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Clear coat finish help...
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lfetz145
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 01:13 PM UTC
So far I have only built three models. On all of these, the clear coat finish that I put on has left the paint looking cracked and rough. I have used three different brands of clear coat each time, does anyone have any suggestions on what type or brand to use? I also haven't used primer on any of my paints, could that be an issue? Thanks!
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Jessie_C
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 01:57 PM UTC
Welcome to Aeroscale, Logan! Is it the clear coat which is cracking, or the paint underneath? If it's the clear coat, that's likely because the paint beneath it was still not completely cured. This is especially important with acryllic paints (and even more so if you brush paint), because they shrink as they cure. You need to leave the paint for at least a week after it looks dry before you put a clear coat on.
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Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 02:50 PM UTC
Logan,
Welcome to Aeroscale, you're going to really like it here.
Jessica pretty much identified the main cause for clearcoat cracking.
Still, we really need more information. Are you applying the color coats with a airbrush, brush, or rattle can? And which type and brand of paint are you using?
Joel
Welcome to Aeroscale, you're going to really like it here.
Jessica pretty much identified the main cause for clearcoat cracking.
Still, we really need more information. Are you applying the color coats with a airbrush, brush, or rattle can? And which type and brand of paint are you using?
Joel
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raypalmer
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Posted: Saturday, May 17, 2014 - 02:51 PM UTC
Which clearcoats have you used? Varathane and other hardware store choices are pretty much guaranteed to cause damage.
The cheapest option (although not my cup of tea) is Future floor Polish.
The cheapest option (although not my cup of tea) is Future floor Polish.
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Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2014 - 02:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Which clearcoats have you used? Varathane and other hardware store choices are pretty much guaranteed to cause damage.
The cheapest option (although not my cup of tea) is Future floor Polish.
Richard,
I've been a life long user of Testors Glosscoat (lacquer based), but have been experimenting with Future/Pledge more and more. Thanks to Chuck from ARC/LSP forums, I now have it to the point where I can get a glass like finish using an airbrush.
For all clear gloss finishes you need to polish the paint surface especially if it's a flat paint. The nooks and crannies just won't allow any Glosscoat to smoothly flow over the surface unless the prep work is done.
I airbrush the Pledge on with a flow air pressure of approx. 12-15 psi with the Pledge cut with Windex-D 75/25. A few tack coats, then a few heavier coats. I let that dry for a few hours. Then I air brush on a thin coat of Pledge cut 50/50 @ 8-10 psi. This time I only apply it to a level surface, and slowly rotate the model so the Pledge doesn't run.
Joel
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lfetz145
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Posted: Sunday, May 18, 2014 - 04:12 AM UTC
I don't have an airbrush yet, so I've been using a combination of rattle cans and brushes. Thanks for your advice, everyone!
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