also mask the cockpit openning with damp tissue and paint the sliding canopy off the model. If you do this make sure you mask the inside of the canopy, if you are spraying. Attache all main pieces and parts that can't get knocked off, air scoops and the like, but not the "dangley" bits, antenna, undercarriage legs, doors, props and the like. eliminate seams and paint. There are far more decals on an aircraft model than an AFV, I've just about finished an article on that subject, should have it in before you get to that stage. Then weather (if you want) then the dangley bits are last.
Keep us posted on your progress and don't hesitate to ask if you get stuck :-) Looking forward to seeing your 190 :-) Oh, nearly forgot, are you happy with the colours of you 190?
Mal
jrnelson
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Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2003 - 11:36 AM UTC
Great Info guys - THANKS Just the kind of info I was hoping to get!

Holdfast-

Colors? hehe, that was gonna be my next question. Obviously I have the Tamiya mixes they call for in the instructions -but................... I want to use enamels if at all possible. I'm trying to get away from using Tamiya paints... too many gritty finishes no matter what I do to correct the problem. I have access to ModelMaster enamels - you wouldn't happen to know what the correct paints would be to use in this line would you :-)

Thanks again-
Jeff
TwistedFate
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2003 - 01:24 PM UTC
Jeff, check the instructions. Somewhere on it there should be a section "Painting the FW-190" It should either list the RLM #'s or the German names of the colors they want you to mix. MM paints come labled with both RLM and color names on them. Note: if it calls for RLM 71 Dunkelgrun this is a near perfect match for MM Olive Drab if you have it already.
SS-74
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Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
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Posted: Monday, December 01, 2003 - 02:54 PM UTC
Lord nelson,

Let me chip in on this. As an armor modeler as well as a plane builder. You need to know the following:

1. Planes are more fun
2. Planes are easy
3. yes, you need to do/paint the cockpit first, but that's about the only difference between a plane and a tank. And if you can make that Bison work, the chance is there is no plane kits out there that will be diffcult for you.
4. Decals, be prepared for a verie rude surprise, especially when you are applying decal No. 103 "No Step". THERE ARE LOTS OF DECALS!!!!! and some of them tiny. I don't know about the FW190 from Tamiya, but in their BF109 kit they have those tiny numbers to be applied to each panel on the side.

But once you done a plane you would love it.
jrnelson
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Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 - 05:26 AM UTC
Thanks Lord SS -

I appreciate your input on this as well. You know that I have been pestering you in the chat about planes lately :-)

Anyway - I don't forsee giving up armor anytime soon, just want to add to my bag-o-tricks if you know what I mean. I like tanks too much... hehe However, this plane thingy does look interesting :-)

Later-
Jeff
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 - 09:00 AM UTC
Jeff,
Main colours for the airframe:
Undersurfaces (Tamiya paint mix A) is RLM 76, Lichtblau (light blue)
Uppersurfaces (Tamiya paint mix B) is RLM 74, Graugrun (grey grren)
Uppersurfaces (Tamiya paint mix C) is RLM 75, Grauviolett (grey violett)
Tamiya's instructions are confusing, their paint mixes wouldn't give the correct colours, I'm sure the ModelMaster enamels range would be good matches but I don't know the colour codes. As Tim says, though they come labled with the RLM colour number or name.
Other bits:
Undercarriage bays, gear legs, inside gear doors, all RLM 02 Grau (grey) This is actually a greeny colour.
Wheels, Gloss black.
Propeller blades, RLM 70 Schwarzgrun (black green)
Propeller spinner, decal options in the kit this is also RLM 70. it can be many veriations and can have spirals.
The yellow referd to in the kit marking guide (XF-3) is RLM 04 Gelb (yellow (might mean gold?))
HTH
Mal
jrnelson
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Iowa, United States
Joined: May 23, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 - 11:05 AM UTC
Holdfast - Thanks for the paint rundown.... exactly what I needed there :-) I appreciate the time it took for you to give such a comprehensive answer - awesome!

Lord SS - I just took a look at the decal sheet..... Holy Mother ! Ummmm there look to be quite a few of those microscopic little "dots".. hehe Does anybody make a dry transfer set for the FW-190 A3 I could use instead of the waterslide decals in the kit? I use transfers almost exclusively on my tanks now, and would like to avoid the time and aggravation of the slidey decals on the plane. Especially since there are about 50 of them.... and planes are so "naked". I can't get rid of the decal film under a coat of mud and grime.... lol

Lord Nelson
TwistedFate
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Virginia, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 - 11:38 AM UTC
Jeff, you don't have to use all of those unless you are doing a new aircraft. They were often missing after field repairs and quick paint jobs.
shonen_red
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Joined: February 20, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 - 11:01 PM UTC
Here's how I do mine. I do the cockpit first. Then do the body of the plane.

For the canopy, if it is just a clear part (like my Revell 1/72 F-22) I put it later. But if it's framed (like my Airfix 1/48 Sea Harrier) I put it in then mask the canopy. Paint the whole body as is. Then now do detailing, assemble the weapons and gears. Hope it helps.
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