I have two of the Tamiya "silver plated" kits, the Thunderbird F-84G and MiG-15bis. My question is: Does anyone know how to remove the silver plating without damaging the plastic so I can use my own bare metal method? I have enough trouble with seams without trying not to damage the finish too!

Thanks for any help.

Michael

Michael, I use to build cars every so often that always came with a "million" chrome plated parts. I just soaked the parts in plain old bleach. Soak, rinse, repeat. Use of a old toothbrush will get those last spots cleaned.
Joel

Joel,

Thanks! Did you use straight bleach or did you dilute it at all?

Michael

Brake fluid and a plastic bag works as well.

Michael, straight from the bottle. The Beach in most containers are already quite diluted with plain tap water.
Joel

Thanks guys! So neither the brake fluid or the bleach will hurt the plastic?

So far I gotta say the bleach wins on cost anyway. Does brake fluid work better?

Michael

I'd go with the bleach; brake fluid has been known on occasion to eat plastic. Oven cleaner (which also removes paint quite well) can also work, but you need to protect your lungs while using it.

Go with the Bleach as I suggested. It's cheap (buy the store brand as they're all the same).

Joel

Michael,
I've used bleach, brake fluid, Easy Off oven cleaner, and Castrol Cleaner (the name slips my mind but it comes in a gallon jug trimmed in green-- maybe "super clean"?)to remove paint and chrome from models. But, on "chromed" models, you'll need to soak the surface again after you remove the chrome because there is a layer of varnish found beneath the "chrome" which the chrome adheres to. Be advised though, the silver plated models from Tamiya are not really "chromed"-- they are actually painted with a lacquer paint similar to Gunze Mr. Color. As far as seams go, I recently built the F84, and learned Tamiya liquid cement, if used sparingly, works without damaging the silver surface. I used masking tape to isolate and mask the seams, carefully sanded, masked off the nearest panel lines, and used Alclad black primer and Alclad paint to paint over the panels bisected by seams. Alclad will paint over the Tamiya silver paint without a problem.
VR, Russ Bucy

Russ, Chrome model parts are not painted with model paints, that's why you need to remove it with Bleach, brake fluid, oven cleaner, etc. I'm sure it's not what we commonly refer to as "chromed", but the parts go through a similar process and are negatively charged to start the process as in Chroming. I've air brushed stripped plastic parts with the glossy surface and never had any issues with the paint adhering to the surface. Back then I used model enamels.

I believe the product you were referring to is: Castrol Super-Clean.

Joel

Hmmm...

Sounds like the plan is to try a part in bleach to see how it works and, if necessary, work my way up to brake fluid and Castrol Super-Clean. I really do want to strip the kits rather than try to paint over it, I just don't think I'd be able to be as delicate as Russ.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!

Michael

Michael,
Depending on the thickness of the plating, is how long it will take. Use an old toothbrush to work any areas that just won't come clean. Rinse, air dry, and you're ready to paint. There is absolutely no reason to buy brake fluid, or Castrol Super-Clean. The Bleach is all you will ever need.

Paint doesn't adhere to the chrome surface very well, and flakes off easily because it's so smooth. Also, glue wont' stick to it.

Joel

Joel,
I build classic Jo-han and AMT kits. What I was trying to say is the Tamiya "silver plated" Thunderbird F84 and their new "silver plated" edition of the 1/32 Mustang don't really seem to be "chromed" in the traditional sense. These two kits have lower reflectivity, the finish is much more like paint, and there doesn't seem to be a chrome "carrier" between the plastic and the finish as in other "chromed" kits. What I have noticed is the plastic is different-- it's white. Perhaps they infuse the plastic directly with the copper/bronze compound that the metallic finish adheres to, and that's what gives the thin "paint" like effect. Tamiya thinner will remove the finish if applied liberally. While building the F84,I found the finish has very little reaction with Tamiya liquid cement, which seems to just "fog" the surface of the plating/painting, and can be polished off along the seams. Like chrome or paint, the finish on both kits can be removed with any of the chemicals listed in the posts above. On other kits two treatments are often required (one to remove the "chrome" the second to remove the "carrier") but on the Tamiya F84, I only needed one treatment of brake fluid on the landing gear and other detail parts(by the way, break fluid does not always work on chrome parts, unless they soak for days). I don't know what process Tamiya uses to "silver plate" their kits, but the finish of the Mustang and F84 look very similar in preparation to their 1/20th line of race car metal rims which are pre-painted, not chromed. Frankly for "chromed" parts that demand high reflectivity (bumpers, struts etc.) I prefer Alclad Chrome, and I strip all my automotive models down and re-paint. But, since the Tamiya F84 doesn't look like chrome, I just carefully sanded the seams and repainted it with Alclad aluminum and Mr. Color silver in selected areas -- they match the silver plated finish perfectly.
VR, Russ

Hi Michael

I just use ordinary window cleaner the type that comes in plastic spray bottles. Pour it into a tub then drop in the parts you want stripped swill it round a bit. you can see the plating come off.

Dennis, for the window cleaner to work, it has to contain ammonia. That's what actually removes the plating from the plastic.

Joel

Thanks for the ammonia prompt.I find that it is cheaper than bleach or oven cleaner. The one I use if needed is ASDA's own in the U.K.